RESHARK 4 Pcs PVC Pipe Reamer Kit, PVC Fitsting Saver, Plastic Pipe Fitsting Reamer Socket Saver Plumbing Tool Includes 1'', 1 1/4'', 1 1/2'', 2'' for Schedule 40 Fits Standard 1/2" Drill

What it is and why I reached for it

I spend a fair amount of time retrofitting pools, spas, and oddball remodels where a glued fitting is buried behind finish work or tied into an expensive valve. Cutting out a section isn’t always an option, and heating-and-chiseling a hub is slow and risky. That’s exactly where the RESHARK reamer kit earns its keep: it lets you remove the stub of pipe and old solvent cement from inside Schedule 40 PVC, CPVC, and ABS fittings so you can reuse the original hub.

This set covers four common sizes—1", 1-1/4", 1-1/2", and 2"—and runs in any 1/2" drill at low speed. If you’ve never used a fitting saver, think of it as a self-centering counterbore that eats the old pipe from inside the fitting without chewing up the hub itself.

Build and design

Each reamer is housed in an anodized, CNC-machined aluminum body with a steel hex shank, and the cutting edge is a four-sided, indexable alloy blade. After a few fittings, I rotated a cutter 90 degrees with a hex key and was back to a fresh edge in under a minute. That design is a big value add: you effectively get four cutting edges per tool before you need a replacement blade.

The machining is clean, tolerances are tight, and the reamers run true if your drill chuck is in good shape. There’s enough mass in the bodies to resist chatter, but not so much weight that you’re fighting the tool in awkward positions. The hex shank gives a positive bite in the chuck and helps with torque transfer.

A few notes on compatibility: this kit is for Schedule 40 plastics only. It’s not for Schedule 80, and certainly not for metal. Stay in its lane and it does exactly what it’s supposed to do.

Setup and technique

The learning curve is short, but technique matters:

• Use a drill with a side handle, variable speed, and good low-RPM torque. For the 1-1/2" and 2" sizes, a stout 1/2" corded drill made life easier. Strong 18V/20V drills will work, but expect more kickback.
• Clamp your work. If the fitting is attached to a run, brace the run; if it’s loose, mount it in a vise with soft jaws. Letting the fitting spin is how you crack something.
• Mark your depth. I wrap blue tape on the reamer body to mark the hub depth so I don’t bottom out and scar the fitting.
• Slow and steady. Run the drill slow, keep the body square to the fitting, and let the cutter feed itself. Back out frequently to clear chips. A mist of water helps keep heat down on longer cuts.

Follow that playbook and you’ll get clean, concentric bores ready for fresh primer and cement.

In-use performance

I ran the kit through a cross-section of real-world tasks: salvaging a 2" ABS tee on a spa heater manifold, reclaiming a 1-1/4" PVC elbow behind a vanity, and cleaning a 1-1/2" union at a pool pump.

• 1" and 1-1/4": These are almost effortless. At low RPM the reamer bites immediately, cuts without melting, and clears a fitting in under a minute. The resulting surface had faint tooling marks but no gouges; a quick pass with a deburring tool or scotch-brite made it look new.
• 1-1/2": Still smooth going, but torque reaction starts to matter. With a proper side handle and steady alignment, I had no stalls or binding. The blade stayed cool with periodic chip-clearing.
• 2": This is the size where your setup matters most. On a heavy tee with the branch well supported, I got a clean bore in a few minutes. When I tried to go too fast or got slightly cocked, the reamer let me know by grabbing. Backing out, re-squaring, and reducing speed solved it.

Across PVC, CPVC, and ABS, the cutters removed material cleanly. If you crank the speed, you will generate heat and smearing; stay slow and it cuts instead of melts. I didn’t see any hub damage when I respected the depth mark and kept the tool square.

Where it shines

• Repair and retrofit: Reusing valves, unions, tees, and elbows without re-plumbing a run saves time and prevents new failure points.
• Tight spaces: In pump rooms and under sinks, making a hub reusable is often the only practical option.
• Cost control: Salvaging a $40–$150 fitting or valve pays for the kit quickly, and you avoid the labor of cutting out and rebuilding assemblies.

I also like that the indexed blade design gets you multiple lives per cutter. If you’re careful with speed and chip evacuation, an edge lasts a surprisingly long time before you need to rotate it.

Limitations and cautions

• Not for Schedule 80: The wall thickness and material density aren’t a match for this design. Respect that limitation.
• Torque is real at larger sizes: The 2" head can whip a drill if you’re off-center or rushing. Use a side handle, keep both hands on the drill, and clamp the work.
• Depth control is on you: There’s no built-in stop, so mark the hub depth and pay attention. Over-boring will ruin a fitting.
• Doesn’t fix bad hubs: If a hub is cracked, out-of-round, or solvent-welded with massive misalignment, this tool can’t perform miracles. Know when to walk away.

Durability and maintenance

The anodized bodies shrug off scuffs and corrosion, and the shanks haven’t marred under heavy use. The indexable blades hold an edge well when run at the right speed. Heat is the enemy here: if you run too fast and melt plastic onto the cutter, you’ll dull edges prematurely and increase binding.

Maintenance is straightforward:

• Brush off chips and wipe the cutter clean after each use.
• If plastic smears onto the blade, scrape it off before it hardens.
• Rotate the blade when you notice more feed pressure or stringing chips.
• A light drop of oil on the set screws helps keep indexing smooth.

I’d love to see spare cutters readily available; the four-sided design stretches their life, but frequent users will eventually want replacements on hand.

Tips for best results

• Score and square: If there’s a jagged stub, square it with a flush-cut saw before reaming. The tool will center more reliably.
• Start with a kiss: Touch the cutter to the pipe stub and let it self-center before applying pressure.
• Clear chips often: Every few seconds, back out to eject chips. It keeps the cut cool and smooth.
• Cool if needed: A little water reduces heat on long cuts and keeps the blade cleaner.
• Finish the hub: After reaming, a quick scrape and wipe prepares the surface for primer and cement.

What I’d change

• A simple storage case would keep the four reamers and a hex key together.
• A depth collar or removable stop ring for common hub depths would help newer users avoid over-boring.
• Clearer guidance on drill speed (actual RPM ranges) and safety in the instructions would be welcome, especially for the 2" head.

None of these are deal-breakers, but they’d make a good kit even better.

Verdict

The RESHARK reamer kit does exactly what a fitting saver should: it lets you reclaim Schedule 40 fittings quickly, cleanly, and with predictable results. The build quality inspires confidence, the indexable cutters stretch consumable life, and the four included sizes cover most of the fittings I encounter in residential and light commercial work.

It isn’t a magic wand—proper clamping, a drill with a side handle, and patience at low RPM are essential, especially at 2 inches. And it won’t rescue every problem fitting. But used correctly, it turns many “cut it all out and start over” situations into straightforward repairs.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit to plumbers, facility techs, and serious DIYers who work with Schedule 40 PVC, CPVC, or ABS. It saves time, protects existing assemblies, and pays for itself the first time you reuse a pricey fitting. Just respect its limitations, gear up with the right drill and technique, and it will earn a permanent spot in your plumbing kit.