S&T INC. Insect Traps, 30 Count, Glue Traps for Brown Recluse, Hobo Spiders, Black Widows, Use in Home, Basement or Garage, or Utility Rooms for Pest Control

A straightforward, low-mess way to monitor and reduce crawling pests

I prefer simple, low-mess pest control, and glue traps are about as simple as it gets. The S&T glue traps are a no-frills, non-toxic option that’s easy to deploy around the house, garage, and basement. After several weeks of use across a few problem areas, I came away impressed by how quietly effective they can be—provided you place them thoughtfully and give them time to work.

Design and setup

These traps arrive as flat, perforated sheets that fold into a small “tent.” Assembly is quick:

• Fold along the pre-scored lines to form the tent shape.
• Peel the backing to expose the adhesive.
• Secure the tab to lock the tent closed.

My best setup tip: fold first, then peel. Doing it in that order keeps your fingers out of the glue and makes alignment easier. The cardboard is thicker than most budget traps and holds its shape well, so the tent doesn’t sag or collapse after a week on the floor. The finished traps are compact and low profile—easy to tuck along a baseboard or under a sofa—while the enclosed top helps keep dust and pet hair from immediately ruining the adhesive.

The glue sits on the interior floor of the tent, not smeared on the sides, which reduces the chances of incidental contact. There’s no odor, no powders, and no attractant gel to deal with. Each trap has a small spot to note the date and location; I actually used it, and it helped me rotate placements systematically.

Placement strategy matters more than you think

Glue traps are passive; they don’t lure insects from across the room. Results hinge on putting them directly in the travel paths pests already use. Here’s what worked best for me:

• Along baseboards and behind furniture, especially where I’ve seen webs or droppings.
• Near utility penetrations (water heater, furnace closet, under sinks).
• At the edges of storage areas where boxes meet walls.
• Beneath the lip of stair treads and along wall-floor junctions in the basement.

I started by mapping out a dozen traps across the basement and first-floor perimeter, then added a few in bathrooms and under the kitchen sink. Over two to three nights, the patterns became clear—certain stretches of baseboard consistently caught spiders and silverfish, while other spots stayed empty. I consolidated traps to the hot zones and got better yield without using more traps.

If you’re dealing with spiders specifically, keep traps tight to the wall with the opening parallel to the baseboard. Spiders tend to follow edges, and this orientation caught more than placing them “face out” into the room.

Performance in everyday use

Over several weeks, the traps captured a variety of crawling insects—house spiders of various sizes, silverfish, a few ants, and the occasional wandering beetle. In my basement, where spiders were the main concern, I saw steady captures near storage shelves and the furnace closet, and very little in open floor areas. That tracks with spider behavior: they hug edges and prefer cover.

A few observations:

• The glue is strong. Even larger spiders stayed put, and I didn’t encounter the partial escapes I’ve seen with cheaper formulations.
• Adhesive life is solid. In higher-dust locations (unfinished basement), the traps remained tacky for a couple of weeks before accumulating enough debris to dull effectiveness. In cleaner rooms, I left some in place for a month and they were still viable.
• No smell. The lack of odor made it easy to use in bedrooms and near desks without noticing them.

These traps won’t magically empty a heavy infestation on their own, but they’re a reliable, passive pressure that reduces activity and, importantly, tells you where the action is. I treat them as both control and monitoring tools.

Safety and household friendliness

Because the glue is contained under an arched roof, accidental contact is reduced compared with flat boards. That said, curious pets and swishing tails can still find them. I kept traps flush against walls and tucked slightly behind furniture in rooms with a dog, and that solved the problem. If you do get glue on fur, a little cooking oil on a paper towel works to release it—then wash with mild soap and water.

The traps are non-toxic and mess-free to handle. I still recommend wearing disposable gloves when checking or changing them, both for hygiene and to avoid that inevitable “whoops” moment of sticking your finger to the adhesive.

Maintenance and disposal

I checked traps weekly, recorded any catches, and replaced them when:

• The capture area was more than half covered.
• Dust or pet hair obviously reduced tack.
• Four to six weeks had passed in low-activity spots.

Disposal is easy—fold the tent inward and drop it in a sealed trash bag. If you’re squeamish about seeing the contents, a strip of painter’s tape across the opening before picking it up helps.

Where these traps shine

• Non-toxic, low-odor control for living spaces. They’re quiet enough for bedrooms, offices, and playrooms where sprays and aerosol treatments aren’t welcome.
• Spider management along perimeters. If your main concern is spiders moving along baseboards at night, these shine.
• Monitoring. They help you confirm which rooms and wall segments are actually active, so you’re not guessing where to concentrate effort.
• Modular footprint. Because the traps come in perforated sections, you can keep them small for tight corners or combine segments for longer runs along a wall. This flexibility made placement easier in odd spaces.

Limitations and practical tips

• They don’t attract pests. Think of them as speed bumps, not magnets. Results depend entirely on placement. If a trap stays empty after a week, move it.
• Aesthetics. Even as enclosed tents, they’re still glue traps on the floor. Tuck them behind furniture or choose low-visibility corners.
• Concrete and rough surfaces. On unfinished floors, the tent can skew if nudged. A tiny bit of painter’s tape or a removable mounting strip under the cardboard keeps it put without residue.
• Tabs can loosen. I had one tent pop open after two weeks. A small piece of clear tape across the top seam fixed it.
• Not for flying insects. Obvious, but worth stating. These are for spiders and crawling pests.

Value

With 30 traps in the pack, the cost per placement is low enough to run a meaningful perimeter—think 10–15 locations at once—without rationing. Because the adhesive stays viable for weeks in cleaner areas, you don’t burn through the pack quickly. I consider them solid value as a first-line, passive control method that complements sealing cracks, reducing clutter, and managing moisture.

Who will appreciate these most

• Homeowners battling spiders along baseboards and storage areas.
• Renters who need non-toxic, low-impact solutions.
• Anyone who wants a monitoring tool to identify hot spots before calling in professional treatment.
• People maintaining basements, garages, and utility rooms where low effort, long-duration traps make sense.

Final recommendation

I recommend the S&T glue traps for anyone looking for a non-toxic, low-fuss way to reduce and monitor spider and crawling insect activity. They’re easy to assemble, sturdy enough to hold shape, and effective when placed where pests actually travel. They won’t replace comprehensive treatment for major infestations, and they’re not a silver bullet—placement and patience matter—but as a quiet, inexpensive layer in a broader pest-management plan, they earn a spot in my toolkit.