KILZ 1-Part Epoxy Acrylic Concrete & Garage Floor Paint, Slate Gray, Satin, Interior/Exterior Concrete Paint for Basement Floors, Porches, Driveways & Pool Decks – 1 Gallon

Why I chose this floor paint

I needed a durable, low-odor coating for a two-car garage and a small outdoor pad that wouldn’t require mixing parts or rushing against a pot life. The KILZ 1‑Part Epoxy fit that brief: a water-based epoxy-acrylic in a satin slate gray that promises resistance to hot-tire pickup, scuffing, and fading, and is rated for both interior and exterior horizontal concrete. It’s residential-grade (no forklifts) and designed for properly prepared, porous concrete. That last phrase—properly prepared—turned out to be the entire ballgame.

Surface prep makes or breaks the outcome

If you’re looking for a coat-and-go product, this isn’t it. My best results came from a methodical prep routine:

• Degrease and rinse thoroughly, especially in a garage. Any oil or silicone contamination will haunt you.
• Pressure-wash or scrub to remove fines and laitance. I used a surface cleaner attachment to keep the nozzle height consistent.
• Let the slab dry completely. Trapped moisture is a common cause of adhesion issues on any concrete coating. I used a taped plastic sheet test overnight to check for vapor drive on the exterior pad.
• Address defects. Hairline cracks telegraph through paint. Anything wider than a hairline should be filled with a compatible patch compound and sanded flush.
• Ensure the surface is porous. Tightly troweled or power-finished concrete may need etching or mechanical profiling; you want the surface to feel like fine sandpaper, not glass.

I also masked bases and door thresholds and pulled garage doors off the floor slightly to avoid bonding to the weatherstripping.

Application: easy, but technique matters

This applies like a high-quality latex more than a two-part epoxy. It rolls smoothly and cleans up with soap and water. A few practical notes from my rollout:

• Mix thoroughly with a drill paddle. Pigment and solids settle hard; shovel from the bottom.
• Use a 3/8" nap roller for smooth slabs and a 1/2" for rougher broom-finish concrete.
• Apply thin, even coats and keep a wet edge. Cross-roll to even out texture.
• Don’t let it puddle in low spots. In depressions, the film can remain tacky far longer. Brush out puddles or fill low areas before painting.
• Work smaller sections outdoors on hot or sunny days; it flashes fast on warm concrete.

Coverage tracked close to the spec: roughly 300–400 sq ft per gallon on my smooth garage slab and closer to 250 sq ft per gallon on the rougher exterior pad. I planned on two coats everywhere. One coat looked presentable; the second brought uniform color and better hide over patched areas.

Odor was mild with doors open. That low-VOC character is a huge plus for basements and shops where ventilation can be limited.

Drying and cure

It dries to the touch quickly, but there’s a difference between dry and cured. I allowed light foot traffic later the same day and gave the garage a full week before parking a vehicle. That patience paid off: the coating hardened up nicely and resisted the typical hot-tire lift that plagues many latex floor paints.

If you’re on a tight schedule, resist the urge to rush heavy use—especially on dense slabs. Cure time is where 1‑part floor coatings either shine or fail.

Finish and appearance

The satin finish lands in a sweet spot—low sheen that hides minor surface irregularities without looking chalky. Slate gray is a practical, neutral color for garages and utility spaces. It hides dust well and makes oil drips obvious enough to spot and wipe before they stain.

If slip resistance is a concern (pool decks, outdoor steps), consider mixing in a fine anti-skid additive on the final coat. The satin sheen alone isn’t slippery in dry conditions, but any painted concrete can get slick when wet.

Durability indoors

Inside the garage and a basement landing, the coating has held up well. After full cure, I saw:

• No hot-tire pickup, even on 90°F+ days.
• Good resistance to oil and coolant; spills wiped clean without darkening the slab.
• Minor scuffs from dragging metal items and jack wheels—this is still a paint film, not a 2‑part industrial epoxy. Deep scrapes will mark or cut through.

I had one quarter-sized spot lift near the door where cleaning wasn’t as thorough; that’s on me, not the paint. Spot repairs feathered in easily after sanding.

Durability outdoors

Outdoors is tougher duty—UV, rain, and thermal cycling. The exterior pad looked great initially and still resists staining and tire scuffs. Over time, I did notice:

• Gradual color fade in full sun. It’s cosmetic but noticeable after extended exposure.
• Wear lines where I pressure wash frequently. The film is resilient, but high-pressure cleaning will erode any coating faster.

If your expectations are “factory-fresh” years later in direct sun, plan on periodic maintenance coats. The good news: recoat prep is straightforward—clean, lightly abrade glossy areas, and reapply a thin coat.

Where it fits—and where it doesn’t

This paint is well-suited for:
- Residential garages, basements, utility rooms
- Covered porches and screened patios
- Pool decks and driveways with proper prep and realistic expectations about UV fade

It’s not the right choice for:
- Vertical surfaces and stairs (it’s specified for horizontal only)
- Slabs with active moisture vapor transmission or hydrostatic pressure
- Commercial or forklift traffic
- Users expecting the hardness and chemical resistance of a 2‑part epoxy or polyaspartic system

If you want a decorative flake floor, you can broadcast chips into the final color coat, but plan on a compatible clear topcoat to lock them in and improve cleanability.

Tips for best results

• Do a moisture test before you paint, especially on below-grade slabs and exterior concrete.
• Plan your gallons realistically: smooth slabs ≈ 300–400 sq ft/gal; rough slabs ≈ 200–300 sq ft/gal per coat.
• Keep coats thin. Heavy application invites curing issues in low spots.
• Cut in edges and expansion joints first; then roll parallel to the longest wall, cross-rolling lightly to level.
• Avoid painting hot concrete in direct sun. Start in shade and chase it.
• Give it time to cure before vehicle traffic. It’s the difference between success and frustration.

Value and alternatives

The KILZ 1‑Part Epoxy sits in a practical middle ground. It costs more than off-the-shelf porch paint but far less than a professional 2‑part epoxy or polyaspartic system. You trade some ultimate hardness and chemical resistance for simplicity: no mixing, no short pot life, no special solvents, soap-and-water cleanup, and easy touchups. For residential use, that’s a sensible tradeoff.

If you need commercial-grade performance or want to embed decorative chips under a high-build clear, a 2‑part system is the better path. For most homeowners who prioritize low odor, manageable prep, and a clean, durable finish, this strikes a smart balance.

The bottom line

I’d recommend the KILZ 1‑Part Epoxy for residential garages, basements, and outdoor pads where you’re willing to invest in surface prep and give the coating adequate cure time. Indoors, it has proven resistant to hot-tire pickup, easy to clean, and attractive in a low-sheen slate gray. Outdoors, expect gradual UV fade and plan for periodic maintenance coats. It isn’t a substitute for a 2‑part epoxy in terms of ultimate hardness, but it offers a compelling mix of durability, ease of use, and low odor that fits the way most of us actually work on our homes.