U.S.Door and Fence Guardian Window Bar 3 in. Projection Bracket （4-Packs） Black for Window Security Bar Rust-Proof and Durable

A simple bracket that solves a tricky spacing problem

Window guards are only as good as the way they’re mounted. In my case, trim depth and an existing screen frame meant a flush mount wasn’t going to work. These 3-inch projection brackets provided the offset I needed without forcing a redesign of the guard itself, and they’ve held up well indoors and out.

Build and finish

The brackets are straightforward steel angles designed to stand a guard off the wall by a fixed 3 inches. The steel feels appropriately hefty; there’s no tinny flex in hand, and once installed, they don’t telegraph movement under moderate force. The finish is a two-step affair—galvanized under a black powder coat—which is exactly what I want for outdoor durability. The powder coat goes on evenly, edges are clean, and mine arrived free of burrs or chips.

Visually, the black finish disappears against most painted frames and sits nicely behind black guardwork. More importantly, after rain and dew cycles, I haven’t seen any orange creep from creases or fastener holes. If you’re in a coastal environment, I’d still touch up any scratched areas with a rust-inhibiting paint, but out of the box the corrosion resistance inspires confidence.

Each pack includes four brackets, enough for a typical guard with one bracket at each corner. If your opening is wider or you’re mounting an unusually heavy guard, you may want to add a mid-span support or choose a guard design with more mounting points, but for residential windows the four-point setup is standard and adequate.

Installation experience

The install was refreshingly uneventful, with a couple of caveats. The brackets ship with security-oriented one-way screws, 3 inches long, intended for mounting into wood. They install with a flat driver and tighten in one direction only, which makes removal difficult—good for security, less good if you anticipate moving the guard later. For removable installations, consider swapping to security Torx or another reversible fastener of similar length and grade.

On a double-hung window with wood framing, I marked out the bracket positions using a square and level, pre-drilled pilot holes (start small at 1/8 inch and open up to suit the screw shank), and waxed the threads for smoother driving into dense studs. Using a scrap of 3/4-inch material and a 2-1/4-inch spacer gave me a reliable 3-inch “story stick” to keep the standoff consistent while I set each bracket. That prevented any twist or yaw when I brought the guard up for final fastening.

On a basement casement set in block, I swapped to 1/4-inch masonry anchors (not included) and used a hammer drill with a carbide bit. If you’re mounting into brick, block, or poured concrete, plan on supplying your own anchors; the included wood screws aren’t appropriate there. A small tube of construction adhesive under each bracket foot is a nice touch to damp vibration before tightening the anchors, but it’s optional.

One note on hardware: the included screws are enough to attach the brackets to a wood substrate, but you may still need bolts, washers, and nuts to connect your particular window guard to the brackets. Hole patterns vary from guard to guard. I had the hardware on hand and matched it to the guard’s tabs. If your tabs or mounting ears are thinner than the bracket steel, a couple of flat washers per connection eliminate the chance of play.

Total time for the wood-framed install was under an hour including layout, and a bit longer for masonry because of drilling and vacuuming dust.

Fit and compatibility

The 3-inch stand-off is a sweet spot. It easily cleared my exterior trim and screen frame, and left enough room for window movement and airflow without pushing the guard so far out that it feels obtrusive. It also buys you space for alarm sensors and conduit if you’re running contacts on the sash. The brackets are forgiving in terms of guard style as long as the mounting ears can mate with the bracket holes. If your guard’s holes don’t line up, a simple drill-through at the bracket’s flat will solve it, but take care to recoat any fresh steel you expose.

I’ve seen installs where misalignment leaves a guard feeling wobbly even when the brackets are solid. The fix is to set the brackets plumb and square first, then bring the guard to the brackets and use shims or washers to take up any mismatch in tab thickness. Do not rely on cranking fasteners to pull things into alignment; you’ll introduce torsion and the guard will never sit right.

Security and stability

Once anchored into solid material, the brackets don’t budge. I put firm shoulder pressure on the guard after install—exactly what you’d expect from someone “testing” the opening—and saw no appreciable deflection at the bracket. The one-way screws add tamper resistance; they’re not invulnerable, but they meaningfully raise the bar over standard Phillips or hex-head screws.

A quick caveat: if these are going on a bedroom or any space that requires egress, verify that your guard includes an interior quick-release and that the bracket placement doesn’t obstruct its operation. Hardware that increases security must never compromise a safe exit in an emergency. That’s a building code issue and a common-sense one.

Durability so far

After weeks of exposure, including a couple of soaking storms and daily sun, the finish still looks new. No chalking, no rust halos around fasteners, and no creep under the powder coat at drilled holes. The brackets shed dirt easily; a mild soap-and-water wipe restored the satin black. If you’re in a high-salt environment, I’d schedule a quick annual inspection and touch up any nicks.

What I liked

• Honest, robust steel with a quality two-layer finish
• The 3-inch projection solves real-world clearance problems without custom fabrication
• Included one-way screws are actually long enough for secure wood installs
• Clean, low-profile look that blends with most window guards

What could be better

• The hardware pack is bare-bones. Expect to source anchors for masonry and bolts/washers to mate your specific guard to the brackets.
• No printed template or detailed instructions. A simple diagram with recommended pilot sizes and anchor guidance would help DIY users.
• A choice of projections (2, 3, and 4 inches) would cover more oddball trim or deep returns without resorting to shims.

Who these brackets are for

• Homeowners and landlords who need to stand a window guard off the wall to clear trim, screens, or sensors
• Care settings where a guard prevents pushing out screens while maintaining ventilation
• Basement and ground-floor windows where a standoff improves usability and appearance

Who might want to look elsewhere: renters who can’t modify framing, or anyone needing frequent removal—one-way screws aren’t friendly to iterative installs. If you’re not comfortable sourcing anchors or additional bolts, consider a guard kit that ships with a comprehensive hardware set.

Final recommendation

I recommend these projection brackets. They’re well-made, the finish resists weather, and the fixed 3-inch standoff solves a common installation challenge cleanly. Installation is straightforward if you have basic tools, and the security-focused fasteners are a thoughtful inclusion for wood framing. Just go in knowing you may need to supply your own masonry anchors and the bolts that match your guard’s mounting tabs. With that minor prep, the brackets deliver a solid, tidy, and durable mount you can trust.