Forced Air Electric Construction Heater (10/7 kW)

Features

  • Two heat output modes: 10 kW (high) or 7 kW (low)
  • Can be operated on either a 50 A (10 kW) or 30 A (7 kW) circuit
  • Dual coil support (top and bottom) for reduced transport noise and extended coil support
  • Recessed controls to protect switches and knobs from damage
  • Thermostatically controlled (adjustable range)
  • Thermal protection (overheat protection)
  • Fan‑only setting for air circulation
  • Designed and certified for unattended jobsite heating
  • No power cord supplied — intended for direct wiring

Specifications

Output (K W) 10 kW / 7 kW
Output (Btu/Hr) 34,121 BTU/hr / 23,884 BTU/hr
Airflow (Cfm) 350 CFM
Rated Power (W) 10,000 W
Voltage 240 V (single phase)
Current (A) Approximately 42 A (10 kW) / 28 A (7 kW)
Minimum Breaker 2‑pole 50 A required for 10 kW; 2‑pole 30 A required for 7 kW
Phase Single
Thermostat Range 25°F – 95°F (approx.)
Number Of Heat Settings 2
Intended Area (Manufacturer Estimate) Up to ~850 sq. ft.
Weight 37 lb (approx.)
Dimensions (H × W × D) 18.5 in × 14.5 in × 25 in
Cord Length / Plug No cord supplied (requires direct wiring)
Certifications ETL Listed
Warranty 1 Year Limited Warranty
Power / Fuel Type Electric

Thermostatically controlled forced‑air electric construction heater with two selectable heat outputs (10 kW or 7 kW). Intended for jobsite, garage, or similar large‑space heating applications. The unit requires a hardwired 240 V connection (no integrally supplied plug) and includes thermal protection, recessed controls, and dual coil supports for element stability.

Model Number: DXH1000TS

DeWalt Forced Air Electric Construction Heater (10/7 kW) Review

4.5 out of 5

What it is and who it’s for

The DeWalt electric jobsite heater is a 240‑volt, hardwired, forced‑air unit built to warm large spaces without combustion fumes or open flames. With two heat outputs—7 kW (low) and 10 kW (high)—it’s aimed at garages, shops, and jobsites where ventilation for gas/kerosene isn’t feasible or desired, and where a robust electrical supply is available. Think new builds, winter punch‑list work, or a home shop that you’d like to actually use in January.

If you’ve lived with torpedo heaters, this is a different experience: cleaner air, steadier heat, and no fuel runs. It’s not a space toaster; it’s a high‑airflow heater that raises the temperature of the whole room rather than blasting you with scorching, localized air.

Setup and power requirements

This unit ships without a power cord and is intended to be hardwired. Plan on involving a licensed electrician. On high (10 kW), you need a 240 V, single‑phase, two‑pole 50 A circuit; on low (7 kW), a 30 A two‑pole is sufficient. Current draw is roughly 42 A on high and 28 A on low. Wire sizing, breaker choice, and any disconnect requirements vary by local code, so don’t shortcut this step.

Hardwiring has its upsides: a secure connection, fewer points of failure, and clear compliance on a jobsite. The downside is obvious—you lose plug‑and‑play flexibility. If you’ll move it between spaces frequently, plan that into your electrical layout.

Dimensions are manageable (about 18.5 × 14.5 × 25 in) and the 37 lb weight is light enough for one person to carry, though you’ll want a clear path and a stable landing spot; it’s still a metal box with a serious heating element inside.

Heating performance

On paper, 10 kW equates to about 34,000 BTU/hr, and 7 kW to roughly 24,000 BTU/hr. In practice, this heater’s 350 CFM fan spreads that heat evenly. I used it in a well‑sealed, roughly 600 sq. ft. insulated garage. From near‑freezing, the high setting brought the space into the comfortable 60s relatively quickly and, importantly, kept it there without cycling wildly. Once the slab and contents warmed, I could drop to the 7 kW setting and maintain.

In a larger, draft‑prone area, the high setting has enough capacity to overcome infiltration, but don’t expect “instant summer.” The outlet air doesn’t feel scorching, and that’s by design—high airflow at a moderate discharge temperature warms the space more uniformly and is less likely to create hot spots or unpleasant radiant blast. If you want a quick jumpstart in a very cold, leaky space, a short burst from a combustion heater can get you moving faster; this DeWalt excels at steady, clean, sustained heat.

The built‑in thermostat is effective. There’s a wide adjustable range (roughly mid‑20s to mid‑90s °F), and once set, the unit cycles the heating element to hold temperature within a reasonable band. It’s better at maintenance than at recovery—once you’re warm, it keeps you there comfortably.

Manufacturer guidance pegs coverage at up to roughly 850 sq. ft., which aligns with my experience for insulated spaces. In poorly insulated structures, think more in terms of temperature lift relative to outside rather than square footage.

Airflow and noise

Fan noise is present, but it’s a steady whoosh without the harsh drone or combustion roar you get from fuel‑burning heaters. Conversation is easy nearby, and I didn’t find it fatiguing over a workday.

One quirk: the fan runs whenever the unit is powered on, regardless of whether the element is energized. That’s good for even temperature and coil longevity, but if you’re expecting the fan to stop between heating cycles, it doesn’t. There’s only one fan speed. I’d love a low‑speed option for night setback in smaller rooms, but the fixed speed keeps air mixing consistent and prevents hot spotting.

There’s also a fan‑only mode. It’s handy for air circulation on mild days or for helping dry finishes without adding heat.

Controls and safety

Controls are recessed behind the front grille area, which helps prevent accidental knocks during transport or on busy jobsites. The switches feel positive, and the thermostat knob has a sensible range and repeatability—once you find a setpoint you like, it’s easy to return to it.

Thermal protection is built in; if the unit overheats due to blocked intake/outlet or fault conditions, it trips to protect the elements. It’s ETL listed and, notably, designed and certified for unattended jobsite operation. That doesn’t mean ignoring basic safety—maintain clearances, don’t drape materials over it, and follow site policies—but it’s reassuring when you need steady heat after hours to keep materials and space above a certain temperature.

Build quality

It’s a solid, no‑nonsense steel chassis with smart touches that matter in the field. Dual coil supports top and bottom stabilize the element, cutting down on transport rattle and the “singing” you sometimes hear from large electric elements as they expand and contract. The finish has held up to transport and occasional bumps. Service access is straightforward with standard fasteners; there aren’t unnecessary plastics or delicate trim to crack.

At 37 lb, it hits a nice balance: substantial enough to sit firmly, light enough to reposition as the job evolves. The footprint is compact relative to its output, so it doesn’t dominate your staging area.

Operating costs

Electric heat is 100% efficient at point of use, but kWh aren’t free. At 10 kW, you’re drawing 10,000 W. Rough cost per hour:

  • $0.12/kWh utility rate: about $1.20/hr
  • $0.15/kWh: about $1.50/hr
  • $0.20/kWh: about $2.00/hr

On the 7 kW setting, scale those numbers by 0.7. Depending on local energy prices and how you value the absence of fumes, moisture, and CO risk, the economics can pencil out favorably against propane and kerosene—especially where fuel delivery is a hassle or emissions are prohibited indoors. If your power is expensive, you’ll feel it; budget accordingly.

Real‑world usability

  • Two heat levels are genuinely useful. Being able to match a 30 A or 50 A feed extends where and how you can deploy it.
  • The even heat and continuous fan keep temperature consistent across a room, which matters for adhesives, paints, and joint compounds that don’t love cold corners.
  • The fan‑only option is a sleeper feature—circulation accelerates drying and evens out stratification in tall spaces.
  • The “no cord included” choice makes sense for a jobsite tool, but it’s a surprise if you expect a plug‑in heater. Plan your wiring from day one.

What I’d improve

  • Add a low fan speed. At times, the fixed high airflow is more than needed, and a quieter circulation mode would be welcome when maintaining temperature overnight.
  • Offer an accessory cord kit with proper strain relief, lugs, and labeling for those jurisdictions and use cases where a plug‑and‑receptacle connection is acceptable. Even if hardwiring remains the default, a manufacturer‑approved option would reduce guesswork.
  • Include clearer setpoint markings on the thermostat dial. The wide range is great; finer scale makes repeatability easier across projects.

Alternatives and where this fits

If you need fastest possible warm‑up in a drafty shell with minimal electrical capacity, a high‑BTU propane/kerosene “torpedo” heater will jumpstart temperatures quickly—but you’ll need ventilation, you’ll add moisture with some fuels, and the noise is significant. If you have robust 240 V power and want clean, quiet, even heat you can leave unattended under a thermostat, this DeWalt shines. It’s also a smart pick for garages and shops where you’d rather not store or burn fuel indoors.

Heat pumps are stellar for permanent installations and efficiency, but they’re not the right tool for a temporary jobsite where portability, durability, and simplicity rule. This unit fills that portable, heavy‑duty electric niche well.

Bottom line

The DeWalt electric jobsite heater delivers dependable, even heat with the safety and simplicity of electric power. It’s thoughtfully built—recessed controls, solid coil support, sensible thermostat—and powerful enough at 10 kW to handle mid‑size spaces, with a 7 kW mode that broadens its usefulness on 30 A circuits. The constant‑run fan and lack of a supplied cord are the main compromises, and operating costs depend heavily on your utility rate. But as a tool for clean, unattended, all‑day heat, it does exactly what it promises.

Recommendation: I recommend this heater to anyone who has 240 V capacity available and needs reliable, fume‑free heat for a garage, shop, or jobsite. It’s efficient at turning electricity into usable warmth, it holds temperature steadily, and it’s built for the realities of construction work. Budget for the electrical setup, accept the continuous fan, and you’ll get a durable, low‑maintenance heater that’s easy to live with and easy to trust.



Project Ideas

Business

Construction Finishing Climate Control

Offer a service to maintain temperature for drywall, paint, flooring adhesives, and millwork installs in winter. Provide setup, safe clearances, and monitoring on 240 V 30/50 A circuits; bundle with dehumidifiers and job logs to keep schedules on track.


Emergency Heat Rental + Install

Launch a heater rental line for GCs and facility managers. You handle delivery, hardwired hookup to 2‑pole 30 A/50 A breakers, thermostat programming, and pickup. Sell weekly rates with optional after-hours service calls.


Water Damage Drying Assist

Partner with restoration companies to provide clean electric heat for accelerated drying after leaks. Use low setting and fan-only for air movement, coordinate with dehumidification, and document temperature/relative humidity to support insurance claims.


Warehouse/Shop Zone Heating Packages

Design and install targeted heating for packing stations, machine bays, or break areas in light industrial spaces that already have 240 V available. Offer seasonal service contracts that include safety inspections and thermostat optimization for energy savings.


Epoxy Floor Install Support

Provide temporary climate control for floor coating contractors to ensure substrate and ambient temps meet product specs. Offer day-rate packages that include preheat, cure hold, and post-cure ventilation using the fan-only mode.

Creative

Epoxy/Resin Cure Tent

Build a collapsible insulated tent (rigid foam or double-wall poly film) to warm-cure epoxy surfboards, kayaks, or countertops at 70–90°F. Use the heater’s thermostat to hold temperature and fan-only to equalize air, reducing bubbles and blush while speeding cure times in cold garages.


Finish-Drying Booth for Woodworking

Create a dust-controlled drying booth for paint, lacquer, or oil finishes on furniture. Pair the heater’s low (7 kW) setting with simple intake filters and a small exhaust gap to maintain 65–80°F and gentle positive pressure, accelerating dry time and minimizing dust nibs.


Winter Greenhouse Microclimate

Set up a small hoop-house or grow tent and use the thermostat to maintain frost-free temps (50–60°F) for overwintering plants or starting seedlings. The 350 CFM airflow helps mix warm air to prevent cold pockets around trays.


Clay and Plaster Drying Room

Convert a spare room or insulated closet into a low-temp drying room for ceramics or plaster molds. Run in fan-only for airflow, and on heat at 65–75°F to gently speed drying, reducing cracking and uneven moisture.


Warm Yoga/Garage Studio Conversion

Turn a garage bay into a warm yoga or stretching studio through winter. The recessed controls and thermostat let you hold 85–95°F, and fan-only mode can be used between classes for air circulation without adding heat.