Dumond Smart Strip Advanced Paint Remover, For Removal of Acrylic, Latex, Oil & Water-Based Coatings, Non-Caustic Formula, Indoor/Outdoor, Contractor & DIY Friendly, 1 Quart

Why I reached for Smart Strip Advanced

My wrought-iron porch railings had the usual story: decades of alternating latex and oil paint, cracking and flaking in spots, rock-hard everywhere else. Heat guns scorched, methylene chloride strippers were too noxious for a busy entryway, and the fast-evaporating gels stalled out after the first couple of layers. I switched gears to Smart Strip Advanced, a water‑based, non‑caustic remover, to see if a slower, “keep-it-wet” approach could bite through the stack.

Short version: it’s not a magic paint eraser, but used correctly it’s highly effective at removing multiple layers on stubborn substrates with far less stink, sting, and stress than traditional caustics. It demands patience, a generous application, and some mechanical follow‑through. If you can accept that rhythm, it delivers.

What it is and who it’s for

Smart Strip Advanced is a thick, water‑based gel designed to soften and lift acrylic, latex, oil, and water‑borne coatings, plus varnishes and stains, from common surfaces—wood, metal, brick, stone, concrete, plaster, and more. There’s no methylene chloride or NMP, and fumes are minimal. It’s equally at home indoors or out, but there’s one non‑negotiable: it has to stay wet during dwell time to work well. Covering the gel to prevent premature drying is part of the process, not an afterthought.

If you need to remove many layers on sturdy substrates—railings, doors, mantels, masonry, hardware, even some plastics—this is the right category of stripper. If you want same‑day, single‑layer cleanup, sanding or a hot‑gun plus a faster‑flashing solvent stripper may still be faster.

Setup and application: the method matters

A test patch is essential. Different paints, clear coats, and ages of finish respond differently. I use a 2x2 inch spot to dial in thickness and dwell time.

What worked consistently for me:
- Prep: Wipe the surface clean of dust and oils so the gel contacts the coating, not dirt. On metal and masonry, a quick degrease helps.
- Coat thickness: Apply 1/16–1/8 inch. Thin coats underperform. If you can see color peeking through the gel, you’ve likely gone too light. I “stipple” with a brush to pack the gel into crevices rather than brushing it thin.
- Keep it wet: Cover with laminated paper or poly sheeting (plastic wrap works in a pinch). Press it lightly so the gel stays in contact without squeezing it away. Shaded, mild conditions help; sun and wind are the enemy.
- Dwell: For multi‑layer paint on metal and masonry, overnight was the sweet spot. Some thin or newer coatings lift sooner; thicker stacks benefit from 12–24 hours.

One quirk: this product starts working quickly but reaches its stride over time. On delicate or detailed parts, shorter dwell with repeat passes can be smarter than a single marathon soak.

Performance across surfaces

• Wrought iron and steel: Excellent. After a 12–24 hour dwell, the top layers blistered and slid under a plastic scraper. For the recesses, a stiff nylon brush and a Scotch‑Brite pad finished the job. I did need a second, lighter application in a few pitted areas where old oil paint clung.
• Cast and sheet metal fixtures: Strong results, especially when I cleaned the existing paint first and kept the gel out of direct sun. Thin coats didn’t cut it; a heavy slather made the difference. Removing the cover and using the sheeting itself as a “peel” lifted surprising amounts in one go.
• Wood trim and furniture: Good to very good with the right pace. The gel softens multiple layers cleanly, and because it’s water‑based there’s far less risk of darkening tannin‑rich woods than with harsh caustics. On open-grain oak and intricate profiles, plan for a detail brush and a second pass. Rinse carefully to avoid raising grain; a quick wipe with water followed by a denatured alcohol pass helped me clear residue without overwetting.
• Masonry and stone: Good. Paint on brick and stone softened deeply and scraped off in sheets, though mortar lines sometimes needed a second application and a bristle brush to get fully clean.
• Plastics and miniatures: With short dwell times, I was able to strip acrylics and enamels from polystyrene miniatures without etching details. The key is a modest coat, 30–60 minute dwell, then toothbrush agitation and a water rinse. If you let it dry into a paste on tiny parts, removal gets messy.
• Drywall and plaster: Mixed. The gel will soften latex wall paint, but scraping on drywall risks scuffing the paper face. On plaster it’s more forgiving. For large interior walls, I’d consider other methods unless you’re targeting accent areas or detailed trim.

Working time, removal, and cleanup

This is not a wipe‑on, wipe‑off stripper. Even on responsive coatings, you’ll be doing some mechanical work:
- Scraping: Use a plastic scraper on delicate surfaces, metal on metal/masonry. Expect some elbow grease; “sheet release” does happen, but it’s not universal.
- Agitation: A toothbrush or nylon brush lifts softened paint from profiles and detail.
- Rinse/wipe: Because it’s water‑based, warm water and a scrub pad remove residue. On wood I prefer a damp wipe, then a quick pass with denatured alcohol to avoid swelling fibers.
- Residue: Bag the spent gel and chips and dispose of according to local regulations.

Odor is very low. Skin contact doesn’t produce the immediate burn of caustic products, but I still wear gloves, sleeves, and eye protection. Indoors, normal ventilation is enough, though I keep a fan moving air when stripping larger areas.

Coverage and cost realities

The quart size is perfect for small to medium tasks: a set of light fixtures, a short railing section, a couple of doors, a fireplace mantel, or a batch of cabinet doors. Coverage varies hugely with thickness and the number of layers you’re tackling. If you’re going after 10+ layers or large, rough surfaces and you apply a proper 1/8 inch film, expect to use product quickly and plan for multiple quarts or a gallon. It’s a fair trade‑off: you’re buying time, safety, and indoor suitability rather than racing with a hot, volatile chemical.

Tips that improved results

• Shade and shelter matter. Keep work out of direct sun and wind to prevent drying.
• Slather, don’t skim. Thick application beats multiple thin coats.
• Cover every time. Laminated paper or plastic prevents premature drying and speeds penetration.
• Work in sections. On big pieces, staging your work in manageable zones keeps dwell and removal on schedule.
• Don’t over‑wet wood during cleanup. Use damp wipes and alcohol to manage residue without raising grain.
• Reapply targeted spots instead of forcing them with aggressive scraping. It’s often quicker and preserves details.
• Always test a patch to set expectations and dial in dwell time.

Limitations

• Time: Expect overnight dwell for multi‑layer stacks. If your priority is same‑day turnaround, choose a faster chemical or mechanical removal method.
• Elbow grease: This isn’t a zero‑scrape product. Curves, corners, and porous areas will demand brushes and pads.
• Large, flat interior walls: Possible, but it’s not the most efficient choice for whole‑room repaints on drywall.
• Consumption: Heavy application means you’ll go through product on big, thickly coated projects. Factor that into cost planning.

How it compares

Compared to hot, caustic removers, Smart Strip Advanced trades speed for safety and control. It excels where ventilation is limited, where you can afford an overnight dwell, and where multiple layers have defeated quick‑flash gels. Against rapid solvent products on single‑layer jobs, it can feel slow. Against a heat gun, it’s safer on lead‑suspect coatings and better on ornate or heat‑sensitive substrates.

The bottom line

Smart Strip Advanced won me over as a dependable, low‑odor way to remove many layers from tough surfaces without the hazards of traditional caustics. It thrives when you respect its operating principle—keep it wet, give it time, and help it along with smart scraping and scrubbing. It’s not the fastest route for every job, and it’s not the most economical choice for large, lightly coated walls. But for railings, fixtures, doors, carved trim, masonry, and detailed parts—especially indoors—it’s an effective, less‑toxic solution that produces clean, repaintable surfaces.

Recommendation: I recommend Smart Strip Advanced to DIYers and pros tackling multi‑layer paint or varnish on durable substrates, particularly where low odor, indoor use, or safety is a priority. Buy the quart for targeted projects or testing; step up to larger sizes if you’re planning whole‑house trim or long runs of metalwork. If your needs are rapid turnaround on a single coat or broad interior wall stripping, other methods may be more efficient, but for complex, layered coatings this product earns its keep.