JYINCPED Upgraded 1472A1191 Wheel Package Blower for Coleman,RV Air Conditioner Blower Wheel for Coleman Mach RV AC Fan Parts of 47003, 47004, 47023, 47024, 47053, 47054, 47073, 47074 etc

Why I installed this blower wheel

On a cold morning back at my RV, I flipped the thermostat to heat and heard the compressor and motor spin up—but almost no air moved through the ducts. The culprit was easy to spot under the rooftop shroud: the plastic “squirrel cage” blower had cracked and lost balance. I swapped it with the JYINCPED blower wheel, a replacement for Coleman Mach 8 and Mach 8 Plus units that cross-references to 1472A1191. After a few weeks of daily use in both heat-pump and cooling modes, here’s how it stacked up.

Compatibility and build quality

This blower wheel targets a wide spread of Coleman Mach 8 and Mach 8 Plus systems—the common 470xx and 472xx families among them—as well as heat pump variants. If your manual lists 1472A1191, this is the style you’re after. I recommend checking your model tag under the rooftop shroud before ordering; the Mach line has many sub-variants, and the hub size and overall footprint need to match.

In hand, the wheel feels rigid and well molded. The vanes are uniform, the hub bore is clean, and the assembly is balanced enough that it doesn’t exhibit the telltale wobble you get with some off-spec replacements. It’s not metal—most of these RV blowers aren’t—but the plastic formulation is stout and doesn’t “ring” or flex easily. That stiffness matters: a flimsy cage can deform under heat and start rubbing the scroll housing, leading to noise and premature failure. This one has held shape in rooftop heat and direct sun without any warping.

Installation: straightforward, with one caveat

Swapping the wheel is a rooftop job that rewards patience more than any specialty tool. Here’s what my process looked like:

• Kill power at the breaker and disconnect 12V control power to the thermostat. You don’t want a motor kicking on mid-repair.
• Remove the outer shroud (four screws on most Mach 8s) and the evaporator/ventilation cover beneath it.
• Pop off the blower cover to access the wheel and motor assembly.
• The wheel rides on a notched (double-flat) motor shaft and is retained by an end screw and washer. Remove that screw, mind the washer, and note how far the old wheel sits relative to the housing.
• My old wheel slid off with persuasion; yours may need gentle, even taps on the hub using a wood block to avoid stressing the vanes.
• Clean the motor shaft—scotch-brite the flats and wipe away corrosion. A spotless shaft makes all the difference.
• Align the new wheel’s hub notch with the shaft flat and start it by hand. On my unit, the fit was intentionally snug. I used a deep socket and light taps to walk it down until the end screw could catch a few threads. From there, I used the end screw (Torx on my unit) to draw the wheel the rest of the way to its final position.
• Before buttoning up, spin the wheel by hand. It should rotate freely with no scrape. Adjust position slightly if you hear contact.
• Reassemble the covers, restore power, and test in fan-only first.

The only gotcha is that press fit. It’s tight by design to prevent slippage, but that also means you shouldn’t force it crooked. Keep it straight, use gentle, even pressure, and let the retaining screw finish the job. Resist the urge to grease the shaft; a clean, dry fit plus the end screw is the right recipe for security without future slipping.

Total time, including cleanup and reassembly, was under an hour on a familiar Mach 8 chassis.

Performance: back to full airflow

Airflow is where a blower wheel earns its keep. With the old wheel cracked, duct velocity had plummeted and the system was short-cycling. With the new wheel installed, airflow returned to what I’d expect from a healthy Mach 8: strong through the main registers, balanced across ducts, and able to keep up with both cooling load and heat-pump operation.

The wheel’s geometry matches the OEM profile closely, so there’s no strange whine or mismatch with the scroll housing. It builds static pressure properly and doesn’t stall at higher fan speeds. If your filters and coils are clean, you should see a noticeable improvement versus a worn or damaged wheel, especially at the farthest ducts.

Noise and balance

Fans like this transmit their personality in two ways: humming through the housing and whoosh at the vents. The JYINCPED wheel runs quietly. There’s the expected rush of air on high, but I didn’t pick up any cyclical “tick” or flutter that would indicate a balance issue. That calm behavior continues through the entire speed range.

Balance matters for motor longevity, too. A wobbly cage can take out motor bearings and rattle screws loose across the unit. After installation, I checked fasteners and revisited them a week later—nothing had walked out, and there’s no vibration through the roof deck beyond normal operation.

Durability to date

I’ve run this wheel daily for weeks, including long heat-pump cycles overnight and several hours of cooling during a mild warm spell. No signs of stress cracks, no creeping towards the housing, and no discoloration from heat. The hub-to-shaft interface remains tight. I’ll update my notes if that changes with hotter weather, but the early signs are positive.

As with any blower, overall system health affects longevity. Keep your return filters clean, vacuum the evaporator coil periodically, and ensure the condensate path is clear. A clean system reduces drag on the blower, which reduces heat and extends the life of both the wheel and the motor.

Small gripes and tips

• The push onto the motor shaft is tight. Plan for a few extra minutes to prep the shaft and seat the wheel squarely. A deep socket that bears on the metal hub, not the plastic vanes, is your friend.
• Note the factory axial position before removal. A photo helps. Too far in or out can cause rubbing or a gap that reduces efficiency.
• Spin and listen before firing the unit. If you hear faint scraping, nudge the wheel by a millimeter or two and retest.
• Pack a Torx bit set on the roof. Many Coleman fasteners, including the end screw on my unit, are Torx.
• If your old wheel “grenaded,” inspect the scroll housing for chips or bent edges. Clean debris thoroughly so nothing contacts the new wheel.

Who this replacement suits

• RV owners with Coleman Mach 8 or Mach 8 Plus systems who need a direct replacement for the 1472A1191 wheel.
• Full-time travelers who want a spare on hand; this is a small part that can sideline your climate control if it fails.
• DIYers comfortable with rooftop work and basic hand tools.

If you have a different Coleman series, or a non-Mach rooftop unit, confirm part numbers—blower wheels are not universal, even within the same brand.

Verdict

The JYINCPED blower wheel brought my Mach 8 back to proper airflow with minimal fuss. It fits like the original, runs quietly, and appears well balanced and durable. The only hiccup is the intentionally snug fit on the motor shaft, which demands a clean shaft, careful alignment, and a bit of patience. Once seated, it stays put and does exactly what a good squirrel cage should: move a lot of air without calling attention to itself.

Recommendation: I recommend this blower wheel for Mach 8 and Mach 8 Plus owners needing a 1472A1191-compatible replacement. It installs with basic tools, restores performance, and has behaved like an OEM part in my unit, all while being a practical item to keep as a spare for peace of mind on the road.