PotatoLife Plastic Mesh Fence Safety Fence, 4'x100' Roll with 100 Zip Ties, Resuable Temporary Netting for Garden Fencing, Construction, Snow Fencing, Animal Barrier, Poultry, Deer, Patio, Orange

Why I reached for this mesh fence

I needed a fast, inexpensive way to cordon off a few problem areas: keeping deer off young fruit trees, guiding foot traffic around a backyard project, and adding a visible “backer” to a single strand of electric wire in a small paddock. A rigid fence would have been overkill and expensive to move later, so I put the PotatoLife mesh fence to work.

It’s a 4-foot by 100-foot roll of UV‑resistant plastic mesh that weighs just under 9 pounds. Out of the box, you get the roll, 100 zip ties, and a basic pair of gloves. Posts aren’t included—which is fair, but worth planning for. The bright orange color is geared more toward visibility and safety than yard aesthetics, and that’s largely why I chose it.

Setup and installation

Unrolling the fence is straightforward. The roll stays compact and manageable, and the mesh doesn’t kink badly like thinner netting sometimes does. The included gloves are basic but perfectly fine for handling the mesh and zip ties without scraping your hands.

Cutting to size is painless: a sharp pair of scissors or a utility knife will go through it cleanly, and the edges don’t unravel or fray. I made a couple of custom heights by ripping longwise strips—one two-foot run as a visual aid behind an electric line, and a full-height run around some trees.

Since posts aren’t included, your choice here determines how well the fence behaves:

• Step‑in plastic posts: Quick to place and ideal for short runs or purely visual barriers, but they flex in wind. I kept spacing to about 6 feet with a tie at the top and middle.
• Steel T‑posts or fiberglass rods: Much better for longer runs and windy corners. I could stretch the mesh more evenly with 8–10‑foot spacing, especially if I added a paracord tension line along the top.

With either post, I got the best results by:
- Pulling the fence taut but not drum‑tight (over‑tensioning stretches the plastic and weakens it).
- Using more ties than you think—about every 12–18 inches along posts—and doubling up at the first and last posts on each run.
- Adding a top tension line (cord or light wire) on windy spans and a few ground staples or tent stakes at the base to prevent lift.

The 100 included zip ties are enough for a modest run. For larger setups, plan on buying extra, ideally UV‑rated ties, which hold up better in full sun and cold.

Build quality and durability

The mesh is thicker and more rigid than the flimsy netting you often see, but it’s still plastic—designed for temporary barriers, not permanent containment. After a season of sun, rain, and a couple of gusty storms, mine hasn’t faded dramatically or cracked. The UV resistance seems legit so far.

That said, the limits are clear:
- If you crank it too tight, the squares can stretch or start to elongate near ties.
- It will tear if a heavy animal leans into it or runs through it.
- In freezing temps, cheaper zip ties get brittle; the mesh holds up better than the ties do.

In reasonable use—marking off areas, discouraging deer from browsing, guiding people away from hazards—it holds up well. As a primary barrier for determined animals, it’s not the right tool.

Performance in the yard

• Deer deterrence: The orange is highly visible, which matters more than it might seem. Around young trees, the fence acted as a solid visual cue and helped keep deer at a distance. I wouldn’t trust it as a hard stop if deer are desperate, but as a deterrent it’s effective when properly tensioned and high enough.
• Garden protection: It’ll stop dogs that respect barriers and casual foot traffic. For rabbits, I had mixed results. They don’t have much trouble chewing through plastic if motivated. A strip of hardware cloth along the bottom or a double layer helps a lot if rabbits are your main concern.
• Backing an electric line: As a “visual wall” behind a hot wire for pigs and goats, the mesh does great. It’s not what keeps the animals in—the electricity does—but the visual barrier reduces testing and pacing.
• Jobsite and snow control: The bright color and quick setup are ideal for marking off work areas or guiding people around hazards. On a windy corner where drifting snow collects, a double‑posted span with a top line and tight ties stayed upright and did its job.

Everyday usability

I appreciated how easy it is to move and reconfigure. Taking it down, rolling it up, and re‑installing elsewhere is a solo task. The roll stores cleanly without tangling. For seasonal use—say, protecting plantings in spring and fall—this is far easier to live with than rigid panels.

The main usability tradeoffs:
- Keeping the top edge from waving takes either closer post spacing or a top tension line.
- Uneven ground creates gaps; stake the bottom every few feet, or use a low run of garden edging or a board to block obvious crawl‑unders.
- Corners need stronger posts or bracing to hold tension without bowing.

Where it shines

• Temporary, visible barriers where you need to guide people or discourage animals rather than physically restrain them.
• Quick seasonal setups around plantings and beds.
• Projects where you’ll reconfigure over time—light weight and easy storage make that painless.
• Augmenting other systems: as a visual partner to electric fencing, or as a marker for newly seeded areas.

Where it struggles

• Chew‑prone pests like rabbits and groundhogs. They can and will bite through plastic mesh.
• High‑pressure containment. If a large dog, deer, or livestock pushes, the mesh gives way.
• Aesthetics. The orange is perfect for visibility but stands out in a residential setting. If you want unobtrusive, look for a green or black variant, or be comfortable with the safety-fence look.
• Code‑compliance. Don’t treat this as a pool safety fence or permanent barrier; it’s not designed for that.

Tips for better results

• Choose the right posts. Use T‑posts or fiberglass rods for long runs or any place wind is a factor. Step‑ins are fine for short, low‑stress spans.
• Add tension lines. A light cord or wire along the top (and optionally the middle) keeps the silhouette straight and reduces sag.
• Stake the bottom. Landscape staples every 3–4 feet keep critters from nosing under and reduce wind lift.
• Reinforce high‑wear areas. Double up the mesh at corners and gates, and use two zip ties per point.
• Upgrade ties outdoors. UV‑rated cable ties last longer in sun and cold. In very cold climates, consider reusable hook‑and‑loop straps or galvanized wire ties.
• For rabbits, add a base layer. A 12–18 inch strip of hardware cloth at the bottom is far more effective than relying on plastic alone.
• Don’t over‑tension. A firm but not taut install protects the mesh from stretching at tie points.

Value and what you need to budget for

For the amount of coverage—4 feet by 100 feet—the price point is good, and the included 100 zip ties and gloves get you started. You’ll still need to buy posts, and for most installs you’ll want more ties, a roll of paracord or light wire, and a handful of ground staples. Even factoring those in, it remains a cost‑effective way to create temporary, visible boundaries.

Final take

The PotatoLife mesh fence is a practical, easy‑to‑handle solution for temporary outdoor barriers. It’s light, reusable, and genuinely simple to install and move. As a visual and low‑pressure barrier—around gardens, along paths, at small jobsites—it performs well. Its limitations are typical of plastic mesh: it’s not chew‑proof, not meant for containing determined animals, and it requires decent post selection and tensioning to look tidy.

Recommendation: I recommend it for anyone who needs a temporary, high‑visibility barrier and understands what plastic mesh can and can’t do. If your goal is deterrence, guidance, and seasonal protection, it’s a sensible, budget‑friendly choice. If you need true containment, rabbit resistance, or a long‑term fence with curb appeal, pair it with stronger materials—or choose a different tool.