GOODTAKE Concrete Pigment, Blue Iron Oxide Pigment Powder, Concrete Cement Dye Color Coloring Powder for Brick, Tile, Clay, Lime, Mortar, Grout, Plaster, Paint, Bath Bombs

I judge a concrete pigment by three things: tint strength, ease of dispersion, and permanence. The GOODTAKE blue iron oxide checks most of those boxes better than I expected, with a few caveats around use case and expectations for color depth.

What I tested

I used the pigment across a handful of small projects:

• Integral color in gray concrete (stepping-stone pavers) and white Portland mortar (grout sample boards).
• Integral color in plaster-of-Paris molds.
• A topical wash on an old concrete paver, mixing the powder into a clear acrylic concrete sealer.
• A quick paint test in an acrylic binder.
• A tiny clay test tile fired to bisque as a sanity check for pottery suitability.

All mixing was done by weight, blending pigment thoroughly into dry mix before adding water. I tested 2%, 5%, 8%, and 10% pigment-to-cement ratios, then matched water to maintain workable consistency.

Color and tint strength

This is a cool, medium blue that trends slightly toward a slate/ultramarine look rather than turquoise. As an integral color in gray concrete:

• 2% produced a muted blue-gray—think wind-worn denim.
• 5% landed at a clear blue-gray, visible and attractive without looking artificial.
• 8–10% pushed to a strong, unmistakably blue tone, but still tempered by the gray base.

In white Portland mortar and plaster, the same percentages delivered the expected bump in saturation. A 5% load in white mortar reads like a true decorative blue, while 8–10% approaches a bold, saturated hue. In short, the base you choose matters: white binders amplify, gray binders subdue. If you’re chasing the color shown on the bottle or product photos, start with a white or very light base.

The pigment is fine and uniform, and a small amount goes a long way in light-colored media. That’s great for economy: a 4 oz bottle comfortably covers several small projects or a good handful of pavers at mid-range loading.

Dispersion and workflow

The powder disperses well—provided you respect the order of operations. Dry-blend it into the cementitious material first for a solid minute or two, then add water. If you sprinkle it into wet mix, you’ll get speckling.

• In concrete and mortar, blend time was minimal and the color came together quickly.
• In plaster, I noticed a slightly faster set at higher pigment loads (8–10%), which is normal; the extra solids change the water demand and heat profile. Adjust water incrementally, not all at once.
• In acrylic paint, it wet out nicely but benefited from a drop or two of surfactant or a dedicated dispersant for maximum smoothness.

As a surface colorant, I experimented with a slurry made from clear acrylic sealer plus pigment. It flashes quickly, bonds decently to clean, etched concrete, and seals in the color when top-coated. Just remember: this is a pigment, not an acid stain. It doesn’t chemically react or penetrate deeply. Treat it like a pigmented sealer or wash and protect it with a durable topcoat.

Mix ratios: how far is too far?

The manufacturer suggests 3–10% by weight, and that guidance mirrors my experience. Below 3%, you get a soft tint in gray concrete—nice for subtlety, underwhelming if you want saturation. Pushing past 10% shows diminishing returns in color intensity and can start to affect workability and potentially strength. If you need a deeper color than 10% provides:

• Switch to white cement or a lighter mix.
• Reduce water-to-cement ratio slightly and use a plasticizer to maintain workability.
• Consider a two-step approach: integral color plus a pigmented sealer topcoat to drive chroma without overloading the mix.

Durability and fade resistance

After a few weeks outdoors—sun, heat, and a decent rain—the integral color showed no visible change. That’s consistent with iron oxides’ reputation for lightfastness. The topical acrylic wash also held fine in the same period, though its long-term performance will hinge entirely on the quality of the sealer you choose. Plan to reseal traffic areas periodically.

Water resistance is excellent once it’s locked inside a cured cementitious matrix. Expect some color lightening as mixes dry and cure; the “wet look” is always deeper. If you want a bold wet-look finish, a clear, non-yellowing sealer will bring the saturation back without skewing the hue.

Suitability for clay and bath products

For ceramics, I wedged a small amount into a white clay and fired to a standard bisque. The color largely bleached out during firing. If you’re a potter, treat this as a concrete/cement pigment, not a ceramic body stain. Use ceramic-grade stains or oxides rated for your cone.

For bath products, I limited my test to a simple soap base swatch. The pigment colored it well, but I default to cosmetic-grade pigments for anything that contacts skin or bathwater. If you plan to use it in bath bombs, verify it meets your safety standards and be ready for more intense cleanup: it stains porous surfaces and can be tough to remove from grout and textured tubs.

Practical tips

• Weigh your pigment. Volume scoops are inconsistent at this fineness.
• Mix dry-to-dry first. Add water only after the color is uniformly distributed.
• Sample first. Make small pucks at 2%, 5%, 8%, 10% to choose your target before committing a full batch.
• Consider your base: white cement or grout will always yield truer, brighter color.
• Seal surfaces exposed to weather or wear, especially if you used a topical application.
• Wear gloves and a dust mask. This pigment will stain skin and claws its way into pores. Clean up while wet; once it dries, it’s stubborn.

Packaging and handling

My bottle arrived sealed and reusable, which I appreciate for storage. The powder is very fine, so expect some static cling and airborne dust when you first open it. Crack the lid slowly and decant near the work surface to keep the mess contained.

One thing I’d love to see is more technical detail on the label or a downloadable data sheet—specifically color index information, lightfastness rating, and recommended maximum loading by application. It’s clearly a robust pigment, and providing those details would help pros dial in specs with confidence.

Where it shines—and where it doesn’t

Strengths:
- Predictable, repeatable color in cementitious media.
- Fine grind that disperses quickly when mixed properly.
- Good lightfastness outdoors and strong performance as an integral color.
- Cost-effective for small to medium DIY and craft projects.

Limitations:
- True saturation in gray concrete is constrained; use white binders or a sealer topcoat if you want a punchy blue.
- Not suitable for fired ceramics.
- As a topical color, durability depends on the binder/sealer you choose; it’s not a chemical stain.
- Stains skin and porous surfaces; handle with care.

Who it’s for

• DIYers and makers coloring stepping stones, planters, pavers, grout, and plaster decor.
• Tradespeople needing reliable, repeatable tints for small custom pours or patching where color matters.
• Artists who want a stable, lightfast inorganic blue for cement, plaster, or mixed media—especially when mixing their own cementitious paints or slurries.

If your primary use is pottery firing or you need a penetrating concrete stain with reactive, variegated effects, this isn’t the right tool.

Recommendation

I recommend the GOODTAKE blue pigment for integral coloring of concrete, mortar, grout, and plaster, and as a versatile colorant for acrylic- or sealer-based topical washes when properly sealed. It disperses easily, holds its color outdoors, and offers solid tint strength within the reasonable 3–10% loading range—particularly when paired with light-colored binders. It’s not a ceramic stain and isn’t a shortcut to hyper-saturated blues in gray concrete, but used thoughtfully, it’s a dependable, economical way to add durable blue tones to cementitious projects.