Bluex Bulbs 2 Pack PAR30 Outdoor LED Flood Light Bulb 12W 100 Watt Equivalent 900 Lumens Dimmable Waterproof E26 3000K Warm White LED Flood Light Bulbs for Security Spotlight Recessed Bulb

Why I tried these PAR30s

I was looking for a warm, focused outdoor lamp that wouldn’t turn my driveway into a sterile white stage but would still give me enough punch for security and wayfinding. The Bluex PAR30 LEDs hit the right spec sheet notes: 12 watts, 900 lumens, 3000K warm white, about a 40° beam, E26 base, and dimmable. I installed a two-pack in a motion-activated dual-head flood over my garage and added another pair under a covered soffit to keep pathways lit. After living with them through late evenings, dawn/dusk cycles, and a few storms, here’s how they’ve fared.

Light quality and throw

The 3000K tone is exactly what I hoped for outdoors—warm without drifting yellow, with enough contrast to keep edges crisp. It complements brick and siding better than the 4000–5000K “security white” look, and it’s easier on the eyes if you’re pulling into the driveway at night. While the manufacturer doesn’t list CRI, color rendition is good enough for general outdoor tasks and signage; I wouldn’t pick these for color-critical work, but for facades, paths, and a flag, the color is flattering and consistent.

With a stated 40° beam, these are closer to a wide flood than a tight spot. In practice, two heads mounted about nine feet up easily cover a two-car driveway with a smooth pool of light and soft edges, avoiding harsh hotspots. If you need long-throw illumination across a large yard or to pick out treetops, you’ll want a narrower beam or higher lumen lamp. But for residential areas—driveway, walkway, porch, soffit—this beam pattern is right on the money.

As for brightness, 900 lumens per lamp is bright, but the “100W equivalent” claim is generous if you’re comparing to older halogen PARs. Halogen PAR30s often had higher center-beam intensity, which can appear punchier at distance. These LEDs deliver a comfortable, usable brightness without being blinding; they prioritize coverage and comfort over sheer reach.

Dimming and control behavior

On a Lutron digital dimmer, the lamps dimmed smoothly with no audible hum and no visible flicker. They held stable down to a low level—around the 10–15% range—before drop-out, which is typical for many LED floods. On a motion-activated fixture, they were instant-on with no warmup lag and no strobing when the sensor fired. If you plan to dim them for ambience under soffits or in a patio setting, they behave well, but as always, match them with a quality, LED-rated dimmer for best results.

Build and thermal design

These bulbs are notably lightweight compared with older aluminum-bodied PARs. The body feels more composite than metal, with a sturdy lens and a clean seam at the collar. The upside: less strain on adjustable floodlight heads and no corrosion concerns. The trade-off: less thermal mass to wick heat. LEDs live and die by heat management, so a lighter body puts more emphasis on how well the electronics are designed. In use, they get warm, not hot, and have been stable through long evening runs. I can’t speak to decade-long longevity yet, but thermals seem under control in typical residential use.

Fit and finish are tidy; the E26 base threads smoothly, and the form factor sits flush in both my flood heads and recessed soffit cans. If you’re replacing older PAR30 long-neck halogens, check your trim depth—these fit the standard profile and did not protrude awkwardly.

Weather resistance: the fine print

These are rated for damp locations. That’s perfect under eaves, covered porches, and soffits, and generally fine in motion-flood heads that have a hood or partial shielding. I would not use them in a fixture exposed directly to driving rain or where water can pool; for fully exposed locations, look for “wet location” ratings. The packaging described them as waterproof, but the rating language matters—treat them as damp-rated and pair them with appropriate fixtures outdoors.

Efficiency and operating cost

At 12W for roughly 900 lumens, you’re looking at about 75 lm/W. That’s efficient compared with legacy halogen PARs and comfortably below the power draw of old 75–100W lamps. It’s not bleeding-edge for LEDs (some newer floods push 90–110 lm/W), but in the warm-white, dimmable, narrow-beam category, 75 lm/W is respectable. The practical outcome: you can run a two-head fixture for the power cost of a single incandescent night-light and still see what you’re doing.

These run cool enough that they won’t bake your fixtures or trim, and there’s no glass envelope to scorch bugs or leaves. There’s also no mercury to worry about—a small but meaningful perk when you’re swapping lamps on a ladder.

Everyday usability

• Instant-on: No delay with sensors or switches.
• No shimmer on cameras: On my security cam feed (standard 30 fps), there was no rolling-band flicker.
• Glare control: The beam edge is gentle, so neighbors won’t get blasted. Aim carefully; even warm light can be intrusive if misaligned.
• Audible noise: None noted, even at low dim levels.

Where they shine and where they don’t

They shine for:
- Driveways, walkways, and entrances where you want warm, welcoming light and clear visibility.
- Covered soffit and porch lighting where dimming is desirable for evening ambience.
- Retrofitting older motion fixtures that struggled with hot halogens.

They’re less ideal for:
- Long-throw spotlighting (very large yards, tall flags far from the fixture) where you need tighter beams or higher candela.
- Fully exposed fixtures without shielding; stick to wet-rated lamps there.
- Applications demanding the absolute highest efficacy or premium color rendering.

Reliability so far

After months of nightly cycles outdoors, mine have been stable: no drop in brightness, no color shift, and no random shutoffs during cold snaps or humid stretches. That said, lightweight housings always make me cautious about long-term thermal stress. Ensuring the fixture has some airflow and isn’t enclosed in a sealed can will help longevity. As with any LED lamp, surge protection in your circuit doesn’t hurt.

Installation notes and tips

• Confirm PAR30 vs PAR38: These are PAR30 size; PAR38 fixtures will accept them, but the bezel may not sit as flush.
• Use LED-rated dimmers: You’ll get better low-end performance and avoid ghosting.
• Aim before tightening: The 40° beam responds well to small aim changes; set the head angle first, then snug it down.
• Respect the damp rating: Under an eave or in a hooded flood head is the sweet spot.

What I’d like to see improved

• A more conservative equivalency claim. Calling these a 75W halogen replacement feels truer to the real-world brightness and center-beam intensity.
• A published CRI. Even if it’s a standard 80+, listing it helps set expectations.
• A wet-location variant for users with fully exposed fixtures.

The bottom line

The Bluex PAR30 LEDs deliver comfortable, practical outdoor light with a warm tone, a sensible beam, and steady dimmable performance. They’re easy to live with, easy on power, and kinder to older fixtures than heavy metal-bodied lamps. If you want inviting coverage for a driveway, porch, or soffit—and you’re using a damp-rated location—they’re a solid choice. If your goal is to throw a tight, high-intensity spot across a big yard, you’ll want a narrower beam or more lumens.

Recommendation: I recommend these bulbs for homeowners who prefer warm, non-glaring illumination in covered or semi-sheltered outdoor fixtures and who value smooth dimming and low power draw. They’re not the last word in long-throw brightness, but for everyday residential coverage, they strike a thoughtful balance of comfort, performance, and efficiency.