GORILLA Waterproof Caulk & Seal Silicone Sealant, 10oz Cartridge (Pack of 1) - White Caulking Sealant for Kitchen, Window, Bath, Marine, Door and More

Why I reached for this caulk—and where I used it

I picked up the Gorilla silicone caulk to tackle three jobs in one weekend: re-caulking a tub/shower joint that had started to pull away, sealing the kitchen sink rim, and touching up a couple of small exterior window gaps. The promise of a waterproof, mold- and mildew-resistant bead, and the ability to get it wet in about 30 minutes, made it a good candidate for a tight timeline. This cartridge is the white variant, which is the right choice if you want crisp, clean lines that blend with typical bath fixtures and trim.

Application experience

Out of the tube, the consistency is spot-on for a silicone: thick enough to stay where you put it, but forgiving under the tool. It fits a standard caulking gun, and the nozzle threads off for cleaning or swapping—handy if you’re doing multiple sessions.

A few notes from my process that yielded clean results:
- Prep matters. I completely removed the old silicone around the tub and sink (silicone does not adhere well to cured silicone), cleaned with a razor scraper, then wiped with isopropyl alcohol and let everything dry. For bigger gaps, I inserted backer rod so I could keep the bead to the right depth.
- Masking pays off. I ran painter’s tape on each side of the joint. It takes an extra minute, but it guarantees a straight, professional-looking line and reduces cleanup.
- Cut conservatively. I cut the nozzle for a 3/16-inch bead and kept the gun at a low angle. The flow is steady and predictable; I didn’t encounter air pockets or stringing.
- Tool quickly. I tooled the bead with a flexible caulk tool dipped in a bit of soapy water. Working time is generous enough to correct minor flaws, but you still want to pull the tape right after tooling before it skins.
- Ventilate. It’s an acetoxy-cure silicone, so you’ll get that vinegar-like smell during application and early cure. It dissipates as it sets.

Cleanup of uncured material is easiest with mineral spirits on a rag. Once this caulk cures, it’s very tenacious—you’ll be scraping, not wiping—so catch any smears right away. Gloves are a good idea.

Speed-to-service: 30 minutes in the real world

The standout promise here is water exposure in as little as 30 minutes. I finished the tub surround first and let it sit about 45 minutes before a low-pressure splash test. Water beaded up, and there was no clouding, sagging, or washout. I still gave all bath joints an overnight cure before a full shower, but the fast set reduced the anxiety about incidental splashes while finishing the bathroom. On the kitchen sink, I ran a gentle rinse after an hour with no issues.

As always, temperature and humidity affect cure. In a cool, dry room you may need more patience; in a warm, slightly humid bathroom, it set quickly for me. Full cure for a typical bead is usually within 24 hours, but the early water resistance is genuinely useful.

Performance and durability

• Waterproofing: On all three jobs, the bead sealed tight. The tub corner—often the first place to show gaps—stayed bonded even after cycling the tub from empty to full and back. I like a small fillet at corners, and this caulk held that shape without slumping.
• Flexibility: The tub-to-tile joint and the stainless sink-to-counter interface both move a bit in use. The bead flexes with those movements without tearing or pulling away. After a few weeks, there was no sign of splitting.
• Mold and mildew resistance: In the shower, the white bead stayed bright with regular cleaning. No gray spotting or pink tinge that sometimes shows up early with poorer silicones.
• Color fastness: The white remains white. On the exterior window trim, it did not yellow after sun exposure through a few warm weeks.
• Shrink and crack resistance: I checked the beads over multiple days—no shrink lines, no hairline cracks. What you tool in place is what you keep.

Where it shines

• Bathrooms and kitchens: Around tubs, showers, sinks, and backsplashes, this is exactly what you want: a waterproof, flexible silicone that doesn’t invite mildew and tolerates regular cleaning.
• Windows and doors: For exterior trim gaps where you want a silicone that stays elastic and resists UV, it works well. Just remember it’s not paintable—use white as your finished color or look at a paintable acrylic for different color schemes.
• Light marine tasks: For above-waterline hardware and seams that need a waterproof, flexible seal, this formula is appropriate. I wouldn’t use it for structural bedding or continuous submersion, but for deck fittings it’s fine.

Practical coverage and packaging

The 10 oz cartridge goes farther than you might expect. At a 1/4-inch bead, expect roughly 20–25 linear feet; at 3/16-inch, significantly more. I completed the tub perimeter, a kitchen sink rim, and a couple of short window seams from a single cartridge with a bit left over.

The screw-on nozzle is a small but meaningful convenience. If you’re stopping mid-project, wipe the nozzle, cap it tightly (a piece of plastic wrap under the cap helps), or plug it with a long screw so you can re-use it later with minimal waste.

Limitations and caveats

• Not paintable: Like all 100% silicone, this is not paintable. If you need a color other than white or plan to paint after sealing, choose a paintable caulk instead.
• Strong odor while curing: The vinegar smell during application is normal for acetoxy silicones, but it’s noticeable. Ventilate well.
• Hard to remove once cured: Precision counts. Mask, tool carefully, and clean as you go. Expect to use a razor and silicone remover if you need to redo an area after it sets.
• Porous stone caution: For natural stone like marble or limestone, acetoxy-cure silicones can occasionally cause staining or edge darkening. I’d use a neutral-cure, stone-safe silicone in those cases or test in an inconspicuous spot first.
• Wide gaps need backer rod: Like any caulk, it performs best with the right joint design—a bead roughly as deep as it is wide, adhering to two sides, not three. Use backer rod for gaps larger than about 1/4 inch.

Tips for a cleaner, longer-lasting bead

• Fill the tub before caulking, then drain after cure to “pre-flex” the joint and minimize later separation.
• Use painter’s tape for crisp edges, and pull it immediately after tooling.
• Keep a roll of paper towels and a small cup of mineral spirits nearby for quick cleanup of uncured smears.
• Don’t force it over old silicone—remove it fully for reliable adhesion.
• For vertical joints, work in shorter runs to maintain control.

Value

This caulk sits on the premium side of the silicone aisle, and its performance backs that up. The early water exposure rating is genuinely useful in busy households, and the bead’s stability over time means you’re not re-caulking in a few months. If you only need a tiny amount for a one-off repair, a small squeeze tube might be more economical. But for full bathroom or kitchen runs, the 10 oz cartridge is the right format and a solid value for the durability you get.

The bottom line

Gorilla’s white silicone caulk hits the key marks I care about for wet and exterior areas: smooth application, excellent adhesion, real waterproofing, resistance to mold, and a bead that stays the color it started. The ability to get it wet in about 30 minutes is more than marketing—it reduces downtime and makes weekend projects realistic. The trade-offs are the usual ones for 100% silicone: you can’t paint it, it smells while curing, and mistakes are stubborn once cured.

Would I recommend it? Yes. If you need a dependable, long-lasting seal around kitchens, baths, windows, doors, or above-waterline marine hardware—and you’re happy with a white finish—this is a top-tier choice that combines fast return-to-service with the durability you want so you only have to caulk once.