DeWalt Forced Air Electric Construction Heater (13/20 kW)

First impressions and setup

I rolled the DeWalt electric jobsite heater into a drafty, partially enclosed warehouse bay in late January and immediately appreciated two things: the wheel kit and the recessed control panel. At 48 pounds it’s not backbreaking, but the oversized handle and wheels made it easy to shuttle from truck to slab without banging up the thermostat or switches. The controls sit protected inside a recessed pocket, so they don’t snag on straps or get whacked while you’re moving material.

This is a serious heater intended for jobsites with proper power. It’s a 240 V three‑phase unit with two stages—13 kW or 20 kW—and it expects an electrician-level hookup and a compatible panel. At full output you’re looking at roughly 50 A draw with a recommended 3‑pole 60 A breaker; at 13 kW it’s around 33 A with a 3‑pole 40 A breaker. In other words, it fits commercial spaces well and only some shops. If your world is single‑phase residential, this isn’t the right tool.

Wiring it in was straightforward on a proper three‑phase service. Once energized, it’s as simple as choosing low or high heat and setting the thermostat. There’s also a fan‑only mode, which I ended up using more than expected for air movement between heating cycles.

Heating performance

On paper the numbers are strong: 68,242 BTU/hr at 20 kW (44,357 at 13 kW) with 600 CFM airflow. In practice, that translates to quick, even heat in medium‑size zones and steady, supplemental heat in larger bays. In a ~1,000–1,200 sq ft work area with 14‑ft ceilings and poor insulation, high stage took the edge off the cold fast and got the space to a workable temperature within a short window. Dialing back to 13 kW held the temp comfortably while edge zones stayed active.

A couple of observations from use:
- The 600 CFM fan balances noise and throw nicely. It’s louder than a pedestal fan but quieter than many diesel salamanders. Conversation is possible nearby without shouting.
- The heat feels even rather than scorching; there are no combustion hot spots, and the discharge doesn’t bake nearby materials. That’s helpful around finishes and plastics.
- Recovery is predictable. Once the thermostat is set for the target range, the unit cycles without overshoot, avoiding the sweat‑then‑shiver pattern cheaper heaters can cause.

If you’re used to propane torpedoes boasting 100k–150k BTU/hr, this won’t brute‑force a huge, leaky structure quite as aggressively. But the tradeoff is zero fumes, predictable thermostat control, and safer unattended operation—big wins on many projects.

Controls and usability

The control scheme is refreshingly simple:
- A two‑stage selector (13 kW / 20 kW)
- A fan‑only setting for circulation without heat
- A mechanical thermostat adjustable from 25°F to 95°F

No app, no timers, no digital readout—just durable knobs and switches that do the job. The thermostat was accurate enough that I didn’t feel compelled to add an external sensor. More important, it kept temperature consistent in the occupied zone, which matters far more than a perfect number on a screen.

Fan‑only mode turned out to be a quiet hero. I used it to move air during paint drying and to clear stale corners between heating cycles. It’s also useful for shoulder seasons when you want airflow, not heat.

Build quality and transport

The build inspires confidence. The heating coils are supported at both the top and bottom, which limits transport chatter and should reduce coil fatigue over time. That might sound minor, but jobsite heaters get knocked around—supported coils are less likely to buzz, sag, or snap when they’ve rattled in a van for months.

Recessed controls and compact dimensions help it survive around pallets, banding, and stray rebar. The wheel kit is a must‑have at this weight and output class; I wouldn’t want to lug this by hand between floors, but rolling across concrete and thresholds is easy.

Safety and unattended use

One of the standout advantages of an electric heater in the field is safety. There’s no open flame, no combustion gases, and no risk of CO accumulation. This unit is designed and certified as an unattended heat source, and that certification matters when you’re keeping a site above freezing overnight for adhesives, compounds, or a sprinkler main.

Real‑world caveat: unattended doesn’t mean no oversight. I still keep it clear of dust piles, plastic sheeting, and loose cardboard; I verify stable footing and maintain a reasonable buffer in the discharge path. But compared to fuel‑burning heaters, this is a far more straightforward set‑and‑monitor solution.

Power cost and practicality

At 20 kW, you’re using 20 kWh per hour of runtime. If your electricity rate is $0.15/kWh, that’s roughly $3 per hour on high and about $2 per hour at 13 kW. Even accounting for demand charges in some facilities, the operating cost is predictable and often lower than hauling propane or diesel—especially when you factor in ventilation requirements and labor to refuel.

The bigger hurdle is electrical availability. Many homes and small garages don’t have 240 V three‑phase service or spare breaker capacity. On commercial sites with three‑phase panels, it’s a non‑issue. If you need portability between varied locations, verify power before you commit.

Where it fits best

• Commercial interiors, TI work, and warehouses with three‑phase service
• Trades needing clean, fume‑free heat: finish carpentry, flooring, painting, MEP work
• Overnight freeze protection for materials and piping
• Shops where a dependable thermostat is preferable to intermittently babysitting a fuel heater
• Any space where fan‑only air turnover is occasionally useful

If you regularly heat large, open, uninsulated structures in extreme cold, you may still prefer higher‑CFM, higher‑BTU fuel heaters for initial warm‑up, then switch to this for steady-state comfort.

What I’d change

• Power flexibility: A single‑phase variant or a model that could accept either phase configuration would broaden its audience significantly. As is, the three‑phase requirement narrows the field.
• Warranty length: A 1‑year limited warranty is okay, not great, for a pro‑grade heater that may run long hours for months.
• Controls: The mechanical thermostat is reliable, but a dual‑mode option (mechanical/local plus terminals for external control or a simple digital readout) would help integrate with temporary site automation without compromising durability.

None of these are dealbreakers in the right environment, but they’re worth noting.

Tips from use

• Size the circuit correctly: 3‑pole 60 A for 20 kW, 3‑pole 40 A for 13 kW. Don’t improvise with undersized protection.
• Treat extension cords as off‑limits. Hardwired or properly terminated connections only.
• Aim and space: Keep the discharge pointed across the work zone rather than at nearby surfaces. This promotes even mixing and avoids localized overheating.
• Keep it clean: Blow out dust periodically. Construction dust loves heating elements and can hamper airflow.
• Use fan‑only between cycles to maintain air quality without over‑heating.

The bottom line

I recommend the DeWalt electric jobsite heater for crews and shops that have 240 V three‑phase power and want clean, thermostat‑controlled heat without the headaches of fuel. It delivers meaningful output for its size, runs quietly enough for active workspaces, and the build details—supported coils, recessed controls, wheel kit—make it suited to real jobsite life. The two‑stage operation lets you balance speed of warm‑up against breaker capacity and operating cost, and the fan‑only mode adds day‑to‑day utility beyond heating.

If you don’t have three‑phase or you rely on sheer brute force for massive, leaky spaces, look elsewhere. But in its intended environment, this heater is a reliable, efficient way to keep people comfortable, materials within spec, and schedules intact.