ARTOSHIN 1Pack Window Security Bar Adjustable Sliding Lock Security Stick for Rubber Tips, Adjustable Sliding Glass Door Lock Bars 15.7''-27.5'' Tension Rods 1.2'' Diameter Window Safety Lock Bar

Why I picked up this bar

I like simple, renter‑friendly ways to add a second layer of security to windows and sliders without drilling into trim. The ARTOSHIN window security bar is exactly that: a spring‑loaded steel tension rod with rubber end caps that wedges in place to keep a sash or sliding panel from opening beyond a set point. After a few weeks of moving it around my house—double‑hung windows, a small basement slider, and even a closet niche—I have a good feel for where it shines and where it falls short.

What it is

Think of this as a stout, 1.2‑inch‑diameter mini shower rod with better grip and a smoother, electrostatic‑sprayed finish. The bar extends from roughly the mid‑teens to the high‑20s in inches and uses an internal spring to maintain pressure between two surfaces. The rubber tips are flat, slightly pliable, and leave no marks on painted wood or vinyl in my tests.

A note on sizing from my sample: fully compressed, mine measured 16.5 inches tip‑to‑tip. If your opening is smaller than that, this bar won’t seat properly. On the long end, I’d avoid using it near maximum extension unless you truly need the length; like any tension rod, it’s strongest closer to the middle of its range.

Setup and fit

Installation is as straightforward as it gets:

• Twist to roughly the length you need.
• Place one end, compress slightly, seat the other end, then release.
• Fine‑tune with a small twist to increase or decrease pressure.

The spring provides the holding force, not a positive mechanical latch, so surface prep matters. Dusty tracks, glossy paint with furniture polish residue, or condensation can reduce grip. A quick wipe with a dry cloth on both contact points noticeably improved holding power. On painted wood, vinyl window frames, and anodized aluminum, the rubber tips held well. On glass or very slick tile, I could get it to creep under lateral load.

Where to place it depends on the window:

• Double‑hung/single‑hung: Mount vertically between the top of the moveable sash and the head jamb. This prevents the sash from being raised.
• Horizontal slider: Set it horizontally in the bottom track behind the sliding panel to limit travel, or vertically against the leading edge of the sliding panel and the frame to block movement at a chosen gap.
• Sliding door: The 27.5‑inch maximum limits use. You can use it to hold a small ventilation gap (say 6–24 inches), but it won’t span the full closed position of most patio doors. For typical doors, think of it as a “ventilation stopper,” not a full‑width lock bar.

Measure your intended span before you buy; the usable range is forgiving for most windows but not for standard patio doors.

Everyday security performance

For realistic household scenarios—keeping a first‑floor window cracked for air without making it easy to force, or preventing a curious child from flinging a sash open—the bar works well. I set a slider with a 6‑inch gap and pushed, tugged, and jostled from the outside. The bar didn’t budge, and the sash flexed before the tips slipped. On a double‑hung set vertically up top, a firm two‑hand tug couldn’t raise the sash.

It’s important to keep expectations in check. This is a friction‑based device. Against determined, high‑force attacks or flexy frames, a tension rod can be dislodged. Relative to a drilled pin lock or a track‑mounted keyed bar, this is a deterrent, not a substitute. Used in combination with the window’s own latch, it meaningfully increases resistance and buys time—the goal for most secondary devices.

Usability is a strong point. I expected to set it once and forget it, but the convenience means I actually use it daily: crack a window in the evening, drop the bar in place; remove it in the morning. The rubber tips don’t stick to paint, so one‑hand removal is easy, and the spring tension returns consistently without fiddling.

Build quality and feel

The steel tube has a smooth, even coating and no burrs on my unit. The threads turn cleanly with little play, and the internal spring feels evenly wound—no dead spots as you compress. At shorter spans (under ~22 inches) the bar feels very stiff laterally. Closer to its maximum extension, I can induce a faint bow under heavy hand pressure, which is expected for this form factor. The rubber tips are the right durometer: soft enough to conform to slight surface irregularities, firm enough to resist squirming.

Durability wise, after a few weeks of on/off use and a couple of accidental drops onto hardwood, the finish shows only minor scuffing. The electrostatic coating should help with rust resistance, but I wouldn’t leave it in a continuously wet environment. A quick dry if it gets damp is all it needs.

Versatility beyond windows

Unexpectedly, I ended up using the bar as a temporary rod in a closet to hang a few shirts while sorting laundry and as a quick mount for a blackout curtain panel inside a dormer. Within short spans on painted wood, it held about 5–7 pounds without creeping. This is squarely a “light duty” use case—think small curtains, string lights, or a handful of garments. If you try to span a slick, wide opening and load it up, it can slide.

For renters and anyone who wants reversible setups for holiday lights or temporary room dividers, it’s handy to have one extra bar around.

Limitations and gotchas

• Minimum length: My bar bottoms out at 16.5 inches. If you’re counting on it for a 16‑inch opening, it won’t fit. Measure, don’t estimate.
• Not a patio‑door lock replacement: The max 27.5 inches rules out fully blocking most standard sliding doors when closed. Use it for ventilation gaps or vertically as a secondary blocker if your door geometry allows.
• Surface sensitivity: Dust, oils, or condensation reduce grip. Clean the contact points and re‑check tension after big temperature swings, especially on vinyl frames that expand/contract.
• Friction, not fail‑safe: Against high force or frame flex, any tension bar can pop free. Pair it with the window’s existing latch or a fixed stop for best results.
• Near max extension: The bar is strongest in the mid‑range. If you must run it close to 27.5 inches, increase tension and consider adding a secondary stop for important openings.

Tips for best results

• Seat it into a structural lip rather than flat drywall whenever possible. Even a small track ridge helps resist lateral movement.
• Add a slight upward or downward bias when setting horizontally; the tiny angle increases bite.
• Keep the rubber tips clean. A quick wipe with isopropyl alcohol improves grip on glossy paint.
• Mark your favorite ventilation position with a small piece of painter’s tape inside the track for quick repeatable placement.

Who it’s for

• Renters or homeowners who want a no‑drill secondary lock for windows.
• Parents and pet owners who need to limit openings safely for airflow.
• Anyone wanting a compact, reversible bar that doubles as a light‑duty tension rod around the house.

If you need a high‑security solution for vulnerable entries, look at keyed track locks, pin locks, or screw‑mounted bars. If your openings are below 16.5 inches or you need to span a full patio door width, this specific size won’t be the right fit.

Final take

The ARTOSHIN bar hits the sweet spot for ease, everyday usability, and light‑to‑moderate security. It’s quick to set, gentle on finishes, and strong enough to make a noticeable difference in how easily a window can be forced open. The finish is tidy, the spring action is consistent, and the rubber tips grip well when surfaces are clean.

Its constraints are clear: a real 16.5‑inch minimum, diminishing rigidity at the longest extension, and the inherent limits of friction‑based security. Accept those, and it becomes a very practical tool you’ll actually use—precisely what I want from a secondary window lock.

Recommendation: I recommend this bar for windows and small sliders as a renter‑friendly, adjustable secondary stop and for light‑duty tension‑rod tasks around the home. It offers solid value and day‑to‑day convenience. I wouldn’t choose it as the sole security measure for high‑risk entries or for spanning a full‑size patio door; pair it with a proper lock or pick a longer, fixed bar in those cases.