Litever Gun Safe Power Outlet Strip with 2 USB Ports. 10 FT Flat AC Cable with Removable 3-Prong Plugs. Outlet Accessory for Gun Safe, Cabinets, Closet, Drawer. Black. Certified

Why I wanted power inside a safe

Once you add a dehumidifier rod, a small fan, and interior lighting to a gun safe or cabinet, you quickly realize how clumsy external cords and pass-through adapters can be. I wanted a cleaner, safer solution that would let me power a few low-draw accessories without turning the inside of the safe into a tangle. The Litever outlet turned out to be a tidy, purpose-built way to do it.

What it is

At its core, this is a compact two-outlet power strip with two USB ports, a 10-foot flat 16 AWG cord, and a clever removable three-prong plug. The removable plug is the star: disconnect it, pass the bare cord end through a small hole, then secure the quick-connect on the outside again. That means you don’t have to drill a giant hole just to fit a molded plug, and you can mount the strip cleanly inside the safe, closet, or cabinet.

• AC: two 110 V outlets, up to 1500 W total
• USB: two 5 V ports rated at 1 A (slow, but useful for small accessories)
• Cable: 10 ft, flat jacket, 16 AWG x 3 conductors
• Mounting: multiple options in the box (screws, adhesive, hook-and-loop)

Installation experience

The install was straightforward. I unplugged the cord, released the lever-style quick connector on the plug, and set the plug aside. After marking a discreet spot at the back of the safe, I drilled a small hole just large enough for the cord jacket. A couple of quick tips from the process:

• Use a step bit and deburr both sides of the hole. A tight, clean hole prevents chafing.
• Add a rubber grommet for strain relief and insulation if your safe doesn’t already have a pass-through.
• Plan cord routing before you reattach the outside plug. The flat cable hugs metal nicely and doesn’t fight you.

Reassembling the plug with the lever connector was intuitive—conductors are color-coded, and the connector is keyed so you can’t easily misplace line/neutral/ground. Even so, I double-checked each wire’s seat before closing the latch. After that, I mounted the power bar inside.

For mounting, Litever includes several methods. The adhesive strip is quick, the hook-and-loop (Velcro) gives you repositioning flexibility, and there are small screws if you prefer a hard mount. On heavier-gauge steel, the included screws were on the short side, so I used the hook-and-loop. It’s been secure, and I like that I can remove the outlet to clean behind it or reconfigure the interior.

All told, the install took under 30 minutes, including drilling and cleanup.

Design and build

The Litever outlet is compact and unobtrusive—black plastic housing with two grounded receptacles and two USB ports. It feels purpose-built for tight spaces. The flat cord is a smart choice; it routes cleanly along the interior wall and under shelves without bulges, and the 10-foot length easily reached a nearby wall outlet outside the safe without needing an extension cord.

The quick-connect plug mechanism is the defining design feature. Unlike ad hoc “cut-and-rewire” solutions, this connector is tool-less and secure, and it doesn’t require stripping conductors or fiddling with wire nuts. It’s neat, fast, and reduces the chances of a bad splice.

Power capacity and real-world use

Inside my safe, I’m powering a 12-inch dehumidifier rod and a small LED light strip. Combined, they draw well under 100 W, a fraction of the 1500 W maximum. The two AC outlets offer flexibility—one for the dehumidifier, one for lighting or a tiny circulation fan. For this type of use, the 1500 W rating is plenty.

The USB ports are convenient but limited. At a rated 5 V, 1 A, they’re fine for a hygrometer, a small rechargeable sensor, or slowly topping up a phone in a pinch, but don’t expect tablet charging speeds. I treat them as “accessory power,” not general-purpose charging.

There’s no audible hum and no heat buildup under typical safe-accessory loads. The cord stays cool, which you’d expect at these draw levels. Just remember: this isn’t a power strip for high-draw tools or heaters. A 1500 W cap means devices like space heaters are off limits. In a confined metal cabinet, that’s a good safety boundary.

Safety notes and certifications

The unit is advertised as certified, and my sample carried the expected regulatory markings. The 16 AWG conductors align with the 1500 W/12.5 A limit, and the grounded plug and receptacles are standard fare. There’s no surge suppression or GFCI functionality. If you want surge protection, place a surge protector between the wall outlet and this cord outside the safe; I wouldn’t put a bulky surge device inside due to space and heat considerations.

A few practical safety tips:
- Don’t exceed the 1500 W total load.
- Keep cords and the strip away from desiccant packs that can become damp.
- Deburr and grommet any drilled hole to avoid long-term insulation wear.
- If your safe manufacturer warns against drilling, look for an existing pass-through or consult them; drilling may void warranties.

Everyday usability

After a few weeks, the best compliment I can pay the Litever outlet is that I don’t think about it. It powers on, stays put, and frees me from dangling cords at the door seam. The interior stays tidy, and any maintenance is easy thanks to the hook-and-loop mount. The two-outlet layout is also a good fit: enough to support the typical safe setup without encouraging a daisy-chain of adapters.

The flat cable is the quiet hero here. It routes along the floor behind the safe and under a baseboard lip without telegraphing a bulge. That makes it easier to push the safe back to the wall and eliminates wobble.

What could be better

• USB output is slow. At 1 A, these ports are fine for sensors but not great for charging phones or tablets. Doubling to 2.1 A per port would modernize the feature.
• No surge protection. It’s understandable in a compact strip, but a variant with basic surge suppression would be welcome for users in lightning-prone areas.
• Mounting screws are short. On thicker steel, you may want your own self-tapping screws, or just use the included hook-and-loop, which works surprisingly well.
• No power switch. A small rocker could help users who want to cut power to lights without unplugging. Not a deal-breaker, but worth noting.

Who it’s for

• Owners of gun safes, cabinets, or closets who need clean, permanent power for dehumidifiers, lights, and small fans.
• Anyone who wants to avoid drilling a giant hole just to pass a molded plug.
• Users prioritizing a low-profile cable run and a tidy interior mount.

If you need multiple high-current outlets, surge protection, or fast USB charging, look elsewhere. This is a focused solution for low-draw accessories, and that’s where it excels.

Practical setup tips

• Mount high if possible. Heat rises and humidity can settle low; this keeps the strip away from any residual moisture.
• Plan your outlet location around device cord lengths. Many dehumidifier rods have short leads.
• Label your external plug connection after reassembly. It’s obvious when you’re doing it, but a small mark can save second-guessing later.

Recommendation

I recommend the Litever outlet for anyone looking to add reliable, tidy power inside a safe or cabinet. The removable plug and flat 10-foot cord solve the single biggest headache—getting power inside without a large hole—while the dual outlets cover the common accessory set. The USB ports are limited, and there’s no surge protection, but those trade-offs make sense in a compact, purpose-built strip. For dehumidifiers, LED lighting, and similar low-draw gear, it’s a clean, safe, and user-friendly solution.