ECUDIS 1/8-IP Lighting Loops with Link Buckle Connectors for Light Fixture Chandelier Chain Extension, Pack of 2

Why I reached for these lighting loops

I needed a straightforward way to convert a ceiling light to a chain-hung fixture and repair a tired loop on another chandelier. Rather than replace whole canopies or hunt for random parts, I tried the ECUDIS lighting loops—a simple, two-pack kit with standard 1/8-IP threading, nickel finish, and a claimed 50 lb load rating. It’s the kind of small hardware set you don’t think much about until you need it, and then you want it to be reliable, compatible, and easy to use. In practice, this kit checks most of those boxes, with a couple of caveats worth knowing before you climb the ladder.

What’s in the kit and how it’s built

The kit includes:
- Two nickel-finish lighting loops with 1/8-IP threads
- Two short 1/8-IP threaded pipes (nipples)
- Two 1-inch thread inserts
- Two 4 mm chain link connectors

The loops themselves are iron with a smooth, even nickel coating. The finish is clean—no rough casting seams or sharp edges—and it matches most brushed or satin nickel fixtures closely enough for mixed-and-matched repairs. The nickel plating provides decent corrosion resistance for indoor use. I wouldn’t treat it as outdoor hardware, but it’s perfectly at home in most living areas, hallways, or kitchens.

The headline spec is the 50 lb support rating. I tested one loop with a roughly 18 lb chandelier and another with a lighter pendant. There was no flex, no finish damage from the chain, and the threaded interface held snugly. The 4 mm quick links are small, but they’re adequate for typical fixture chain. If you’re using oversized decorative chain, you may need a larger connector.

A quick note on threading (and a common pitfall)

This is important: 1/8-IP is a lamp/fixture standard, not plumbing pipe thread. The actual size is 3/8"-27 (often called “lamp thread” or “lamp pipe”). If you try to mate this with 1/8" NPT fittings, it won’t work. If you’re replacing a loop on a standard crossbar or canopy nipple from common lighting hardware, you’re in the right world. If you’re mixing in parts from plumbing or the wrong electrical standard, you’ll fight the threads.

I checked the looping threads against several crossbars and couplers in my shop—all 3/8"-27—and had solid engagement. If you’re unsure what you have, a quick check with a known lamp-thread nut or a crossbar labeled 1/8-IP will save you a return trip.

Installation: genuinely fast, with one likely extra

On a typical conversion or loop replacement, the process is:
1. Kill power at the breaker and pull the canopy down from the junction box.
2. If converting to chain-hung, remove the rigid stem or failed loop.
3. Thread your fixture cord through the ECUDIS loop (there’s enough clearance), then through your canopy as needed.
4. Thread the loop onto a 1/8-IP nipple and secure it to the crossbar. Here’s the part I recommend: use a 3/8"-27 locknut to jam the nipple in place or to lock the loop’s position. It wasn’t included in my kit, and it’s the one piece I’d consider essential for a rock-solid install.
5. Attach your chain to the loop using the included 4 mm quick link, route the cord through the chain, and complete wiring.

On my first install, the included short nipple didn’t reach far enough through a deeper canopy to get the locknut on comfortably. I swapped it for a 1.5" 1/8-IP nipple I had on hand. On a shallower canopy with a standard crossbar, the included length was fine. So plan for the possibility that you’ll want a longer nipple depending on canopy depth and box geometry.

With the right nipple length and a locknut, the install takes under ten minutes once you’re into the canopy. The loop bore is generous enough to pass a standard two-conductor fixture cord plus a ground without wrestling, and the nickel finish didn’t mar when I snugged the quick link closed.

Day-to-day use and durability

After installation, the loops behaved exactly as they should: they disappear visually and quietly carry the load. The finish blends with brushed nickel chain nicely. I deliberately tested for squeak and scratch by pivoting the chain under load—no coating flaked, and there was no gritty feel like you sometimes get with cheap plating. Threads have held tight over several weeks; I added a tiny dab of thread locker on one install as a belt-and-suspenders step because I didn’t have a locknut in that location.

The 50 lb rating is generous for most residential fixtures, but I’d avoid pushing it to the limit. Weight ratings assume proper installation, a sound crossbar anchored to the box, and compatible chain hardware. If you’re hanging something approaching that weight, use appropriately rated chain, a beefy quick link (potentially larger than the included 4 mm), and verify the mounting box is designed for ceiling fan or heavy fixture loads.

Compatibility and fit and finish notes

• Thread standard: 1/8-IP (3/8"-27). Great with standard lighting hardware. Not compatible with NPT.
• Chain connectors: 4 mm quick links are fine for typical chain. If you’re working with larger decorative links, you’ll want bigger connectors.
• Finish matching: matches brushed/satin nickel close enough for most installs. It’s not a mirror-polish chrome; it’s the subdued nickel you expect on modern fixtures.
• Color options: if you’re trying to blend with oil-rubbed bronze, black, or antique brass, you’ll need to paint or source a different finish. As a nickel option, it’s solid.
• Indoor use: plating resists corrosion, but the underlying metal is iron. I’d keep it to dry or mildly humid spaces.

What I’d change

• Include locknuts. A pair of 3/8"-27 jam nuts would turn this into a complete mini-kit for nearly any canopy situation.
• Offer a longer nipple. The included short threaded pieces are handy but won’t reach through deeper canopies or oddly spaced crossbars.
• Expand finish options. A black and an antique brass version would cover most fixture refreshes without painting.

None of these are deal-breakers, but they’re worth planning around.

Who this is for

• DIYers converting a flush or semi-flush fixture to a chain-hung setup
• Anyone replacing a broken or ugly loop on a chandelier or pendant
• Landlords and maintenance pros who want a compact kit for quick fixes
• Homeowners hanging baskets or lightweight pots from existing hooks where a cleaner loop and quick link are helpful

If you’re dealing with a designer fixture that uses proprietary hardware or non-standard threads, check specs first. For most mainstream fixtures, these loops feel like the right kind of “standard.”

Practical tips from my installs

• Keep a small assortment of 1/8-IP nipples (1", 1.5", 2") and a few 3/8"-27 locknuts on hand. It eliminates 90% of the “this doesn’t quite reach” headaches.
• Pre-thread the cord through the loop and canopy before you climb the ladder. It saves time and frustration overhead.
• If you don’t have a locknut, a tiny drop of medium thread locker on the loop threads helps prevent loosening.
• Always verify the junction box and crossbar are rated for the fixture’s weight. The loop is only one link in the chain.

The bottom line

The ECUDIS lighting loops are exactly what I want from small fixture hardware: standard threads, a clean finish, solid load capacity, and straightforward installation. They made quick work of a conversion to chain-hung and a loop replacement on a chandelier, and they’ve stayed put without fuss. The omissions—no locknuts and a nipple length that won’t solve every canopy depth—are easy to work around if you keep basic lamp hardware in your kit.

Recommendation: I recommend these lighting loops for anyone tackling routine light fixture conversions or repairs in nickel-finished spaces. They’re sturdy, properly threaded for standard lighting hardware, and easy to install. Just budget for a couple of 3/8"-27 locknuts and, depending on your canopy, a longer 1/8-IP nipple to make the install truly plug-and-play.