Shepherd Hardware 9092 2-1/2-Inch Carpet Base Furniture Cups, Brown, 4-Pack

A small accessory that solved a big flooring problem

Small hardware can make a big difference in a home shop or living space. That’s been my experience with these 2-1/2-inch furniture cups from Shepherd. I’ve used them under a steel aquarium stand on oak, a heavy sectional on engineered hardwood, and a buffet on vinyl plank. In each case, the goal was the same: protect the surface and make repositioning less stressful. The cups did both reliably, without fuss.

What they are and who they’re for

These are rigid, round metal cups with a gray carpeted underside. Furniture feet or casters sit inside the 2-1/2-inch inner diameter, and the carpet side contacts the floor. Each pack includes four cups. They’re intended for hard surfaces—hardwood, laminate, tile, linoleum, and similar—where you want to avoid scratches, gouges, and dents from point loads or wheels.

If you regularly move heavy pieces for cleaning, or you have furniture with small, hard feet that love to bruise wood and vinyl, these cups are a simple solution. If you need something for constantly shuffled seating—like dining chairs—skip these and use adhesive or nail-on glides. The cups aren’t meant to stay attached to moving furniture.

Design and build quality

Construction is straightforward but solid. The cup bodies are metal, not plastic, which gives confidence under heavier loads and resists deformation. The finish is a dark brown that visually disappears under most darker furniture. The underside is covered with a dense gray carpet that acts as the interface with the floor. It’s not fluffy; it’s a short, tight weave that slides without grabbing and doesn’t shed.

The 2-1/2-inch inner diameter is the important spec. Measure your furniture feet or caster wheels. If they’re round and up to roughly 2-1/4 inches across, you’ll get a snug fit with a little centering tolerance. Square legs fit as well, provided their diagonal isn’t greater than the inner diameter. If your legs are much smaller, they’ll still work; just center them so the load sits evenly in the cup.

Setup and sizing tips

“Installation” is as simple as setting the cups in place and lowering the furniture into them. A few habits make it go smoother:

• Measure first: Confirm each leg or caster will sit entirely within the 2-1/2-inch opening.
• Clean the contact points: Wipe grit off the floor and off the furniture feet. Trapped grit is the enemy of any floor protection.
• Center the load: Especially with casters, ensure the wheel sits squarely in the cup so weight is distributed evenly.
• Check clearance: The cups add a small lift. It’s usually negligible, but on pieces with tight clearances (like media cabinets under wall shelves) it’s worth a quick check.

Performance on hardwood, laminate, and vinyl

On oak hardwood, the cups immediately did what felt pads rarely manage long-term: they distributed load and prevented denting and scuffing. My steel aquarium stand—essentially four narrow metal feet carrying a lot of weight—had been leaving faint compression marks. In the cups, those marks stopped. The wider carpet footprint spreads the load across a larger area, and there’s no sharp edge to bite into the finish.

On engineered hardwood and vinyl plank, they prevented the fine arc-shaped scuffs that casters can produce, especially when a piece twists slightly under load. The carpeted underside rides smoothly without grinding. That “smooth ride” comes with a bonus: even very heavy furniture is easier to nudge for cleaning or layout adjustments. My sectional, which normally argues with me, slides on these with controlled effort, rather than jerking and squealing.

On tile, the cups worked, though you’ll feel a bit more texture in the slide depending on your grout lines. They don’t catch, but they don’t glide as quietly as on wood or vinyl.

Grip versus glide

A key trait of these cups is that they’re designed to protect and to enable movement, not to lock furniture in place. The carpet base reduces friction compared to rubber or silicone. That’s good for repositioning and bad if you expect high grip, for example on a bench you lean into aggressively or a chair that’s constantly scooted in and out.

For pieces that must not budge—tall bookcases, tool chests you yank around, or seating—the glide can be a downside. In those cases, I’d choose a rubber-bottom cup or adhesive-backed felt/silicone glides that stay with the leg and add more traction. For stationary heavy furniture you occasionally move, these Shepherd cups strike an excellent balance.

Durability and maintenance

After months under heavy loads, the metal cups have held their shape, and the carpet backing hasn’t compressed into a permanent divot or peeled. That’s the advantage of a rigid cup: the furniture foot isn’t relying on a foam or felt pad to carry all the weight at a tiny point. The carpet shows minor polish where it contacts the floor, but no thinning or fraying.

Maintenance is minimal. Every so often, lift a leg and tap the cup to shake out dust. If you mop or there’s a spill, don’t let the carpet sit wet—lift the cup, dry it, and wipe the floor. I’ve had no discoloration transfer to any finish, but as with any floor protection, test in an inconspicuous spot if you have an unusual finish or oiled floor.

Aesthetics and footprint

They’re intentionally low-profile. On darker floors or under darker furniture, you have to look for them to notice. On light floors, the brown ring is visible if the piece has a high stance, but it’s still tidy and uniform, not an eyesore. The wider footprint actually makes narrow metal feet look more anchored and finished.

Where these shine

• Heavy furniture on hard floors: Sofas, buffets, aquarium stands, file cabinets, safes—anything with small feet that concentrates weight.
• Casters on hard surfaces: The cups capture small wheels so they don’t imprint or scuff, and the carpet stops the “caster squeak.”
• Occasional repositioning: They make sliding a 200-pound piece a controlled, one-person job on most smooth floors.
• Rental or new floors: Non-marking and easy to remove without adhesive residue.

Where they struggle

• Frequently moved seating: Dining chairs, rolling office chairs, and stools will walk out of the cups or shift them around.
• Grippy applications: If you need a piece to stay fixed with high traction, a rubber-bottom solution is better.
• Oversized legs or unusual shapes: If your legs exceed the 2-1/2-inch opening or have ornate shapes that won’t sit flat, you’ll need larger cups or a different style.

Value and options

As a four-pack, the cost-per-leg is reasonable, especially given the metal construction. Many plastic or all-felt options are cheaper upfront but flatten, peel, or trap grit that then scratches the floor. If you’re protecting an expensive hardwood finish or a long run of vinyl plank, the price of these cups is easy to justify.

If you need more traction or a different look, Shepherd and others make rubber-bottom cups in similar sizes. And if your furniture legs are much smaller, adhesive silicone caps that grip the leg itself can be a better match. The key is to choose based on motion (static vs. frequently moved) and the contact surface (hard vs. soft).

Practical tips to get the most out of them

• Use two packs for four-legged pieces with center supports or sectionals with many feet.
• Label cup positions with painter’s tape when you pull a piece out; it makes re-centering quick.
• For casters, lock them before placing the cup to avoid the wheel rolling within the cup as you lower the load.
• If you need a bit more grip, a thin, clear polyurethane floor finish under the cups (i.e., well-cured surface) offers more friction than an oil-soap polished floor.

Recommendation

I recommend these furniture cups for protecting hard-surface floors under heavy or stationary pieces that you occasionally reposition. They distribute load well, prevent scuffs and indentations, and make moving large items far easier without resorting to temporary sliders or blankets. The metal construction inspires confidence, the carpeted base is gentle and non-marking, and installation is as simple as setting them down.

I wouldn’t use them for dining chairs or any piece that’s constantly moved because they aren’t attached and the carpeted underside prioritizes glide over grip. But for sofas, cabinets, aquarium stands, and similar furniture, they’re a reliable, low-profile, and cost-effective way to keep floors looking new while preserving your back when it’s time to shift things around.