MOFEEZ Gate Wheel for Metal Swing Gate with 1-5/8" Thru 2" Gate Frames, Gate Support Wheel for Chain Link Fence, Prevent Gate from Dragging

A quick fix for a heavy, dragging gate

A sagging, dragging gate is one of those small annoyances that quickly become a daily headache. My metal swing gate had started scraping the driveway and putting visible stress on the hinge post. Installing the MOFEEZ gate wheel turned that problem into a 15‑minute repair and restored a smooth, one‑handed swing.

What it is

This is a clamp-on helper wheel designed for metal swing and chain-link gates with a round bottom rail. It fits pipe from 1-5/8 to 2 inches in diameter and uses a solid 6-inch rubber tire that’s 1.5 inches wide. The hardware is hot-dip galvanized steel, and the advertised load capacity is up to 500 pounds. From the bottom of the wheel to the centerline of the clamp is 8-3/4 inches, which effectively sets the maximum lift you can give a gate. It attaches with a U-bolt and plate—no drilling, no welding.

The concept is simple: take the weight off the free end of the gate, keep it from dragging, and stop the hinge post from doing all the work.

Installation experience

I propped the gate at the height where the latch lines up properly, then clamped the wheel in place on the bottom rail near the latching end. Two hand tools are all you need—a 19 mm or 3/4-inch wrench makes quick work of the nuts. The parts are straightforward: U‑bolt, backing plate, washers, and lock nuts. It took longer to gather my blocks and level the gate than to mount the wheel.

A few practical notes based on my install:

• Positioning: Mount the wheel within a foot or so of the free end to carry the most weight, but leave space for the latch and any stops.
• Height: Because the center of the clamp sits 8-3/4 inches above the bottom of the wheel, you set the ground clearance by where you clamp it on the rail. Block the gate to the exact latch height first; then clamp the wheel to meet the ground.
• Torque: Tighten the U-bolt very firmly. On my gate, I tightened to the “white-knuckle” point to prevent rotation. The wheel hasn’t slipped. Check again after a few days—they can loosen slightly as the hardware seats.
• Angle: If your approach is sloped or crowned, you can rotate the clamp a few degrees so the tire makes full contact as the gate swings. That little tweak helps the gate roll smoothly over humps or low spots.

From start to finish, installation took me under 20 minutes solo. No adjustments to the hinges, no post work, and no new holes in the metal.

Performance on different surfaces

The wheel’s 6-inch diameter and flat, 1.5-inch-wide tire strike a good balance between compactness and rollability. On poured concrete and compacted crushed rock, the gate now glides. The wheel spans expansion joints, small cracks, and driveway aggregate easily. Across short grass and a reasonably firm yard edge, it rolls without digging ruts.

On softer pea gravel, the wheel will bog in unless there’s a firm path. That’s not a knock on the product so much as a reality of small wheels and loose media. If your gate crosses pea gravel or a fresh, uncompacted stone apron, plan a wheel path: a couple of pavers set flush to grade or a tamped strip of fines makes a big difference. Once I laid a pair of 12-inch stepping stones under the wheel’s path, the roll was as smooth as on concrete.

A side benefit worth noting: supporting the gate with the wheel completely stopped the hinge post from flexing when opening. Before, I could see the post lean as the gate swung; after, the post stays put. That translates into longer life for the hinges and fewer adjustments over time.

Build quality and durability

The hardware is hot-dip galvanized, not just zinc-plated, and that shows in the coating thickness and the way it shrugs off rain. The U-bolt and plate feel substantial, and the wheel core is solid—not a foam or pneumatic tire. The tire is firm enough to resist flat-spotting but has enough give to keep the roll quiet over seams and small stones.

After weeks of daily use in sun and rain, there’s no rust bloom, no play in the axle, and no loosening at the clamp. The tire shows minimal wear. Because it’s a solid rubber wheel on a simple axle, there isn’t any maintenance to do beyond an occasional rinse and a nut check.

Fitment and limitations

• Pipe size only: This wheel clamps to round pipe from 1-5/8 to 2 inches. It won’t fit common 1-3/8-inch chain-link rails without shimming, and it isn’t intended for square or rectangular tubing. Measure your gate before you buy.
• Fixed height, not spring-loaded: Unlike spring-loaded gate casters, this wheel doesn’t float with terrain. If your ground is very uneven, you’ll either want a prepared path or a different style of caster.
• Clearance: With a 6-inch wheel, deep ruts and large roots will still be obstacles. For standard driveways and yard transitions, 6 inches is adequate; for rough pasture, a larger diameter wheel would roll more easily.
• Finish protection: The clamp can mar painted or powder-coated rails if you need to crank it down hard. A wrap of rubber liner or tape under the U-bolt can protect finishes, though it may slightly reduce clamp friction.

Day-to-day use

The improvement in gate feel is immediate. Instead of muscling the panel up and over the high spot in my driveway, I can push lightly and let the wheel do the work. The gate tracks nicely along its arc without wandering, and because the wheel is in line with the gate’s direction of travel, there’s no scrubbing or dragging at the tire. Noise is minimal—more of a low rumble over aggregate than a squeak or clatter.

A small but useful detail: because the wheel supports the free end consistently, the latch alignment is much more reliable. I no longer have to lift the gate to get the latch to catch. If your latch is finicky, stabilize the gate end with the wheel first before re-tuning the latch position.

Tips for the best results

• Preload matters: Tighten the clamp until you’re confident it won’t rotate under load. Re-check after a week and after any hard knocks.
• Plan the path: If you have soft ground or fresh gravel, set pavers or tamp a strip where the wheel travels.
• Mind the slope: Rotate the clamp slightly to match the slope so the tire fully contacts the ground through the swing.
• Keep it near the end: Place the wheel close to the latch side to carry weight and prevent post flexing.
• Protect finishes if needed: A thin rubber or vinyl wrap under the U-bolt can prevent cosmetic damage on painted rails.

How it compares to other options

I’ve used spring-loaded casters and lighter-duty gate wheels before. The MOFEEZ unit wins on simplicity and load support. There’s no spring to sag, no polyurethane wheel to crumble, and no flimsy brackets to bend. The trade-off is that it won’t “float” with deeply uneven ground the way a spring caster can. If your surface is reasonably predictable, this fixed-height design is more robust. If you need maximum compliance over ruts and mounds, a larger, spring-assisted caster might be a better match—but you’ll give up some durability.

The bottom line

The MOFEEZ gate wheel is a straightforward, heavy-duty solution to a dragging metal gate. Installation is quick, the materials are up to the task, and the performance is exactly what you want: it lifts, supports, and rolls without fuss. It won’t solve every terrain challenge, and it’s only for round pipe in the 1-5/8 to 2-inch range, but within those bounds it works exceptionally well.

Recommendation: I recommend this gate wheel for anyone with a heavy metal or chain-link swing gate that’s sagging, scraping, or stressing the hinge post—especially on concrete, asphalt, compacted gravel, or firm turf. It’s durable, easy to install, and genuinely reduces wear on your gate hardware. If your path is soft pea gravel or very uneven ground, budget a few extra minutes to prepare a firm strip or consider a larger, spring-loaded alternative. For most residential driveways and farm gates, though, this is the right blend of simplicity and strength.