COTTONWOOD HARDWARE CWH Window Screen Clips – Aluminum Replacement Spring Plunger Pins, Frame Latch Lock Bolts, Pull Pin Fastener Parts, Secure Window Screens, 25 Pack, White Caps, Made in America

Why I reached for aluminum pins

After too many seasons nursing brittle plastic plungers on my window screens, I finally swapped them out for a metal solution. The CWH aluminum plunger pins are about as simple as hardware gets—small machined pins, coil springs, and snap-on caps—but that simplicity is exactly what makes them effective. My goal was modest: secure screens cleanly, survive repeated removals, and stop worrying about cracking plastic every time I wash windows. On those counts, these did what I needed.

What’s in the kit

• 25 aluminum pins
• 25 coil springs
• 25 white plastic caps

The pins are 1 1/2 inches long with a 5/32-inch diameter. That size is typical for plunger pins and worked with most of the frames I tested, from older aluminum slider screens to newer, thinner frames. The caps are low-profile and sit flush against the frame once snapped on. Everything comes bagged together; it’s a straightforward, parts-only kit with no extras.

A quick note on packaging: all the springs arrive in one bag, and they can tangle. It’s a minor annoyance, but I needed a few minutes to separate them before getting started.

Build quality and design

The pins are aluminum, not steel, with a clean machined notch that accepts the plastic cap. They’re light, stiff, and resist corrosion. The spring tension is firm without being fussy—enough to hold a screen securely, but not so strong that compressing them is a chore. The plastic caps are rigid and latch positively onto the pin notch. The cap is the only plastic part in the assembly; if anything ages over time, it will be that, though the snap fit feels solid.

In the hand, they feel much sturdier than the typical all-plastic plungers that ship with many screens. The aluminum pin won’t mushroom or flare under normal use, and after repeated in-and-out cycles, the cap stayed tight. No rattling once installed, which is something I was watching for.

Installation: tools, steps, and a few tricks

I installed these both as replacements in existing holes and in new frames. For tools, here’s what I actually used:

• Drill and two bits (details below)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Small file or deburring tool
• Channel-lock pliers (or any wide-jaw pliers)
• Thin plastic shim or scrap cardstock
• Block of wood or stiff cardboard

Basic installation steps:
1. If you’re replacing old plungers, clear out broken parts. The old spring may slide deeper into the frame—fish it out or leave it if it won’t interfere.
2. Slide the coil spring over the narrow end of the aluminum pin.
3. From the outer edge of the frame, push the spring through the larger outer hole, then align the pin through the smaller inner hole so only the tip protrudes.
4. Hold a block or stiff cardboard against the protruding pin on the outside of the frame to keep it from backing out.
5. With the other hand, press the white cap onto the notched end inside the frame until it clicks. I found using channel-lock pliers made the snap effortless.

A couple of helpful tips:
- If you’re drilling new holes in a blank frame, use two separate bits: a small bit for the inner pin hole (5/32 inch) and a larger bit for the outer spring cavity (1/4 inch worked well in my frames). A stepped “2-in-1” bit tends to chatter and tear the spline channel.
- Slip a thin plastic shim or cardstock into the spline groove before drilling to avoid gouging it and to keep the hole cleaner.
- Deburr the holes lightly; small burrs can drag on the spring and reduce the pin’s travel.
- Measure twice. The pin needs enough travel to compress comfortably yet protrude into the window track by a few millimeters. If your frame is unusually thick, the 1 1/2-inch length may be short.

Once installed, compressing the pins to set the screen in or out is straightforward, and the caps give your fingers something to grip. I could install and remove screens one-handed without fighting the mechanism.

Fit and compatibility

Hardware like this lives or dies on fit. On several frames, the 5/32-inch pin dropped right into existing plunger holes with no drama. On a couple of older screens with oversized, wallowed-out holes, these pins were a bit small; I solved it by drilling fresh holes slightly offset and leaving the old ones in place. On one sliding window, the receiving slot in the window track was tight; a few passes with a small file gave the pin tip the clearance it needed.

What to check before buying:
- Existing pin diameter: if your old pins were larger than 5/32 inch, you may need to drill new holes for a snug fit.
- Hole spacing from the frame corner: make sure the plunger tip will land in the window’s receiving groove.
- Frame thickness: ensure there’s enough depth for the spring to sit in the outer cavity and still allow the cap to snap on.

The white cap profile is modest and didn’t interfere with screen spline or corner keys in any of the frames I tried. If your windows use unusually deep tracks or heavy storm frames, verify the travel distance from cap to pin tip suits your setup.

Day-to-day use

After installation, the difference versus plastic plungers is noticeable, mostly in feel. The aluminum pins glide smoothly and don’t flex or creak. Spring tension remained consistent through repeated cycles, and none of the caps loosened over a few weeks of on-and-off testing across multiple windows. Because the pin tips are metal, aligning the screen is easier; they don’t catch or shred on the track the way soft plastic sometimes does.

Noise and vibration were minimal. With the screens seated, there was no rattle—even on a breezy day—suggesting the spring tension is dialed in correctly. The white caps are discreet; they blend in with standard white frames but will stand out slightly on dark frames.

Durability outlook

Aluminum and coil springs hold up better than UV-exposed plastic, full stop. There’s less to degrade over time. The only variable is the cap, which is plastic, though it’s thicker and more rigid than typical stock parts. If it ages after years of sun, replacing just the cap would be ideal, though the kit doesn’t include extras. With 25 complete sets in the box, you’ll have plenty of spares.

No rusting so far, and the pins show no wear on the notch or tip. I’d expect these to last several seasons of routine removals and cleanings without fuss.

Value

This kit lands in the sweet spot for quantity and quality. A pack of 25 is more than most homeowners need in one go, but it’s excellent if you’re refreshing an entire house or want spares for future repairs. Compared to constantly replacing plastic plungers—or worse, wrestling screens into place without hardware—this is a cost-effective, low-friction fix. The made-in-USA claim will matter to some; build quality backs it up.

Limitations and small annoyances

• Springs arrive tangled. Not a big deal, but expect a few minutes of sorting.
• Sizing can be tricky with pre-drilled frames. If your existing holes are significantly larger or smaller than 5/32 inch, plan to drill new ones or lightly modify the receiving groove.
• The white caps are the only color option. On dark frames, they’re visible.
• If your window track is narrow, the pin tip may feel tight; a quick file job on the slot solves it, but it’s an extra step.

Who will appreciate these

• DIYers rehabbing older screens
• Property managers who need a reliable, repeatable fix across many units
• Anyone frustrated with brittle plastic pins and seasonal breakage
• People making new screens from scratch where drilling fresh, clean holes is easy

If you’re seeking a direct, tool-free swap for unusual or oversized legacy pins, this may require more tweaking than you want. For most standard frames, the fit is straightforward.

Tips before you start

• Measure existing pin diameter and hole spacing.
• Mark hole locations with an awl for cleaner drilling.
• Use two drill bits: 5/32 inch for the inner hole and about 1/4 inch for the spring cavity.
• Protect the spline channel with a shim while drilling.
• Use channel-lock pliers to snap caps on cleanly without stressing the frame.

Recommendation

I recommend these aluminum plunger pins for anyone replacing worn screen hardware or building new screens. They’re simple, sturdy, and provide a noticeably better feel than common plastic plungers. Installation is easy with basic tools, and once in, they hold screens securely without rattling. Just verify sizing against your frames and be prepared to drill clean, two-stage holes for best results. With those small considerations in mind, this kit is a dependable, long-lasting upgrade at a fair price.