Harvey's WM Harvey 043010 Stainless Plumbers Putty, 14 oz

A slow drip under a kitchen sink is a great reminder that plumbing success often hinges on simple materials done right. For sealing sink baskets, drains, and certain fixture bases, I keep a tub of Harvey’s plumbers putty in the kit. It’s a straightforward, off‑white compound that stays pliable, resists washout, and has just the right tack to help parts seat evenly. After several installs and a couple of re-installs with this putty, here’s how it measures up.

What this putty is for—and what it isn’t

Plumber’s putty is a non-curing sealant. You don’t use it like a glue or a gap-filling caulk; you use it to form a compressible gasket between two mating surfaces. That makes it ideal for:

• Sink basket strainers
• Sink drains and tailpiece flanges
• Some faucet bases and escutcheons (metal)
• Tub or shower drain flanges (metal)

Harvey’s formulation carries Federal Specification TT‑P‑1536A and is labeled as “stainless” putty, which in practice has meant no staining or discoloration on stainless or chrome finishes during my installs. It also claims it will not support bacteria—hard to verify at a glance, but it’s a nice reassurance in constantly wet areas.

Equally important: what it’s not for. Don’t use this on marble, synthetic marble, natural stone, concrete, or other porous materials. Also avoid plastic lavatories and plastic fixtures; the oils in traditional putty can interact with and even distort some plastics. If you’re working with those materials, use a siliconized tub sealant or 100% RTV silicone instead. And while we’re setting boundaries—this isn’t for pressurized joints or threads. For those, use thread sealant (pipe dope) or PTFE tape.

Workability and seal quality

Out of the tub, the consistency struck a nice balance: soft enough to roll a rope without cracks, but firm enough not to slump off the flange. It’s slightly tacky, which helps it stay in place while you position parts. I’ve had no issue forming even, bubble‑free rings around basket strainers and pop‑up drains.

Installation is immediate. Because putty doesn’t “cure,” you can snug a drain assembly right after forming your bead. As you tighten, expect a uniform squeeze-out around the perimeter—exactly what you want to see. I trim the excess with a plastic scraper and wipe the area with a dry cloth; a final pass with a towel lightly dampened with mild soap handles any residue. After tightening and cleanup, I typically fill the sink and check underneath. With this putty, I’ve consistently gotten a watertight result on the first try.

One advantage of a non-curing compound: reworkability. If you misalign the basket or don’t love the orientation, you can back off, reset the rope, and try again without waiting hours for a sealant to set. That’s especially helpful on older, out-of-round sinks or tired flanges where you need to finesse the fit.

Performance over time

I installed a new kitchen basket strainer and a bathroom sink drain using this putty and revisited both after several weeks. No seepage, no weeping, and no change in feel at the joint. Because the putty remains pliable, it continues to act as a gasket rather than a brittle filler—useful in areas that see minor expansion, contraction, or vibration.

Under normal service, it doesn’t wash out. The key is proper compression: a rope that’s slightly thicker than you think you need, steady tightening to pull the flange down evenly, and a final snug once the initial squeeze-out is cleaned up.

Compatibility and limitations

• Metals: Works well with stainless, chrome, and brass components. I’ve had no staining on metal finishes.
• Porous surfaces: Not recommended. If you’re setting a drain in a stone or composite sink, use an appropriate non-staining silicone designed for stone.
• Plastics: Avoid plastic lavatories and fixtures; use 100% RTV silicone instead.
• Temperature: Room temperature handling is best. In a cold garage, I warm a small portion in my hands for a minute to restore full pliability.

If you’re torn between putty and silicone on a metal sink: putty gives you reworkability and easy cleanup; silicone offers a more permanent, adhesive bond but is harder to adjust and service later. For standard metal sink baskets and drains, I prefer putty unless the manufacturer explicitly calls for silicone.

Odor and cleanup

There’s a faint, characteristic putty scent right out of the tub, but it’s subtle and dissipates quickly. It doesn’t off-gas like strong adhesives. Cleanup is simple: mechanical removal of squeeze-out, followed by a dry wipe and then a mild soap wipe if needed. Avoid harsh solvents; they’re unnecessary and can haze finishes.

The off‑white color blends well with most fixtures and disappears once the assembly is tightened and trimmed. It’s not meant to be visible, so color matching isn’t critical.

Packaging, storage, and longevity

The 14 oz tub is a practical size—enough for multiple projects without taking up space in the toolbox. The lid on my tub seated firmly, though I’d love a more positive snap to prevent accidental loosening during transport. I store it upright and make sure the rim is clean before closing; that helps the lid seal well.

Because it’s non-curing, the material keeps for a long time if you protect it from excessive heat and keep the tub closed. If it feels a bit stiff after sitting in a cold shop, knead a small amount in warm hands until it softens. You shouldn’t need to add oils or solvents; body heat and a bit of working usually bring it back to a smooth, rope-able texture.

Application tips

• Dry fit first: Make sure the flange seats flat and the mating surfaces are clean and dry. Remove old sealant and debris completely.
• Roll an even rope: Aim for a diameter slightly thicker than you think you need; a generous bead ensures full contact and prevents thin spots.
• Center the flange and tighten gradually: Tighten evenly to avoid distorting the gasket. Watch for uniform squeeze-out all around.
• Trim, wipe, then snug: After cleanup, a final snug tightens the assembly into its final position.
• Recheck after first use: Fill the basin, let it sit a few minutes, then inspect beneath. A quick check now prevents surprises later.

Value and who it’s for

This putty is a workhorse for DIYers and pros who regularly install or service drains and fixture bases on metal sinks. It’s uncomplicated, reliable, and forgiving—qualities I appreciate when I’m solving a leak in a hurry. The fact that it meets TT‑P‑1536A adds some confidence in consistency from tub to tub, and the bacteria-resistant claim is a thoughtful touch for long-term hygiene in wet zones.

If your projects often involve stone or plastic sinks, you’ll want to keep a tube of 100% RTV silicone alongside this tub, since those surfaces are off-limits for putty. For standard metal fixtures, though, this remains the faster, cleaner, and more serviceable option.

Verdict

Harvey’s plumbers putty does exactly what I need a non-curing sealant to do: it’s easy to shape, seats cleanly, seals reliably on first install, and stays pliable without staining metal finishes. Its limitations are clear—avoid porous stone and plastics—and the alternative (RTV silicone) is readily available for those cases. Packaging could be a touch more robust, but the material inside delivers consistent results.

Recommendation: I recommend this putty for anyone installing or servicing metal sink baskets, drains, and similar fixtures. It’s dependable, straightforward to use, and forgiving during setup, making it well suited to both first-time DIYers and seasoned tradespeople who value a clean, adjustable seal.