Cantex 5133667 Conduit Outlet Body, Pvc, Lb

What it is and why I reached for it

On a recent exterior run to a spa disconnect, I needed a clean, code-compliant way to transition a 90-degree change of direction without turning the pull into a knuckle-busting chore. I used the Cantex LB for a 1-1/2-inch PVC conduit run, and it did exactly what a good LB should do: provide accessible pulling space, maintain a smooth path for conductors, and seal up tight against the weather.

This is a UL-listed LB conduit body designed for 1-1/2-inch runs. It’s the standard right-angle form with a removable back cover, sized to give you access for pulling, routing, and—crucially—splicing, provided you observe the volume and markings on the body. In practice, it behaves like the familiar gray PVC fittings electricians and DIYers rely on for outdoor and corrosive environments: lightweight, tough, and easy to work with.

Build quality and materials

The body is rigid PVC with a uniform, slightly matte finish that resists glare and hides dirt well. The casting is consistent: no thin spots, flashing, or misaligned seams on the sample I used. The cover is flat and true, and the sealing surface on the body is even all the way around, which matters if you want a rain-tight fit.

Hardware-wise, the cover screws seat positively and thread smoothly into the body inserts. If you’re like me and you’ve stripped enough cover screws to develop a sixth sense about torque, you’ll appreciate that these resist cross-threading and don’t gall easily. I still recommend hand-tightening the last few turns—no impact drivers here—especially if you plan to revisit the cover after the conduit has settled. The gasket sits in a comfortable groove and compresses uniformly. With a properly seated gasket and snug screws, you’re looking at a weather-tight closure suitable for wet locations.

PVC’s big advantage is corrosion resistance, and this LB plays to that strength. It won’t pit like die-cast aluminum fittings in coastal air or around pool equipment. It’s also UV stabilized, so it doesn’t chalk excessively or get brittle under sun exposure the way general-purpose PVC can. I’ve had gray electrical PVC in similar settings hold up for years; there’s nothing in this one’s feel or behavior that makes me think it’ll be any different.

Size, clearances, and reality on the wall

For 1-1/2-inch conduit, the LB is sizeable. Expect a footprint roughly in the neighborhood of a shoe box’s corner: big enough that you need to think about clearance behind siding laps, trim boards, gas lines, or downspouts. On my install, I had to nudge a mounting strap to gain a quarter-inch of clearance at the top lip. That’s to say: measure twice, including the cover depth and screw head projection. If you’re transitioning close to grade, plan for adequate stand-off so the cover can be removed in the future without pulling the run apart.

That bulk isn’t a downside in use. The extra internal space is exactly what makes pulling easier. It also means you can see what you’re doing when making up splices where allowed. Just don’t assume “LB” automatically means “junction box.” Look for the internal cubic-inch marking and use that to calculate conductor volume if you intend to splice. This unit is marked for access and splicing; treat that marking seriously to stay on the right side of the code.

Installation experience

Fitting it into the run was straightforward. The hubs align squarely, and the portals are true; conduit seats fully without wobble. For solvent-weld PVC, I dry-fit first, marked the alignment, then primed and cemented the joints. If you’re using adapters or transitions, everything still lines up without drama thanks to the generous hub geometry and consistent wall thickness.

A few tips from the install:
- Deburr and lightly chamfer the conduit ends. It helps the pipe seat fully and reduces the chance of shaving the cement into the body where it could compromise the gasket surface later.
- Keep the gasket and cover off until your cement cures. Residual solvent in the enclosure can soften a gasket lip.
- Before final closure, wipe the sealing surface clean. A thin film of dust or primer can create a capillary path for water intrusion.
- Hand-snug the cover screws evenly in a cross pattern to seat the gasket without warping the cover.

Pulling through was painless. The bend radius inside the LB is broad enough that THHN/THWN conductors glide without kinking or flattening, even at larger sizes. I ran a fish tape from the far end, attached a pulling grip, and didn’t need soap to get three conductors and a ground through the 90. If you do need lubricant for longer runs, there’s enough room to apply it intelligently rather than blindly smearing and hoping.

Performance in the field

With the cover on and the gasket properly seated, the LB has stayed bone-dry after several rainstorms and a sprinkler test. No weeps from the screw holes, no intrusion at the cover seam, and no fogging inside on warm mornings. The screws have held their torque and haven’t rusted or stained the cover. The body hasn’t shown any color change or stress whitening around the hubs, which can happen if the cement bites unevenly or the conduit settles.

I also appreciate the access it affords for maintenance. Being able to open the back and visually confirm conductor condition and tightness of any permitted splices without pulling a run apart is a time-saver. The cover comes off cleanly and goes back on without fighting misaligned threads or a stretched gasket.

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them

• Over-tightening cover screws: Easy to do, especially if you’re rushing. If the cover bows, you’ve gone too far and you’ll compromise the seal.
• Cement squeeze-out on the sealing surface: Keep a rag and a small scraper handy. Clean immediately.
• Underestimating size: For 1-1/2-inch conduit, this LB is big. Check for obstructions and verify you can remove the cover later. If space is tight, consider stepping to a different body style or rerouting the conduit to gain clearance.
• Treating it like a structural support: It’s an access fitting, not a hanger point. Support the conduit within code-required distances on either side and don’t rely on the LB alone to carry load or protect against thermal movement.

How it compares to metal conduit bodies

I often default to PVC LBs outdoors and near corrosive sources (sprinklers, soil contact, pool equipment) because they shrug off corrosion and eliminate bonding concerns associated with metallic fittings. Metal bodies can feel more rigid and sometimes offer slimmer profiles for the same trade size, but they bring threading, galvanic issues, and corrosion risk into the picture. The Cantex LB hits the sweet spot for exterior residential and light commercial work where durability, weather resistance, and ease of installation matter more than a marginally smaller profile.

Value

It’s a commodity fitting, but not all LBs are equal. This one strikes a good balance of tight molding tolerances, reliable gasket fit, and sensible hardware. It’s the kind of piece you install and forget—no return trips to chase drips, no cracked covers after a season in the sun. If you’re running 1-1/2-inch PVC, you’ll appreciate that predictability more than saving a dollar or two on a bargain-bin alternative.

Who it’s for

• Electricians and DIYers running 1-1/2-inch PVC in wet locations, outdoor walls, or corrosive areas.
• Anyone needing a UL-listed access point for pulling and, where marked, splicing, during a 90-degree direction change.
• Projects like spa/hot tub feeds, outbuilding services, irrigation pump circuits, and pool equipment subpanels.

If your project uses metallic conduit, you’ll likely reach for a metal LB to match the system, or pair adapters carefully. For tight architectural spaces where appearance is paramount, double-check dimensions and clearances before committing.

Bottom line and recommendation

The Cantex LB does the simple things right: square hubs, a generous interior for easier pulls, a flat cover that seals reliably, and hardware that doesn’t fight you. It’s tough enough for exterior duty, forgiving to install, and properly marked for code-compliant use as an access and splicing point. The only real caveat is its physical size; at 1-1/2 inches, expect a substantial fitting and plan your route accordingly. Minor scuffs or shop marks on PVC are common and cosmetic—they don’t affect performance.

I recommend this tool. For 1-1/2-inch PVC runs that need a right-angle access point you can trust, the Cantex LB offers dependable build quality, weather-tight performance, and a straightforward installation experience. It’s the fitting I’ll continue to keep on hand for outdoor pulls where reliability and ease of maintenance matter.