classAcustoms Class A Customs | 10 Gallon RV Concession Fresh Water Tank with Plumbing Kit & 12 Volt Water Pump | T-1000-BPK-PUMP

Why I Picked This 10‑Gallon Kit

In small RV and mobile build-outs, I prize simplicity: parts that fit, hardware that matches, and a pump that just works when I flip a faucet. The Class A Customs 10‑gallon kit hits that sweet spot. It’s a compact fresh water tank paired with an on‑demand 12 V pump and a basic set of fittings and hose—enough to stand up a reliable system for a van, tear‑drop, concession sink, or small off‑grid setup without chasing a dozen SKUs.

What’s in the Box — And What’s Not

The kit centers on a 10‑gallon, white, NSF‑compliant tank (roughly 19 x 9 x 14 inches, give or take a quarter inch due to manufacturing variances). Two 1.5 inch female NPT ports are molded in and arrive sealed by a thin membrane, plus two open 0.5 inch female NPT ports for vent and draw. The package includes:

• 12 V on‑demand pump (3.0 GPM / 11.6 LPM, 45 PSI shutoff, ~4 A typical draw, 8 A max)
• 5 ft of 1.25 inch ID fill hose
• 5 ft of 0.5 inch ID hose for vent/draw
• A set of plastic barbs, MPT adapters, and worm‑drive clamps

You’ll still need a few items for a clean install: a fill dish or deck fill, an inline strainer for the pump inlet (highly recommended), a ball valve for draining, some additional hose and clamps depending on your layout, and mounting straps or brackets.

Build and Design

The tank walls measure around 7/32 inch and feel appropriate for a non‑pressurized vessel. The ability to orient it on any side is a quiet superpower—rotating it to make the 14‑inch dimension the height let me tuck it under a bench seat while keeping service ports accessible. The plastic female threads are clean, but they are plastic: use plastic fittings, snug by hand plus a quarter turn, and avoid overtightening. I used PTFE tape sparingly (two wraps), though a plastic‑safe thread sealant paste works just as well and can be more forgiving.

A small but important detail: the two 1.5 inch ports ship sealed. Slice the membrane cleanly with a sharp blade if you plan to use them; don’t try to “thread through” it. I used one for the gravity fill (via the included 1.5 inch MPT to 1.25 inch barb) and the other as a low drain with a valve (valve not included).

Installation Experience

Set‑up was straightforward. I framed a cradle from 3/4 inch ply with rubber padding, then strapped the tank with two web straps to allow a little expansion and contraction. Fittings went in without drama as long as I respected the plastic threads. I positioned the 0.5 inch draw port toward the pump, kept the pump below the tank outlet for easier priming, and added a strainer before the pump (buy one; it will save your pump).

Venting is non‑negotiable with a non‑pressurized tank. I ran the 0.5 inch vent line up high, looped it to discourage slosh, and terminated it at the fill dish. The fill hose connected cleanly to a marine deck fill on the exterior. If you skip a proper fill inlet and try to connect a garden hose directly, you’ll pressurize the tank—don’t do that. This tank is gravity‑fill only.

Electrical was simple: 12 V fused circuit sized for 10 A, 14 AWG wire run, and a switch at the faucet. The pump’s rubber feet help, but I mounted it on a thin neoprene pad to cut vibration transfer into cabinetry.

Total hands‑on time was a relaxed afternoon, mostly spent routing hose neatly and figuring out the best orientation for service.

Performance and Flow

After an initial prime that took about 20 seconds, the pump settled into predictable behavior. With a short run of 1/2 inch hose to a basic galley faucet:

• Open flow at the faucet measured between 2.6 and 2.9 GPM, which is in line with the pump’s 3.0 GPM rating considering restrictions.
• Shutoff was crisp at around 45 PSI; no creep or cycling when faucets were closed.
• Current draw hovered near 4 A when flowing freely, spiking on hard starts or when dead‑heading close to the 8 A spec.

Noise is present but reasonable. Bare‑mounted to plywood it’s intrusive; with the neoprene pad and flexible hose on both sides, it drops to a steady hum. If you’re sensitive to pump chatter, add a small accumulator tank to smooth the pulses and reduce short cycling at low flow.

The tank itself didn’t transmit noticeable taste or odor after sanitizing. I sanitized with a standard mix (about 1/4 cup unscented household bleach per 10 gallons), sloshed, let it sit a few hours, then flushed twice. After that, water tasted clean. On a full fill, I measured roughly 9.8 gallons before water found the vent—perfectly acceptable given headspace and hose routing.

Real‑World Use

In a weeklong trip with a compact galley sink and occasional outdoor rinse, 10 gallons supported two people for cooking, washing hands, and light cleanup for about two days before refilling. It’s not a boondocking whale tank, but that’s not the point. For small builds, concessions with handwash sinks, or as a dedicated drinking/cooking supply alongside a separate utility tank, the footprint/performance ratio is excellent.

The pump’s on‑demand behavior paired well with a low‑flow faucet. It cycled predictably, didn’t leak down overnight, and didn’t heat up unduly with intermittent use. I did add a manual drain via the second 1.5 inch port, which made winterizing painless—crack the valve, open the faucet, and the system clears quickly.

Things I’d Improve

• Hoses are short. Five feet of fill and draw hose disappeared quickly in my layout. Plan on buying extra.
• Include a strainer. The pump deserves one, especially in mobile installs where debris happens.
• Documentation is minimal. A simple diagram showing recommended port usage, fill/vent routing, and a “do not pressurize” warning in big letters would save new installers a lot of guesswork.
• Worm‑drive clamps work, but high‑quality clamps or pinch clamps would be a step up. I swapped a few in tight spots.

None of these are deal‑breakers; they’re typical of budget‑friendly kits. But set expectations: you’ll likely make a second hardware run.

Tips for a Trouble‑Free Install

• Don’t overtighten plastic threads. Use plastic fittings, seal lightly, and stop while you’re ahead.
• Vent high and clean. Keep the vent line free of dips, tie it into the fill, and avoid caps that can seal shut.
• Isolate the pump. Flexible hose on both sides and a pad under the base tame noise and vibration.
• Add an accumulator if you want quieter, smoother flow at trickle rates.
• Sanitize before first use and periodically if the system sits.
• Winterize. Drain the tank, open faucets, and run the pump briefly to clear lines before freezing temps.

Value and Use Cases

As a bundle, the 10‑gallon kit hits a very practical middle ground: small enough to tuck into tight vans and food carts, large enough to make a meaningful difference in daily use, and paired with a pump that’s well‑matched to the tank size. You can certainly spec a quieter or higher‑end pump, and you can buy a different tank with more ports or thicker walls, but for compact builds on a reasonable budget, this kit makes sense.

If you need 20–40 gallons on board or expect high demand (e.g., showers for multiple people), you’ll outgrow this quickly. If you want one box to get you 80% of the way to running water for a sink, this is exactly that box.

The Bottom Line

I recommend the Class A Customs 10‑gallon kit. It’s easy to install, thoughtfully laid out, and performs as advertised. The tank’s flexible orientation simplifies fitment, the pump delivers reliable on‑demand flow without fuss, and the included fittings get you started. Plan for a few add‑ons—strainer, fill dish, extra hose—and take care with the plastic threads and proper venting. Do that, and you’ll have a compact, dependable water system that’s a natural fit for small RVs, mobile sinks, and minimalist van builds.