Sunxeke 3Pcs Heavy Duty Upholstery and Construction Staple Remover with Tack Puller Tool, Nail Puller, Carpet Remover, for Removing All Kinds of Staples

Why I reached for this set

I recently tackled a reupholstery project and a porch clean‑up in the same month—two jobs that require very different approaches to pulling fasteners. For both, I reached for the Sunxeke 3‑piece remover set. It’s a simple trio: a 7-inch and a 9-inch staple remover with forked tips, plus a 6-inch tack puller/end‑nipper. On paper, that’s a straightforward lineup. In practice, each tool has a distinct sweet spot, and how you pair them determines whether the day feels efficient or frustrating.

Build and ergonomics

The first impression is confidence. The steel feels dense and rigid with no perceivable flex at the tips under force, and the machining at the prongs is clean—no burrs or poorly ground edges to scratch finished surfaces. The finish is a dark, rust‑resistant coating that’s held up well after a few sweaty afternoons and a rinse. The rubber grips are a welcome upgrade over bare steel; they’re contoured, genuinely non‑slip, and don’t get slick when dusty.

The pivot geometry on the two forked removers is worth noting. The fulcrum is placed to give you leverage without forcing you to lift the handle to a paint‑gouging angle. That makes a real difference when you’re working across a large seat frame or along a baseboard and want shallow, controlled prying.

What each tool is actually good for

• 7-inch forked remover: This is the precision pick of the set. The tips are slimmer and sharpened enough to get under most upholstery staples, especially on hardwood frames where the staples sit proud or just barely sunk. It’s the one I used the most on chairs and ottomans.

• 9-inch forked remover: Longer handle, more leverage, and a thicker, stouter tip. It shines on construction staples, outdoor work, and anything driven deep into softwood where you need brute force and a broad fulcrum to avoid crushing the workpiece. For delicate furniture frames and tight clearances, it can feel bulky.

• 6-inch tack puller/end‑nipper: Call it an end‑cutting plier with a broad rolling face. It’s great for finishing the job—grabbing and rocking out a stubborn staple leg after the forked tool has lifted it, or rolling out brads and small nails without leaving crescent‑shaped dents. It also doubles as a wire trimmer in a pinch.

Upholstery performance

On furniture, success comes down to how thin you can get under a leg without chewing up the wood. The 7-inch remover slides under most upholstery staples cleanly, especially if you work at a shallow angle and wiggle side‑to‑side rather than prying straight up. On firm hardwood frames, I could usually lift both legs in one controlled motion with minimal marring. On softer woods or particleboard seat pans—common on dining chairs—I occasionally needed to “start” the staple with a light tap of the tool using a mallet to get the tip seated. Once initiated, the leverage felt spot on.

The 9-inch remover was too thick for many of the tightly embedded upholstery staples I encountered, particularly on older pieces with narrow clearances. It’s not that it won’t work—it will—but on fine furniture it can encourage splintering around the crown if you’re forcing entry. I ended up reserving it for spots where leverage mattered more than finesse, such as long runs of staples on the underside dust cover or along framing rails with plenty of room.

The tack puller/end‑nipper became the closer. After lifting a staple partially, I’d grip one leg and rock the rounded head against the wood to walk it out. Done right, it leaves a faint burnish rather than a gouge. It also made quick work of decorative upholstery nails and small brads—just come in low, capture the shank, and roll.

Construction and outdoor tasks

For staples driven into framing or trim outdoors (think plastic sheeting stapled to a porch for winter), the 9-inch tool earns its keep. With hundreds of weathered, sunk staples, leverage wins the day. The thicker tip suffers fewer chips when you hit the occasional hidden screw or hardened crown, and the larger fulcrum spreads the load so you’re not denting soft pine. The 7-inch still had a role finding an entry point under ugly, flattened crowns, but once started, I switched to the long handle to spare my hands and wrists.

On carpet tack strips, I defaulted to the tack puller/end‑nipper for nails and the 9-inch forked remover for long-legged construction staples. The ability to roll nails out rather than prying at steep angles saved a lot of baseboard touch‑up.

Surface protection and control

The claim that these tools minimize surface damage is fair—if you work them as designed. Two habits mattered most:

• Rock side‑to‑side to seat the forked tip under the crown, then pry shallow, pulling the staple legs up together rather than levering against one leg at a time.

• Use the end‑nipper’s rounded head as a rolling fulcrum, not a pinch-and-yank plier. The rolling motion distributes pressure and avoids crescent dents.

On stained hardwood chair rails, I could often lift staples with no more than a couple of pencil‑eraser‑sized sheen marks that buffed out. On softwoods and particleboard, you’ll still see some fibers lift if the staple is deeply buried; a piece of painter’s tape between fulcrum and surface helps.

Durability

No blade chipping, no bent tips, no loose grips after multiple sessions. The coating picked up expected scuffs but no rust. The jaws of the end‑nipper remained aligned and cut cleanly. For a budget‑friendly set, the durability impressed me.

Limitations to know before you buy

• Tip thickness: Neither of the forked tools is truly “micro thin.” If you’re facing an entire project of deeply embedded, flush‑cut upholstery staples in particleboard, you may want an ultra‑thin starter blade or a specialty lifter to pair with this set. The 7-inch is close, but still a hair stout for the worst offenders.

• Delicate antiques: On high‑value antiques with fragile veneer or splinter‑prone edges, I’d still tape off the fulcrum faces and proceed carefully. The leverage is strong; a careless angle can bruise a finish.

• Tight spaces: The larger 9-inch head can be too bulky in tight chair corners and under narrow rails. Plan on relying on the 7-inch and the end‑nipper there.

None of these are dealbreakers, but they do shape expectations.

Tips for better results

• Score fabric first. A quick slice along the staple line with a sharp utility knife reduces drag and tearing, making it easier to get under the crown.

• Tap to start. A couple of light mallet taps on the 7-inch tool seats the tip under stubborn crowns without brute force.

• Work shallow. Keep the handle low and pry along the plane of the surface; steep angles increase denting.

• Finish with the nippers. Lift with the fork, remove with the end‑nipper—fewer blowouts and less hand fatigue.

• Keep pliers nearby. Needle‑nose pliers are helpful for fishing out broken legs.

• Protect finishes. Painter’s tape or a thin plastic card under the fulcrum prevents rub marks on delicate surfaces.

Value and who it’s for

As a three‑piece kit, this hits a nice balance: enough variety to cover most staple, tack, and small nail removal tasks without paying for a dozen specialty tools. The steel quality and ergonomics exceed what I usually expect in this price tier. DIYers reupholstering a couple of chairs, pros doing recurring dust-cover removals, and anyone pulling heavy construction staples or outdoor fasteners will get plenty of mileage. If your work is almost exclusively ultra‑delicate or you need a surgical‑thin starter, consider supplementing with a thinner lifter rather than replacing this outright.

Bottom line

I recommend the Sunxeke 3‑piece remover set. It’s well built, comfortable, and genuinely effective across a range of tasks—from upholstery staples to outdoor construction staples and small brads—so long as you choose the right piece of the trio for the job. The 7-inch tool offers the finesse most furniture work needs, the 9-inch brings the muscle for heavier, deeper fasteners, and the end‑nipper finishes cleanly without scarring the surface. The only real caveat is tip thickness: for the tightest, deeply embedded staples in soft substrates, you may want a thinner starter tool to complement this kit. For most users and most jobs, though, this set strikes the right balance of leverage, control, and durability at a fair price.