Mollom 2 Way Circuit Breaker MCB Distribution Protection Box with DIN Rail, IP65 Waterproof,for Indoor and Outdoor

Why I chose this enclosure

I needed a compact, weatherproof box to house exactly two DIN-rail breakers for a small outdoor run—one two-pole breaker for a pump circuit and a spare slot for future expansion. The HT-2 checked the right boxes on paper: IP65 ingress protection, IK08 impact resistance, PC+ABS construction, a built-in DIN rail, and included waterproof glands and mounting hardware. On the bench it looked like a simple two-module job, and in the field it largely delivered.

Build and design

The HT-2 is purposefully small—60 x 95 x 125 mm—which keeps the footprint tidy but also sets clear limits on what you can fit inside. The shell is PC+ABS, a common blend that balances rigidity and impact resistance without the weight or corrosion concerns of metal. It feels light-duty in the hand but not flimsy; the walls don’t oil-can when you press on them, and the molding quality is clean with no sharp edges or flashing.

Inside, the pre-installed DIN rail is aligned properly and at the right depth for standard 18 mm-wide miniature circuit breakers. I tested with two devices (a 2-pole breaker and a single-pole placeholder for spacing) and had no interference with the cover. There’s no included neutral or ground bus bar and no extra mounting plate, so plan on either pigtailing neutrals/grounds elsewhere or adding a tiny rail-mounted terminal block if your application requires it.

The cover is secured with four screws and seats onto a perimeter gasket. The fastening points are snug, and the seal compresses evenly. It’s a simple construction that should be easy to service—just keep track of the screws in the field.

Capacity and layout

This is a true two-way box: you’ll realistically fit two standard MCB-width devices and modest wiring. There’s just enough room for careful bends, but you won’t be stacking ferruled conductors or heavy gauge cables in bulk. For sizing context:

• Two 18 mm devices fit without rubbing the walls or cover.
• With two devices installed, the remaining space favors conductors in the 14–10 AWG range; larger, stiffer cable will require very tight routing and may push the limits of bend radius inside this footprint.
• There’s no meaningful extra depth for tall accessories or oversized terminal boots.

If your design depends on side-entry or a dense terminal scheme, move up a size. The HT-2 excels when you keep it simple: two breakers, clean top/bottom entry, and tidy routing.

Installation experience

The box ships with wall anchors/screws and two plastic waterproof cable glands. There are no knockouts. You drill your own entry holes, which I prefer in a small enclosure because you can choose the exact locations and sizes.

My process looked like this:
- Planned top and bottom entries to preserve the rain-shedding shape and reduce water intrusion risk.
- Marked holes, center-punched, and used a step bit to get clean circles sized to the glands.
- Deburred thoroughly and fitted the glands, taking care to seat the grommets evenly.
- Mounted the base to the wall, installed the DIN devices, made terminations, formed drip loops, and finally fitted the cover.

The included glands sealed well when tightened properly. For outdoor runs, I’d pick cable OD to match gland range, use ferrules on stranded conductors for the MCBs, and keep the conductor count minimal inside the box. The small interior rewards organization; pre-cutting conductors to exact length made the difference between an elegant route and a messy one.

A few practical notes:
- Side- and rear-entry are technically possible but awkward and risky for sealing. Top and bottom are more forgiving and maintain the intended IP performance.
- A step drill makes cleaner entries in plastic than spade or twist bits.
- Don’t overtighten the cover screws; compress the gasket just enough to seat fully.

Weather protection and toughness

IP65 means dust tight and protected against water jets from any direction. The gasket and cover fit are convincing, and with the glands snugged down and cables properly sized, I’m confident in rain and splash scenarios. I wouldn’t expose it to direct, constant pressure washing or bury it in a puddle, but mounted vertically on a wall or post with drip loops, it’s well suited to exterior use.

IK08 impact resistance suggests it will shrug off minor knocks. This is still a plastic enclosure; it’s not meant for forklift zones or places where it will get kicked. UV exposure is always a question with plastics, but PC+ABS generally holds up decently. For harsh coastal or industrial sites, a heavier, larger polycarbonate or metal enclosure may be a safer bet.

In use

Once installed, the HT-2 did exactly what I needed: kept two breakers secure, dry, and accessible. There’s no hinge or quick-release latch, so service involves removing four screws. That’s acceptable for an enclosure this small and helps maintain the seal integrity. The DIN rail held the devices firmly, and I didn’t experience any misalignment or cover interference.

Thermal rise wasn’t an issue in my setup, but remember: a tiny enclosure concentrates heat if you run high load continuously. Two standard MCBs aren’t typically a problem, yet if this is going in a hot sun-facing location, consider shading or upsizing the enclosure for more air volume.

Safety and compliance

The enclosure has an IP and IK rating, and the manufacturer references a test report, but I didn’t find an external listing mark (e.g., UL listing) on the unit I used. Depending on your jurisdiction and the nature of the installation (especially for EVSE or grid-tied solar), your inspector may require listed enclosures. For residential DIY or non-permitted work, that may be less of a concern; for commercial or inspected installs, verify acceptance before committing.

Also note the plastic body isn’t a grounding path. If your circuit needs a neutral or ground bar, you’ll need to provide one on the DIN rail or elsewhere in the system.

What could be better

• Space: The interior is tight. A few extra millimeters in width and depth would ease routing and expand cable options.
• Entry guidance: Molded pilot marks for top/bottom entry would help lay out drilling without measuring.
• Accessory support: Optional snap-in N/PE terminal blocks sized for this chassis would make it more turnkey.

None of these are dealbreakers, but they’re worth knowing before you buy and plan.

Ideal use cases

• Small outdoor spur circuits (garden pump, shed sub-feed with an upstream RCD/GFCI).
• DC or AC breaker pairs on a compact off-grid or backup power subsystem where space is at a premium.
• Indoor applications that benefit from dust protection and a clean, sealed presentation.
• Temporary or portable setups where a tiny footprint matters.

If you need more than two modules, frequent service access, large-gauge conductors, or side-entry cable paths, choose a larger enclosure.

Tips for a clean install

• Use a step bit for precise, round entry holes and de-burr thoroughly.
• Favor top/bottom entries with drip loops to maintain the IP65 rating.
• Match cable OD to gland range; swap to higher-quality glands if your cable is out of spec.
• Crimp ferrules on stranded conductors for secure terminations.
• Keep conductor count minimal inside; consider remote terminal blocks if needed.

Recommendation

I recommend the HT-2 for small, focused projects that need a compact, weatherproof enclosure for exactly two DIN-rail breakers. It’s well made for its size, seals reliably when installed correctly, and includes the essentials to get you mounted and watertight. The trade-offs are capacity and flexibility: there’s limited space for conductors, no built-in neutral/ground bars, and side/rear entries are impractical. If those constraints align with your design, the HT-2 offers solid value and a tidy result. If you anticipate thicker cables, frequent service, or evolving needs, step up to a larger enclosure in the same style to give yourself room to work and grow.