Bulder Quick-Screw 5" Gutter Hangers - Heavy Duty Hidden Gutter Brackets with Pre-Assembled Inserted Gutter Screws - Rain Gutter Parts and Accessories to Fix or Repair Sagging Rain Gutters

Why I Reached for These Hangers

My 5-inch K-style aluminum gutters had started to sag in predictable spots: over porch spans where snow slid off the roof, and at a downspout run that was under-supported from the start. They were originally hung with old spike-and-ferrule hardware that had loosened over time. I wanted a hidden hanger that would tighten the system, resist seasonal loads, and be fast to install without fussy parts. That led me to the Quick-Screw hangers from Bulder.

I installed a 50-pack across two elevations, replacing spikes and adding support where the pitch had flattened. The short version: they’re sturdy, thoughtfully designed, and significantly easier to drive and seat than many big-box alternatives I’ve used.

Design and Build

There are two things about the Quick-Screw hangers that stand out in hand:

• The body has stiffening bends along the sides, which translates into less flex when you tighten down. That added rigidity matters when you’re trying to lift a sagged section and want the hanger to hold shape rather than oil-can the gutter lip.
• The screws come pre-assembled and feature a small dimple near the head that helps the nut driver stay engaged. It’s a subtle change that reduces cam-out, especially at awkward angles.

Everything is sized for 5-inch aluminum K-style gutters. The hook sits below the front lip once seated, so the hangers are effectively invisible from the ground. The finish on mine was clean, with no burrs to snag on the bead of the gutter. While the manufacturer doesn’t tout a stainless alloy, the coating appears suitable for typical climates; in coastal environments I’d still consider a stainless option if you’re fighting salt air.

These aren’t meant for vinyl/plastic gutters, and they won’t fit 6-inch or half-round profiles. On older gutters that have been stretched or deformed at the bead from years of spikes, I did find one section where the engagement was a little shallow. It still held, but it’s worth inspecting those areas and, if needed, replacing the affected section of gutter or adding a hanger on fresh material.

Installation Experience

Install was refreshingly straightforward. The pre-assembled screws save real time—no fumbling to thread hardware while you balance on a ladder. Here’s the process that worked well for me:

• Tools: 1/4-inch nut driver on a cordless drill, magnetic tip preferred. I kept a right-angle driver handy for tight eaves.
• Prep: Cleaned the gutters, re-established pitch using a string line and a temporary support strap in the worst sag. Marked rafter tail locations where possible.
• Placement: I spaced the hangers at 24 inches on center on standard runs and tightened spacing to 18 inches near inside corners and under roof valleys where ice formation is common.
• Seating: Hook the hanger under the front bead, pivot it level, then drive the screw through the back of the gutter into solid wood. The screws bit cleanly and pulled the gutter snug without deforming the lip. The “retention dimple” truly did reduce slipping of the nut driver—less chatter, fewer rounded heads.

The spec’d 1-3/8-inch penetration was suitable for both straight and angled fascia on my home. On a mildly angled fascia, I didn’t need shims; the screw still found solid meat in the rafter tail. I pre-drilled only in a couple of spots where the fascia was extremely dry and prone to splitting. Otherwise, the threads cut cleanly.

One thoughtful detail: because the hanger body is stiff, you can lift a sagged section incrementally by tightening to tension without crushing the gutter wall. It gave me just enough control to correct the pitch by a few degrees without introducing a kink.

Performance In Use

After installation, the difference was immediate. The gutter lines straightened up, and the downspout runs regained proper fall. In the first heavy rain, I had no overtopping in the formerly troublesome sections. Water tracked to the downspouts cleanly instead of sheeting behind the gutter. On a late spring, wet snow event, nothing moved or loosened.

Because the hangers sit below the lip, they didn’t interfere with my perforated aluminum gutter covers. If your cover clips directly onto the front bead, you should still be fine, but double-check the vertical clearance; the profile here keeps a low height under the lip, which was compatible with the two styles I tested.

Compared to spike-and-ferrule setups, these are a dramatic improvement. There’s no seasonal “walk out” of hardware, and the hidden look is cleaner. Against other hidden hangers I’ve used, the biggest upgrade is how well the screw drives in less-than-ideal positions. Fewer slips, fewer damaged heads, and less frustration on the ladder.

Compatibility and Limitations

• Best for: 5-inch aluminum K-style gutters on either straight or angled fascia.
• Not for: Vinyl/plastic gutters, 6-inch systems, or half-round profiles.
• Substrate: Aim for rafter tails or solid framing behind the fascia. If you’re mounting into thin fascia only, consider backing with blocking.
• Deformed beads: Severely stretched front beads from old spikes may not give a perfect grab. In those stretches, add a hanger on an unaffected area or replace the damaged section.
• Corrosion: The hardware appears coated steel. In high-salt or industrial environments, you may want stainless hardware to maximize longevity.

Tips for Best Results

• Establish pitch first. Use a string line from high point to outlet and pick a modest fall—about 1/4 inch per 10 feet is sufficient.
• Clear debris and wash the gutter before installation; sag can be masked by buildup.
• Hit structure. Use a stud finder or look for nail lines to find rafter tails. You’ll feel a solid bite when you’re in good wood.
• Tighten spacing in high-load zones: under roof valleys, long overhangs, and areas prone to ice.
• Don’t overtighten. Let the hanger body and its stiffness do the lifting; stop once the gutter is snug and the pitch is set.
• Check guard compatibility. Most leaf guards will clear these hangers, but confirm with your specific model.

Value and Packaging

Buying in a 50-pack made sense for a full-house refresh. The per-hanger cost was meaningfully lower than what I’ve paid at big-box stores, and every hanger in my box had a properly seated screw—no mismatched hardware, no missing pieces. Given the stiffness and the ease of installation, the time saved on the ladder is a real part of the value equation.

What I’d Improve

• Material disclosure. I’d like clear labeling on the alloy/coating for those planning installs in coastal regions.
• Optional longer screws. While the included fastener length worked for my typical fascia, offering a pack with slightly longer screws would help on thicker build-ups or when you want deeper engagement into rafter tails.
• A 6-inch version. Many homes use 6-inch K-style gutters; having the same design scaled up would be welcome.

None of these are deal-breakers, but they’re worth noting depending on your project.

Bottom Line

The Quick-Screw hangers are a practical, well-executed upgrade for 5-inch aluminum gutters. They install fast with a 1/4-inch nut driver, the screw engagement is notably better than average, and the rigid body lets you correct sag without distorting the gutter. After swapping out my old spikes and tightening the spacing, I regained proper pitch, eliminated overflow at problem spots, and finished with a cleaner look.

Recommendation: I recommend these for anyone rehabbing 5-inch aluminum gutters or starting a fresh install and wanting a hidden, sturdy, DIY-friendly hanger. They’re cost-effective, save time on installation, and deliver the stiffness needed to keep gutters straight through heavy rain and winter loads. If you’re on vinyl or in a harsh coastal environment, look for a material match that suits those conditions; otherwise, these are a solid choice that should keep your gutters where they belong.