GOOACC 170Pcs Car U-Clip and Screw Assortment Kit 9 Different Sizes Automotive U Nut and Screw Clip Replacement Parts for Dash Door Panel Interior

Why a simple hardware kit can save a weekend repair

Trim that won’t stay put, an undertray dragging on the highway, or a missing door panel screw—these are the small headaches that turn a quick fix into an all-day hunt for the “right” fastener. I picked up the GOOACC U-clip and screw kit to keep in the trunk as an all-purpose solution, and after using it across a handful of jobs—splash shields, fender liners, and interior trim—I’ve formed a clear picture of where it shines and where it falls short.

What’s in the kit

The kit includes five sizes of U-clips sized for small-to-medium metric hardware and four corresponding screw sizes: roughly M3×8 mm, M4×16 mm, M5×12 mm, and M6×20 mm. The U-clips are heat-treated spring steel with a black oxide finish, and the screws are zinc-plated steel Phillips heads. Everything comes in a compact plastic organizer.

The assortment is well chosen for everyday automotive work. On modern vehicles, you’ll encounter speed nuts and small metric screws all over: dash and door panels, wheel well liners, radiator shrouds, grilles, and splash shields. Having multiple clip throat widths and screw diameters in one place meant I rarely had to stop a job to run to the parts store.

Build quality and materials

The U-clips are the highlight here. They feel like real spring steel, with good “bite” and tension. They flex and return to shape without cracking, which matters when you’re sliding them over painted edges or thicker flanges. The black oxide finish resists surface rust reasonably well. After a few weeks of daily driving, including rain, the clips I installed under the car showed no immediate corrosion.

The screws are serviceable. Zinc plating does its job against light corrosion, and the threads are cut cleanly enough that they start smoothly in the clips. The Phillips recesses are properly formed, so a #2 driver engages without cam-out if you use steady pressure. That said, they’re not as robust as flange-head or hex-washer screws you’ll find on some OEM applications. If you often work on vehicles that live in snowy climates or see salt, stainless or coated alternatives will outlast zinc in the long run.

Fit and compatibility

No universal kit is truly universal, but this one covers a lot of ground. For interior trim and general plastic shields, it handled most of my needs. The clips seat well on typical body flanges and plastic tabs, and the screw diameters match up with the common hole sizes I encounter on Japanese, Korean, and European passenger cars.

• For interior panels: The M3 and M4 screws with matching clips worked well on glovebox and door trim attachments.
• For fender liners and splash shields: M5 clips and M5×12 screws were the sweet spot most of the time, with M6s stepping in where there’s more material to pull together.

Where it can come up short is screw length. On stack-ups with thick plastic plus felt liners, the 12 mm and 20 mm screws sometimes don’t fully catch the clip threads. In those cases, I swapped to a slightly longer screw from my own stash. The clips themselves still proved useful; they’re often the piece that’s missing or rusted away.

In use: splash shields and beyond

My first test was reattaching a loose under-engine splash shield. Two original speed nuts had vanished and one screw was seized. I slid on new U-clips from the kit, lined up the holes, and drove in fresh screws. The difference was immediate: the panel pulled tight without deforming the plastic, and there was no rattle on a test drive.

I also used the kit to replace a few mismatched fasteners holding a fender liner. The tighter clip tension prevented spinning as I tightened the screws, and the finished look was far cleaner than the mixed bag of hardware that came off the car. Inside the cabin, a small rattle in a door panel was cured by swapping in a properly fitting clip and M4 screw, which allowed me to snug the panel without cracking the plastic boss.

Installation tips

A few small habits make this kit work better:

• Align everything first. Start screws by hand to avoid cross-threading thin clips.
• Don’t over-torque. These are sheet-metal style threads. For M4–M6 in speed nuts, 1.5–3 N·m is plenty. Overtightening can strip the clip or crush plastic.
• Add washers as needed. A simple M5 or M6 fender washer spreads load on older or brittle plastic.
• Protect against corrosion. If you’re installing underbody, a spritz of anti-corrosion spray (or a light dab of anti-seize on the screw) helps in salted climates.
• Use the right driver. A #2 Phillips with a stubby handle or a 1/4" ratchet with a bit gives better control than a long screwdriver.

Durability and corrosion resistance

After several weeks, the hardware I installed under the car still looks clean. Black oxide isn’t as rust-proof as stainless or coatings like Geomet, but it’s a good balance between cost and protection. Zinc-plated screws will eventually oxidize if constantly exposed to spray and salt; plan to inspect underbody hardware seasonally in harsh climates. For interior and engine bay use, these should hold up for the long haul.

The clips maintain tension after removal and reinstallation, which isn’t always true of cheaper assortments. I removed and reinstalled a few panels during a stereo upgrade and didn’t notice the clips losing their spring.

Storage and organization

The plastic organizer is compact and easy to toss in a toolbox or trunk. The compartments are adequate, though they aren’t labeled by size. I ended up marking the lid with a Sharpie (M3, M4, etc.) to speed up the selection process. The lid stays closed in transit, but if you drop it, there’s a chance of small pieces jumping compartments. It’s not a high-end case, but it does the job.

Where the kit falls short

• Screw length variety: The included lengths cover many scenarios, but thicker stack-ups sometimes need a bit more reach. I’d love to see M5×16 and M6×25 included.
• No flange-head screws: A few flange- or washer-head options would spread load better on plastic panels.
• Not OEM-specific: Certain makes use captive washers, specialty clip shapes, or Torx/hex-washer screws. This kit won’t replace those unique fasteners.
• Finish limits: For heavy winter use, zinc and black oxide are acceptable but not optimal. Consider upgrading critical underbody locations to stainless if you live in the rust belt.

None of these are dealbreakers for general use, but they’re good to keep in mind if you’re stocking a shop or working in tough environments.

Value and who it’s for

For the price of a couple of dealer-packaged fasteners, you get a broad assortment that solves most day-to-day fastening needs on modern cars. DIYers will appreciate the convenience of having the common sizes on hand, and mobile techs will like the compact case and predictable fit. If you maintain multiple vehicles or do occasional bodywork, this is an easy add to your kit. Professionals dealing with specific models all day might still keep OEM-style hardware for a perfect match, supplementing with this kit for universal fixes.

Bottom line

The GOOACC kit earns its place in my trunk. The U-clips are properly sprung and grip well, the screws engage cleanly, and the size spread covers the majority of interior and underbody fastening tasks I encounter. It’s not a substitute for model-specific hardware, and I augmented it with a few longer screws and washers, but as a first-line solution for missing or rusted fasteners, it’s reliable and convenient.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit for DIYers and general automotive work because the clip quality is solid, the assortment is practical, and it meaningfully reduces downtime hunting for “that one fastener.” If you frequently work in salted environments or on vehicles with specialty hardware, pair it with a few longer stainless screws and washers, but keep this kit close—it solves more problems than it creates.