BLUERICE Submersible Fish Finder, Underwater Lure Bait Light, Fish Attracting Lamp, Night Fishing Light, Boat Fishing Light, Pool Light 12V 10.8W 180 LEDs 1080 Luminous IP68 with 5M Cord

What this light is meant to do

The BLUERICE bait light is a simple, submersible green LED tube designed to draw plankton, baitfish, squid, and the predators that follow. It runs on 12 V, pulls about 10.8 W (roughly 0.9 A), and pushes light in a full 360-degree pattern from 180 small SMD LEDs. It’s IP68-rated and arrives with a 5 m cord and a built-in iron weight so it sinks without any extra hardware. On paper, it’s straightforward. In practice, it’s become one of the easiest ways I’ve found to bring life to the water around a dock, kayak, or small boat at night.

Setup and build quality

Out of the box, the tube feels compact and dense, with the weighted end clearly marked by a slightly bulkier cap. The LEDs are arranged on five faces inside the clear housing, which spreads light evenly without hot spots. The ends are sealed with thick rubber plugs, and the wire entry point is potted cleanly. There’s no switch—this is a direct 12 V device—so I wired it to a fused lead with alligator clips for a battery and also tried a 12 V socket adapter on my skiff.

A few small build touches matter on a light like this:

• The weight is internal and corrosion-protected, so it drops quickly and stays vertical.
• The LED boards sit on heat-sinking strips. You can’t see much, but in water the body stays cool, which is what you want for LED longevity.
• The cord is flexible enough not to coil memory around the tube; it sinks without trying to float the tail.

I would have liked strain relief that’s a touch more robust at the cord entry, but with ordinary care it’s fine. The 5 m lead is generous for a kayak or dock; on deeper structure I added a marine-grade 12 V extension and didn’t notice meaningful voltage drop at this current draw.

On the water: performance and attraction

Green light in the 520–540 nm range is a proven attractant for plankton and small critters, and this unit leans into that wavelength. In relatively clear freshwater, I started seeing micro-life in a few minutes and small shiners within 15–20 minutes. By the 45–60 minute mark, the perimeter around the light was thick with bait, and the bigger fish started to work the edges. It’s not magic—you still need to fish smart—but having a defined, lit “bait ball zone” provides a clear target and makes presentations predictable.

In saltwater, I used it off a pier and from an anchored skiff in 10–20 feet. It lit about a 10–15 foot radius in stained tidal water and a bit farther in clearer conditions. Squid oriented quickly, and I could pick them off with jigs without spooking them as long as I kept movement outside the brightest core. In truly muddy water after a blow, the light still helped, but the effective radius shrank—physics will have its say.

Under ice, lowering it through an 8-inch hole gave me a column of green that cut through the dark lake like a beacon. The self-sinking weight is handy here; I didn’t need to fuss with clip-on sinkers, and repositioning was easy.

Brightness and beam

If you’re chasing raw lumen bragging rights, there are brighter, bulkier lights out there. This one is rated for 1080 lumens. What matters is how those lumens are used. The five-sided arrangement and 360-degree throw create a uniform cylinder of light with a soft edge. That edge is where bigger fish patrol, and I appreciated that I could position baits just outside the core glow and watch hits on a bright night without spooking fish.

For pool use, the green is striking and a little eerie—in a fun way. It’s not designed as a permanent fixture, but as a drop-in accent for an evening swim it works and sips power. I kept all connections well away from water and used a proper outdoor-rated 12 V power supply on a GFCI circuit.

Power draw and runtime

The measured current draw hovered just under 1 A at 12.6–13.2 V from a LiFePO4 battery. That aligns with the 10.8 W spec. In practical terms, a 50 Ah battery can run it for more than two full nights. I ran the light from a 12.8 V 100 Ah LiFePO4 across multiple long sessions and barely dented capacity compared to running a bigger LED flood.

Important note: LEDs dissipate heat into the surrounding water. Don’t run it in air for long. I briefly powered it dry for function checks and could feel the housing warm up. In water, it remained cool to the touch.

Waterproofing and durability

The IP68 claim held up in my dunk tests and actual use. I left it submerged for hours, checked for fogging or condensation, and saw none. The seals and potting look decent for the price. That said, waterproof lights live and die by endcaps and cable entries. A few habits help:

• Avoid using the cord as a grab handle; lift from the tube when possible.
• Keep electrical connections above water and strain-relieved.
• Rinse with fresh water after salt use and let it air-dry before storage.
• Inspect the end seals occasionally for nicks or grit.

I’m mindful that any submersible gear can have unit-to-unit variability. Before heading out, I recommend a bucket test: power it up, submerge for an hour, and look for bubbles or moisture inside.

Where it excels

• Night fishing from small boats, kayaks, and docks where a light, low-draw unit makes the most sense.
• Squid and bait gathering; it gets small life moving fast and stacks bait predictably.
• Ice fishing, thanks to the self-sinking weight and small footprint.
• Portable use; it packs easily and doesn’t require extra weights.

Limitations and trade-offs

• The 5 m cord is generous but still short for deep suspended work unless you run an extension (which is easy at ~1 A).
• No switch or dimming—this is a simple on/off tool. A waterproof inline switch would be a nice upgrade.
• The housing is tough but not indestructible. Avoid banging it on rocks or dropping it on a hard deck.
• It’s single-color. If you want white or blue options in the same session, you’ll need a different light.

Tips for best results

• Give it time. Expect 10–20 minutes for micro-life, 20–40 minutes for baitfish, and predators afterward.
• Hang it a few feet below the surface rather than on the bottom; you’ll get a wider, cleaner cone.
• Position baits just outside the brightest core. Predators tend to hunt the edge.
• In current, set it slightly up-current of where you want to fish; bait will line up down-current in the glow.
• Use a fused lead (2–3 A fuse is plenty) and keep all connections dry and protected.

The bottom line

The BLUERICE bait light does the core job very well: it attracts life, it’s easy to deploy, and it barely sips from a 12 V battery. The 360-degree output is even, the sink weight saves hassle, and the waterproofing has been solid in my use with basic care. It’s not a feature-laden showpiece and it doesn’t try to be—it’s a dependable, compact tool that punches above its size for night fishing and casual pool lighting.

Recommendation: I recommend this light to anglers who want an affordable, efficient, and portable submersible green light for drawing bait and fish around docks, kayaks, and small boats, as well as for under-ice use. It’s also a fun, low-energy pool accent for occasional evenings. Skip it if you need a very long factory cord, multi-color modes, or heavy-duty commercial construction. For most recreational scenarios, its combination of low power draw, true 360-degree coverage, and self-sinking design make it a smart addition to the night-fishing kit.