Kraft Tool GG961 Pour Pot

Why I reached for this pour pot

On small paving and concrete jobs, I like simple tools that do one thing well. For sealing driveway cracks, pouring controlled beads of self-leveler, or transferring sealer from bulk containers without painting the floor, a 10‑quart pour pot hits the sweet spot—enough capacity to be efficient, but still manageable in the hand. I put this pour pot through a few weeks of mixed duty: cold‑pour asphalt crack filler, a polymer‑modified concrete sealer, and a thicker, sand‑charged joint filler. I also used it in the shop to decant water‑based coatings from 5‑gallon pails into smaller containers to see how it behaved with thinner liquids.

Build, design, and ergonomics

This is a straightforward, jobsite‑ready pour pot made in the United States. The body has a tall, narrow profile with a sturdy handle and a formed spout. There’s nothing exotic here—no lid, no clamp ring, no fancy valve—just a practical container designed to hold, measure, and pour. The 10‑quart capacity (about 2.5 gallons) is a useful size: large enough to cut down trips back to the bulk bucket, yet not so heavy that a filled pot becomes a two‑hand carry.

The handle placement feels right. With thicker materials, I could maintain a steady wrist angle without fighting the weight. The base is wide enough to be stable on uneven concrete, and the spout geometry encourages a laminar stream once you find the right tilt. Graduations are visible, and while I wouldn’t rely on them for precision mixing, they’re accurate enough for ratio checks and batching small pours.

Capacity and flow control

At roughly 10 quarts, the pot hits a practical balance between capacity and control. For crack sealing, I found 6–8 quarts to be the ergonomic maximum if you care about bead quality; topping it off to the brim makes the first few feet of a pour feel twitchy. With self‑leveling compounds and sealers, stopping at about three‑quarters full reduced hand fatigue and gave me better modulation at the spout.

This pot relies on your wrist for flow control. There’s no gate or trigger to start and stop the stream—your angle and pace are the “valve.” That’s fine for most tasks, but it does mean technique matters more than with a bottom‑valve crack pourer. Once you dial in your tilt, the stream is predictable.

Performance with different materials

• Cold‑pour asphalt crack filler: This is where the pour pot earned its keep. With medium‑viscosity crack filler, I could lay a consistent bead over hairline and random cracks without splatter. The spout put the stream right where I wanted it, and the body height kept my hand out of the mess. On wider cracks, I’d slow my pace slightly and bump the tilt to broaden the bead. After a few minutes, muscle memory took over.

• Polymer concrete sealer (low viscosity): With thin, watery sealers, the spout tends to weep during the initial tilt and just after closing the stream. It’s not catastrophic, but plan for a drip or two at the start and end. A quick tip I picked up: wipe the spout edge before each run, and begin your tilt over a waste tray or the start of your intended path to catch the first drop.

• Sand‑charged joint filler (high viscosity): The pot handled heavier material better than expected. The spout didn’t clog, and the stream stayed cohesive as long as I kept the aggregate suspended with a quick stir before each fill. The last quart gets sluggish; tipping a touch more aggressively helps.

• Water‑based coatings and paint: As a decanter from 5‑gallon pails into 1‑gallon cans, it did the job cleanly. Again, anticipate a little weeping with very thin liquids. A slower pour and a steady, shallow angle minimize it.

Accuracy and cleanliness

For crack sealing, accuracy matters more than you’d think: too wide and you waste material; too narrow and you miss voids. The spout shape here is a good compromise for both hairlines and 1/4‑inch cracks. I liked how easy it was to feather the stream by adjusting my wrist instead of having to reposition a valve shoe.

Cleanliness comes down to technique and cleanup discipline. With mid‑viscosity materials, I finished most runs without stray drips. With thin sealers, I kept a rag clipped to my belt and did a quick wipe of the lip between sections. If you treat the spout like a brush—wipe it and keep it free of buildup—it behaves.

Durability and maintenance

After multiple fills with water‑based and polymer‑modified products, the pot shows normal wear: a few scuffs and a dulled spout edge, but no deformation. It rinses out quickly with hose pressure when you clean it before materials set. For stickier fillers, a nylon brush and warm water (or the manufacturer’s recommended cleaner) sped things up. My advice:

• Don’t leave material sitting in the pot between passes; even a few minutes can start a skin with some products.
• Rinse the spout thoroughly; residue on the lip is the biggest contributor to drips on the next use.
• If you use sand‑filled mixes, strain out any oversized grit before filling to prevent edge abrasion over time.

I can’t speak to hot‑pour use; I stuck to cold‑apply products. If you’re working with heated rubberized fillers, confirm temperature compatibility before you commit.

Practical tips from the field

• Fill to 60–80% for best control. You’ll pour cleaner and your wrist will thank you.
• Start your tilt over a tray or sacrificial area to catch the first weep with thin liquids.
• Keep a squeegee or trowel nearby. If you lay a bead that’s a touch heavy, you can feather it immediately rather than waiting for cleanup later.
• Mark your preferred fill line on the inside once you find it. Consistency in weight makes runs more uniform.
• Strain viscous materials. A simple mesh screen prevents clogs and gives a smoother stream.

Where it shines—and where it doesn’t

Strengths:
- Versatile capacity for small to mid‑size tasks
- Predictable stream with medium and thick materials
- Comfortable handle and stable base
- Made in the USA with a jobsite‑tough feel
- Easy cleanup if you don’t let materials set

Limitations:
- No mechanical shutoff means drips are technique‑dependent
- Thin, watery sealers are more prone to weeping at the spout
- The tall profile can feel top‑heavy when filled to the brim

If your day revolves around miles of crack sealing, a bottom‑valve pourer with a shoe might give you faster starts and stops. For most maintenance crews, property managers, and small contractors, this simpler pour pot is more flexible across materials and easier to clean.

Value and alternatives

As a generalist tool, this pour pot offers solid value: you can use it for asphalt crack filler, concrete sealers, and even non‑construction liquids around the shop. Specialized pots with gate valves can be cleaner with very thin products but add complexity and more parts to maintain. Buckets and scoops are cheaper but create more mess and less control. For my mix of tasks—occasional crack sealing, periodic sealing jobs, and shop transfers—this strikes a practical balance.

Final recommendation

I recommend this pour pot for anyone who needs a reliable, no‑nonsense way to place controlled beads of medium‑ to high‑viscosity materials, especially cold‑pour crack fillers and thicker sealers. It’s comfortable to handle at working fill levels, pours predictably once you find your angle, and cleans up without a fight. If your primary use is very thin, watery sealers and you expect perfectly drip‑free starts and stops, you may find yourself managing occasional weeps at the spout; in that case, consider a pot with a mechanical shutoff or plan on a bit more attention to technique. For most users, though, this is a capable, made‑in‑USA workhorse that earns a spot in the truck.