Rocky Mountain Goods Heavy Duty Metal Bucket Grid - Works with 5 Gallon Buckets - Removes Excess Paint and Reduces Splatter - Even Flow of Paint onto Surfaces

Why I switched to a bucket grid

After a few multi-room paint jobs, I stopped hauling trays around and switched to a bucket setup. Using a 5-gallon pail with a screen has become my go-to for rolling walls, ceilings, and decking. The Rocky Mountain bucket grid slots right into that workflow: it’s a simple, metal screen that hangs inside a standard 5-gallon bucket and lets you load and de-load a roller evenly without relying on flimsy trays or wasteful liners.

Over several projects—interior latex on walls and ceilings, an oil-based bonding primer on cabinets, and a semi-transparent deck stain—I used this grid exclusively. It made the work cleaner, steadier, and faster, with only a couple of minor caveats.

Build and design

The grid is a 12 x 10 x 1.5 inch metal panel with a rectangular lattice and two hooks that hang over a bucket rim. The metal is solvent-resistant and doesn’t soften or deform in contact with mineral spirits or hot water—important if you’re bouncing between latex and oil. I wouldn’t call it industrial, but it’s sturdier than the typical big-box plastic screens. There’s a bit of give if you press hard in the center with a 9-inch roller, yet it doesn’t feel flimsy in use. After repeated rinsing and soaking, I haven’t seen any coating blistering or rust spots.

Edges are mostly smooth with a light deburr; I ran a finger around the perimeter and found just one tiny burr near a weld, easily knocked down with a file. The welds look consistent, and the hooks are formed accurately enough that the screen sits square in a bucket without wobble. The grid spacing is well-sized for 3/8 to 3/4-inch nap rollers—fine for most interior paints and deck finishes. For very thick elastomeric coatings, I’d prefer a thicker gauge to resist flex, but for standard paints and primers this is more than adequate.

Fit and setup

The grid fits every 5-gallon bucket I tried (three brands, including a heavy-duty contractor pail). It hangs at a comfortable angle and remains stable while you push and roll. The 1.5-inch profile keeps the screen close enough to the bucket wall that you’re not wasting paint, but not so close that it traps debris.

My first unit arrived in a soft mailer and had a slight bend on one corner. Two minutes with gentle hand pressure and it was straight again, and it hasn’t budged since. For a piece of formed metal, that’s an annoyance more than a failure, but I’d prefer stiffer packaging. Once set up, I often clip a small spring clamp to the hook as a belt-and-suspenders measure when I’m working off a ladder—it’s not strictly necessary, yet it guarantees the screen can’t hop if the bucket gets bumped.

Performance with rollers

With a half-full bucket, the grid does what it’s supposed to: it meters paint onto the roller evenly and bleeds off excess. The result is fewer edge spits, less roller chatter, and a more controlled first pass. Compared to trays, this is a cleaner workflow. There’s no thin paint reservoir to tip, and you can move the bucket around without sloshing. On ceilings, I especially appreciate being able to keep the bucket on the floor and load the roller without bending down as much—better for pace and back comfort.

• Latex wall/ceiling paint (eggshell and flat): The screen gives a very consistent load. I could roll a 3 x 3 foot section, reload, and maintain that wet edge easily.
• Oil-based primer: No issues with the metal. After wiping the roller on the grid, I could immediately see the nap evenly charged without globs.
• Deck stain (semi-transparent): The thinner fluid runs off quickly, so lighter pressure on the grid helps. Too aggressive and you’ll starve the roller. Once I adjusted, coverage was smooth with minimal splatter.

If you’re coming from a tray, here’s the workflow that’s worked best for me:
1) Fill the bucket with 2–3 inches of paint; 2) Dip the roller just to the nap depth; 3) Roll up the grid with light, even pressure; 4) Give a final, very light pass to knock off excess; 5) Go to the surface immediately to maintain a wet edge.

Using it with brushes

A bit of an off-label benefit: for cutting-in, I’ve used the grid as a controlled wipe surface for a sash brush. Two gentle taps per side keeps the heel from overloading and reduces drips on trim. It’s not a replacement for a proper brush comb, but it helps keep the brush evenly wetted during long runs.

Cleaning and maintenance

Cleanup is straightforward:
- Latex: Rinse in the bucket under a hose, scrub with a nylon brush, and shake dry. Paint doesn’t get trapped in tiny crevices, so it clears quickly.
- Oil-based: A rinse with mineral spirits in the bucket, wipe with a rag, and then a quick soap-and-water wash to finish. The metal shows no softening or clouding.
- Deck stain: A mix of warm water and a small amount of TSP substitute removes residue well.

I try not to let paint fully cure on any screen, but I tested leaving a thin film overnight; it flaked off with a plastic scraper without gouging the metal. To avoid rust, I stand it up to air dry. After months of use, there’s no corrosion.

Durability notes

I’d rate the durability as solid for regular DIY and light pro use. The grid hasn’t deformed under normal rolling pressure, and the hooks haven’t spread. It’s not the thickest-gauge screen I’ve handled, so don’t step on it, and don’t use it to pry dried paint from the bucket rim. Treat it like a tool, not a lever, and it should last years.

One practical note: if you frequently roll highly viscous coatings or use 1-inch nap rollers on rough stucco, a heavier-gauge, welded pro screen may feel stiffer. For standard interior paints and stains, this is a good balance of rigidity and weight.

What I’d improve

• Packaging: A cardboard sleeve would prevent incidental bends in transit.
• Hook grip: A thin rubber or plastic overmold on the hooks would keep the grid absolutely locked on slick bucket rims and prevent minor scuffing inside the bucket.
• Edge finishing: Mine had one tiny burr. A more thorough deburr would make it flawless out of the box.

None of these are dealbreakers, and all are easy to live with, but they’d elevate the experience.

Who it’s for

• DIYers painting multiple rooms, ceilings, fences, or decks who want a faster, cleaner alternative to trays.
• Pros and handypeople who prefer a bucket workflow and want a solvent-resistant metal screen they can toss in the truck.
• Anyone trying to cut down on disposable liners and the mess that comes with shallow trays.

If you’re doing small, single-wall touch-ups or only working with a quart at a time, a tray still makes sense. And if you primarily roll heavy-bodied elastomerics or block fillers, look for a heavier-gauge screen.

Value

The value proposition is straightforward: it replaces trays and liners and makes moving around a job site simpler. The time saved not babysitting a tray—and the finish quality from better roller loading—pay for the screen quickly. Add in the fact that the metal laughs off solvents and hot water, and it’s an economical, reusable piece of kit.

Recommendation

I recommend the Rocky Mountain bucket grid. It fits standard 5-gallon buckets, meters paint evenly onto the roller, reduces splatter, and cleans up quickly. The metal construction holds up to both latex and oil work without fuss. While I’d like to see sturdier packaging and a touch more stiffness for the heaviest coatings, those are minor points in light of its overall performance. If you’re ready to move beyond trays and want a simple, reliable screen for bucket rolling, this one earns a spot in the paint kit.