EBaokuup 2 Pcs Gutter Valley Splash Guards,Rain Gutter Valley Roofing Gutter Guards, Diverter Roof Rain Diverter for House Shingle Roofs Corner

A few storms this fall exposed a weak spot on my roof: the inside corners where a valley dumps water straight into the gutter. In heavy downpours, that spot would sheet water over the gutter lip and right onto the landscaping below. I installed the EBaokuup gutter splash guards at those corners to corral the flow and keep it in the gutter. After several wet weeks, here’s how they fared.

What these guards are (and aren’t)

These are simple, uncoated aluminum corner guards designed to sit at the gutter’s inside corner, where roof valleys terminate. Each piece forms a vertical barrier that increases the “height” of the gutter at that corner so fast-moving water doesn’t leap over the edge. Because they’re aluminum, they won’t rust, and they’re light enough to handle solo on a ladder.

They’re not a full gutter cover or a filter. Think of them as flow management—small diverters that let your existing gutter do its job instead of being overwhelmed at a critical point.

Installation experience

Install was straightforward and took about 15 minutes per corner, including a cautious ladder setup and cleanup.

• Prep: I wiped down the gutter lip and corner with isopropyl alcohol so sealant would adhere. The guards arrived with a thin protective film—nice touch to keep scratches at bay—that I peeled off after dry-fitting.
• Fit: The aluminum has enough stiffness to stand tall but enough give to conform to the slight radius on my K-style gutter. I gave the flanges a gentle tweak by hand for a snug fit.
• Fastening: My set included a small bag of zinc sheet-metal screws. They worked, but I swapped in stainless self-tapping screws for better longevity and to reduce galvanic corrosion risk. I pre-drilled pilot holes and added a dab of exterior-grade sealant under the guard and around each screw.
• Positioning: I set the guard so the highest point sat just downstream of the valley’s outlet and extended around the inside corner. On one corner with especially aggressive runoff, I overlapped a second guard by about 1 inch to add height and length “downstream.”

If you’re comfortable with basic gutter work, you’ll be fine. Gloves are a good idea; the edges on mine weren’t razor sharp, but aluminum edges can surprise you.

Performance in the rain

On the next hard rain, the difference was immediate. The “waterfall” I used to see at the corner turned into controlled flow into the gutter. The guards create a small pocket where the water hits, loses momentum, and then drops into the trough. I stood under the eaves in a downpour (for science) and didn’t get the usual splash-back or sheet of water off the edge. Mulch migration and soil splatter—both common in that zone—were notably reduced.

I did a few checks after storms:

• No observable overflow at the guarded corners, even during cloudbursts that used to overwhelm them.
• No humming or rattling; the aluminum doesn’t flex noticeably under water impact when fastened at both faces.
• No new leaks around the corner seams where I used sealant.

I haven’t had midwinter ice load on them yet. Based on stiffness and fastener bite, I don’t expect them to fold easily, but heavy ice sliding off a roof can bend almost anything. If you live in heavy snow country, mount them securely and consider whether taller or thicker diverters make sense for your roof pitch and snow behavior.

Build quality and materials

The aluminum is thick enough to resist casual bending yet still workable by hand for slight adjustments. Edges were cleanly cut on my set. There’s no powder coat or paint—these are bare mill-finish aluminum. That’s a plus for corrosion resistance and easy field modifications, but the shiny finish will stand out against dark gutters and roofing.

If appearance matters, hit them with an etching primer and an exterior enamel or a color-matched gutter paint. Scuff lightly with a Scotch-Brite pad first. Painted, they blend in nicely.

A quick note on fasteners: aluminum and zinc-coated steel play reasonably well, but stainless fasteners are ideal. If you use zinc screws, dab sealant at the heads. In coastal environments, stainless is worth it.

Fit and coverage

For most inside corners, a single guard per face is enough. On one of my steep valleys, the initial impact zone spread a bit too wide, so I installed the second guard in series to extend the barrier downstream. That tweak eliminated a small reappearance of splash further along the gutter.

If your valley pours water at high velocity, expect to:

• Overlap two guards for extra length/height, or
• Supplement with a small inside-gutter splash plate to diffuse flow right under the valley opening.

I would not treat these as a universal cure for poorly pitched or undersized gutters. They solve a specific problem—overflow at inside corners—very effectively, but they can’t compensate for clogged gutters, improper slope, or insufficient downspout capacity.

Aesthetics

Functionally, they’re great. Aesthetically, the bare aluminum looks utilitarian. On my white gutters, the bright metal wasn’t offensive; on a black or bronze system, it reads as an aftermarket add-on. The square upper corners also look very “shop cut.” If you’re picky about looks, a quick radius on the top corners with a file and a coat of paint makes a disproportionately big visual difference.

Durability outlook

Aluminum won’t rust, and there’s not much here to fail. The weak points are really the fasteners and the interface with the gutter. Keep an eye on:

• Fastener corrosion if you used non-stainless screws.
• Sealant integrity around screw heads after a season or two.
• Any bending from sliding ice if your roof sheds snow.

My expectation is multi-year service with minimal attention. If one were to deform under an ice slide, bending it back or replacing the piece is simple.

Tips for best results

• Clean the gutter thoroughly before install. Splash guards don’t fix clogs.
• Use stainless self-tapping screws if you can; they bite well and last.
• Add a bead of exterior sealant under the guard’s base and over screw heads.
• Consider paint if you want a seamless look—etching primer plus enamel holds up.
• For steep or high-volume valleys, run two guards in series.
• Don’t overtighten screws; you want firm contact without oil-canning the gutter lip.

Value

For the price of a few coffees, these guards prevented the kind of splash-out that was soaking my porch and beating up the foundation plantings. There aren’t moving parts to justify a premium in this category; simple aluminum is exactly what you want: light, rigid, and corrosion-resistant. If you have multiple corners to address, buying enough pieces to cover each corner (and possibly doubling up at the worst offenders) is still cost-effective.

Who they’re for

• Homeowners with inside roof valleys that overshoot gutters in heavy rain.
• Folks who want a quick, DIY-friendly fix without replacing gutters or adding complex diverter systems.
• Anyone prioritizing function over form—or willing to paint for a cleaner look.

Who should look elsewhere:

• If appearance is paramount and you want factory-finished components with shaped edges, you may prefer a coated or molded diverter system.
• If your problem is chronic clogging, you need gutter guards/filters, not splash guards.

Recommendation

I recommend these splash guards. They’re sturdy, easy to install, and immediately effective at taming the high-velocity runoff that overwhelms gutter corners. The bare aluminum finish is the main compromise—functional but visually plain—yet that’s easy to address with paint if it bothers you. For most homes with valley overflow, this is a low-cost, high-impact fix that does exactly what it should: keep water in the gutter and off your porch, siding, and landscaping.