HomeRight C800971.A Super Finish Max, Includes 3 Brass Spray Tips, 3 Spray Patterns, Easy to Clean HVLP Paint Sprayer, Great for Furniture, Cabinets, Trim & More, for Stains, Sealers & Latex Paints

Why I reached for the Super Finish Max

I grabbed the Super Finish Max for a string of DIY finishing jobs: repainting a set of kitchen cabinets, refreshing a handful of interior doors and trim, and putting a new coat of sealer on a fence panel. I wanted the speed and uniform finish of spraying without committing to a full airless rig or a compressor-and-gun setup. After several weekends with it, I have a clear picture of what this handheld HVLP does well, where it struggles, and how to get consistent results.

Setup, build, and ergonomics

Out of the box you get the sprayer, three brass tips (1.5 mm, 2.0 mm, 4.0 mm), a few small accessories, and a sizable cup. The sprayer’s body feels solid for the price, and the brass tips are a welcome upgrade over the plastic ones common in budget units; they resist wear and clean up more reliably.

Two notes on handling:
- Weight: With a full cup of paint, it’s not featherlight. For cabinet doors and trim it’s fine, but painting overhead or long sessions will have you switching hands or taking breaks.
- Heat and noise: The built-in turbine gets warm and sounds about like a loud shop vac. Ear protection helps during longer runs.

The adjustable air cap (horizontal, vertical, round) and a material flow dial give you basic but effective control. The suction tube inside the cup can be oriented forward or backward to bias toward up- or downward spraying—handy when you need to tilt the gun.

Power is standard 120V. If you’re outside North America, plan on a proper step-down converter; it’s not dual-voltage.

Dialing in the spray

HVLP is all about matching viscosity and tip size to the coating. The Super Finish Max’s 450-watt motor has decent muscle for a handheld, but it’s still an HVLP turbine—not an airless. Here’s what worked for me:

• Stains and clear sealers: 1.5 mm tip, unthinned in most cases. The sprayer put down smooth, controlled coats on a fence panel and small furniture pieces.
• Waterborne enamel/latex for cabinets and doors: 2.0 mm tip, usually a light reduction (5–15% with water) plus a paint conditioner if you have one. Once dialed, I got a level, brush-mark-free finish.
• Primers and heavier paints: 4.0 mm tip, often thinned. You can push some thicker primers with the 4.0, but plan on testing and likely reducing to keep the fan even and avoid spitting.

The fan pattern is respectable for a handheld: even edges, good atomization when the material is in range, and predictable overlap. I got the most consistent results with a 6–8 inch standoff and moderate trigger speed. It’s worth practicing on cardboard to lock in settings before you touch your project.

Real-world performance

• Cabinets and doors: This is the sweet spot. Flat panels and frames sprayed with the 2.0 tip and a slightly reduced enamel leveled beautifully. I sprayed doors laid flat on painter’s pyramids to avoid runs and flipped them after drying.
• Trim and furniture: Quick and clean. The round pattern helps on rails, spindles, and chair legs. With stain or clear, the 1.5 mm tip makes for easy, controlled passes.
• Fences and small exterior sections: The 4.0 mm tip moves enough material for sealers and thin paints, and overspray is noticeably lower than an airless—less prep, less mess.
• Ceilings and large interior surfaces: Not the right tool. The combination of cup-fed pickup, necessary close distance, and the frequent refills makes it inefficient and frustrating overhead. Use an airless for big, continuous surfaces.

Overspray exists, but it’s moderate. Masking and a light touch with the trigger go a long way. Because you’re spraying closer than with airless, you can get tidy edge control with some practice.

Cleaning and maintenance

Cleaning any sprayer is the tax you pay for a sprayed finish. This one lands in the “reasonable but not delightful” camp:

• Plan on breaking down the front end (cap, nozzle, needle) and scrubbing with warm water (for water-based coatings) after each session. The brass tips clean faster than plastic.
• Latex will skin on the nozzle when the turbine warms up. I keep a damp rag on the bench and wipe the tip every refill or when the fan pattern starts to narrow.
• Be mindful not to soak the motor housing. I disconnect the cup, run clean water through the pickup, and use a small brush to clear the nooks in the air cap and nozzle.
• If the trigger starts to feel sticky after heavy use, a thorough cleaning of the needle channel and a tiny dab of non-silicone lubricant on the packing nut can restore a crisp action.

Keep the small parts organized; the tips and cap pieces are easy to misplace. I store them in a labeled zip bag inside the case.

What I liked

• Versatility with the three-tip kit. Being able to jump from stain to enamel to primer without buying extras is genuinely useful.
• Brass hardware at this price. Consistent spray and easier cleanup over time.
• Simple, predictable adjustments. Air cap and flow control do what they should without fuss.
• Finish quality on cabinets and trim rivals much pricier setups, provided you match viscosity and technique.

What could be better

• Not enough headroom for thick paints without reduction. That’s normal for HVLP, but you’ll want to budget time for thinning and testing.
• Cup size and pickup limit overhead work. Frequent refills and the tilt angle challenge make ceilings and big walls a chore.
• Warm nozzle skinning with latex. Wiping the tip is part of the workflow, but it interrupts your rhythm.
• Cleaning is still a process. Easier than some, but be ready for 10–15 minutes at the sink.

Tips for best results

• Strain your paint. A cheap cone filter saves you from clogs and spitting.
• Test and tune. A few passes on cardboard will tell you everything about flow, fan width, and distance.
• Reduce intelligently. Start with 5–10% water for waterborne paints and adjust in small steps; use manufacturer guidance where available.
• Orient the pickup tube. Point it toward the direction you’ll tilt most to get more out of each cup.
• Work in light, overlapping passes. Two to three light coats beat one heavy one, especially on vertical surfaces.
• Mask thoroughly. Even with HVLP, atomized mist hangs in the air.

Who it’s for (and who it’s not for)

• Ideal for: DIYers and homeowners tackling furniture, cabinets, doors, trim, fences, and small exterior elements who want a smoother finish than brushes and rollers without buying an airless rig.
• Not ideal for: Pros needing to push gallons of thick coatings quickly, or anyone planning to spray entire interiors or ceilings regularly. An airless sprayer is better suited there.
• International users: It’s a 120V tool. Use a proper step-down transformer if your mains supply is 220–240V.

Recommendation

I recommend the Super Finish Max for small to medium projects where finish quality matters more than raw speed. With the included brass tips, straightforward controls, and enough power for properly thinned coatings, it delivers a clean, consistent spray on cabinets, doors, trim, and furniture. You’ll spend some time dialing in viscosity and you’ll need to keep the nozzle tidy, but that’s par for the HVLP course. If your workload leans toward big walls and ceilings, step up to an airless. For everything else in the DIY finishing lane, this sprayer is a capable, good-value companion.