Ashley Hearth AW1820E 1,200 Sq. Ft. Wood Stove Insert , Black

Why I chose this insert

A cold snap finally pushed me to put my masonry fireplace to work, and the AW1820E insert is the route I took. I have a modest, draft-prone living room that opens to the rest of a 1,100–1,200 sq. ft. main floor, and I wanted reliable supplemental heat without overhauling the entire hearth. The promise here is straightforward: a compact, no-frills insert that sips wood efficiently, gives you a real fire to look at, and helps the furnace take some nights off.

Installation and setup

This unit is heavy. I’m glad I planned for that. I staged it near the hearth, stripped the door and firebricks to shave weight, and rolled it on short sections of PVC to protect the floors. I’d recommend having two strong helpers or a furniture dolly.

You will want a full, insulated stainless-steel liner sized for the flue collar and a block-off plate at the damper area. The top-mounted flue connection sits high on the insert, so working space matters—tight fireplaces can make attaching the liner a knuckle-buster. Once seated, I packed mineral wool around the block-off plate to reduce heat loss up the chimney. After reinstalling the firebricks and door, I ran the prescribed series of small break-in fires to cure the paint. Expect a bit of initial odor; crack a window and run the blower on low.

A couple of small installation notes:
- The surround panels are straightforward and do a good job of covering the gap.
- The stock hardware on my blower shroud felt soft; one screw head stripped during installation. Replacing a couple of fasteners with stainless, plus adding lock washers, stopped a later rattle.

Heating performance in real use

For its size, this little box punches above its weight. The manufacturer rates it up to 69,000 BTU for 1,200 sq. ft., and while that’s an idealized number, the real-world takeaway is solid: it takes my 15' x 20' living room from “chilly” to “comfortable” quickly, and the central thermostat cycles far less when the insert is running. Heat naturally collects near the hearth, so moving it around is key. Two tips that make a big difference:

• Use a small, quiet desk fan set on the floor across the room to push cool air toward the insert; it displaces hot air out across the ceiling evenly.
• Run a ceiling fan on low, reverse direction, to keep stratified heat from lingering above head height.

In my climate (winters that dip into the teens), the insert comfortably carries evenings and weekends without the furnace kicking on. Edge rooms and upstairs get a gentle nudge of warmth but not a full handoff from the HVAC.

Blower and noise

The variable-speed blower is essential for getting heat off the unit and into the room. On high, it moves a respectable amount of air with a noticeable hum—audible but not intrusive over a TV or conversation. On medium, it’s nearly a non-issue noise-wise and still effective. If your hearth recesses deeply, consider adding a small external fan as described above; it transforms the heat distribution.

If you notice a metallic buzz, check the blower cover and mounting points. Tightening fasteners and adding a thin strip of high-temp tape or felt between contact surfaces eliminated my occasional rattle.

Firebox, burn behavior, and glass

The firebox is compact and lined with firebrick, which helps maintain consistent burn temperatures. It accepts up to 18" logs, but in practice I get the best loading patterns with 16" splits. I can place three to four medium splits without crowding the baffle.

Expect frequent reloads compared to larger inserts. Here’s what I’ve consistently seen with dry hardwood:
- Strong, room-warming output for 60–90 minutes on a medium-high burn.
- Useful heat for 2.5–3.5 hours per load with the air reduced, depending on wood species and split size.
- Hot coals for easy restart after 4–5 hours, but it’s not an overnight burner in the strict sense.

Cold starts benefit from a quick flue “prime.” Because the draft path is high, I roll a piece of newspaper and light it near the flue collar or use a heat gun for 20–30 seconds before lighting kindling. That little bit of preheat prevents lazy smoke from spilling out. After that, the routine is straightforward: open the air fully, light with dry kindling, transition to small splits, then to full-size pieces. Once the stove is hot, closing the air control to the halfway mark gives a clean, efficient burn with visible secondaries and little visible smoke outside.

The viewing window is generous for a compact insert. The air wash keeps it clean above the coal line; a faint haze will build over a few evenings. A quick wipe with damp newspaper dipped in ash cleans it right up.

Controls and efficiency

Controls are simple and coarse—you won’t find micro-adjustability here. That said, once the stove is hot, small changes to the primary air lever make predictable differences, and the unit runs cleanly with seasoned wood. In terms of wood use, I would call it honest and frugal. Compared to my open fireplace, the wood savings are dramatic; compared to a premium, larger insert, the difference is more about burn time than efficiency.

Build quality and design details

The chassis is heavy-gauge steel, the door is cast iron, and the firebrick lining inspires confidence. The finish has held up well to repeated hot cycles. Two small quirks worth noting:
- Door hinge and latch: After a dozen hot-cold cycles, my door hinge pins loosened slightly. A careful pinch with pliers and re-check of the latch tension (dollar-bill test) brought the seal back to snug, and it hasn’t budged.
- Seams and gasket: With a properly connected liner and tuned latch, I’ve had no smoke seepage into the room during normal operation. If you see wisps on startup, check your flue preheat routine and door seal tension before assuming a defect.

None of this feels out of line with the price point. This is a stout, value-focused insert with a utilitarian fit and finish.

Maintenance and day-to-day use

• Ash management: There’s no ash pan; I shovel a small amount every few days, leaving an inch of ash to insulate the coal bed.
• Blower: Vacuum the intake occasionally to keep dust from throttling airflow.
• Glass: Quick clean with ash and water or a dedicated ceramic-glass cleaner.
• Chimney: Even with clean burns, sweep the liner at least once per season.

As always, run a CO detector nearby and keep hearth clearances and combustibles in check.

Who it’s for (and who should keep looking)

This insert shines if you:
- Have a smaller masonry fireplace and need a compact unit.
- Want to meaningfully supplement central heat in a main living space.
- Prefer simple controls, visible flames, and modest wood consumption.
- Are comfortable with a DIY-friendly install, or plan to hire a pro but keep total project costs in check.

You may want a larger, higher-end insert if you:
- Expect true overnight burns without tending.
- Need to heat an entire 1,200+ sq. ft. home in a cold climate exclusively on wood.
- Demand whisper-quiet, high-CFM blowers and premium trim details.

Final recommendation

I recommend the AW1820E insert for homeowners who want an affordable, durable way to convert an underperforming fireplace into real, usable heat. It’s compact, efficient with seasoned wood, and straightforward to live with. The blower isn’t luxurious, and the firebox won’t carry you from dusk to dawn on a single load, but those are sensible trade-offs at this size and price. With a proper liner, a few installation best practices, and realistic expectations, this insert turns cold nights into cozy ones—without beating up your woodpile or your wallet.