Moicstiy 6Pcs 3/4 Inch NPT Liquid Tight Connector Nonmetallic Straight Electrical Conduit Connector Fitting, UL Listed PVC Flexible Conduit Fittings

Why I reached for these connectors

On a recent mini‑split install and an outdoor lighting refresh, I needed a handful of straight liquid‑tight connectors that wouldn’t fight me in the field. I grabbed a six‑pack of Moicstiy 3/4‑inch liquid‑tight connectors to see how they’d stack up against the usual big‑box options. They’re nonmetallic PVC, UL listed, supplied with locknuts and gaskets, and advertise a push‑on, tool‑free install. After using the pack across a few boxes—some new, some older and a bit crusty—I came away impressed with how quickly they go in and how reliably they seal.

What stood out

• The push‑on install is legitimately quick. Seat the flexible conduit onto the collar, hand‑tighten the dome nut, and you get a uniform compression seal without wrestling with disassembly.
• The included gaskets and locknuts are actually useful. On knockouts, I got a clean, water‑tight interface without needing to dig around for extra hardware.
• The grip on the conduit is strong. Even on older, slightly hardened liquid‑tight, the collet and seal clamped down evenly and resisted pullout.
• For nonmetallic connectors, the bodies feel stout. The PVC doesn’t deflect much under hand pressure, and the threads are clean and consistent.

Installation experience

I tried these in two configurations:

1) Through a standard 3/4‑inch KO with the included locknut and flat gasket on an outdoor steel box.
2) Into a threaded hub on a disconnect.

In both cases, thread engagement was smooth and the taper felt true. For knockouts, the locknut’s fit was tight and the gasket compressed evenly around the hole. On the threaded hub, I skipped the locknut and seated the male NPT directly; the body shoulder registered nicely. I didn’t need thread sealant—the sealing happens at the dome/gasket interface—but I did make sure the gasket was placed on the weather side when using the KO.

The push‑on mechanism speeds things up. Square‑cut the conduit, lightly deburr, then push until you feel it bottom out. Hand‑tightening the dome nut gave me a positive stop. I’ll admit I gave it a gentle snug with pliers for outdoor runs—old habit—but it really doesn’t take much. Removing and reusing one of the connectors after a test fit worked fine; the sealing ring didn’t deform or fray.

Build and materials

These are nonmetallic PVC fittings rated for liquid‑tight flexible conduit. The material choice has pros and cons:

• Pros: corrosion‑proof in damp and salty environments, no galvanic issues against dissimilar metals, lighter, and generally kinder to painted surfaces.
• Cons: no metallic bonding path—so you need a dedicated equipment grounding conductor in the raceway. If you rely on metallic continuity for grounding, these are not the right choice.

The bodies are molded cleanly, the dome nuts spin freely without gritty spots, and the internal compression ferrule seats evenly. The sealing gaskets are uniform and didn’t shed rubber when tightened. I’ve seen cheaper fittings where the locknut burrs or the dome nut cross‑threads; that wasn’t the case here.

Performance in use

Sealing: I hosed down the outdoor junctions after install. No intrusion past the knockout gasket or through the conduit end. The compression seal on the conduit remained dry, even oriented upward and exposed. A week of intermittent rain didn’t reveal any weeping.

Grip: With moderate pull, the conduit didn’t budge. That’s important on minisplit runs where a loop of conduit can act like a lever on a breezy wall. The dome nut held its torque after a few days of sun and cooling cycles.

Cable passage: The internal bore is adequate for typical 3/4‑inch LFNC-B scenarios—say, two or three THHN conductors and a ground, or a pre‑jacketed whip. If you’re trying to stuff multiple larger-gauge THHN conductors, the connector’s internal step where the compression ferrule lives can be a pinch point. Staggering conductor tips and using a touch of wire lube eliminated snags for me. If you’re regularly pulling three or four 8 AWG THHN, you’ll be happier stepping up to 1‑inch fittings.

Fit and compatibility notes

• Thread length: The male threads are standard for this class of connector. In most sheet‑metal boxes and common cast enclosures, there’s enough bite. On extra‑thick walls or double‑gasketed situations, you’ll want to check engagement; a bonding hub or a longer‑neck fitting may be safer if you’re marginal.
• Box interfaces: The included locknuts are fine and seat squarely. If you need a bonding locknut for code reasons, swap accordingly.
• Conduit type: These are designed for liquid‑tight flexible non‑metallic conduit (LFNC). They’ll also clamp liquid‑tight metallic in a pinch, but the grip and seal are optimized for nonmetallic.
• Temperature and UV: The connectors held shape and color during a sunny week of testing. I can’t quote a temperature rating beyond what UL listing implies, so for high‑temperature or heavy UV exposure, verify against your conduit and job requirements.

Small drawbacks

• Thread engagement can be short on thick‑wall enclosures. Not a flaw, just something to measure before you commit.
• The internal bore has a slight shoulder from the compression mechanism. It’s not a problem for most pulls, but if you’re pushing conductor fill limits, plan your pull technique or use the next size up.
• Tool‑free is mostly true, but I still prefer a light wrench snug on exterior applications. The dome nut texture is grippy, yet gloves and sweat can make it slippery.

Tips for a cleaner install

• Cut the conduit square and knock off the burr. You’ll get a better seal and easier push‑in.
• Place the gasket on the wet side when using knockouts. Compress it evenly; don’t overtighten the locknut.
• Stagger conductor tips by 1/2 inch for multi‑wire pulls through the connector to reduce snags at the internal step.
• Mark the conduit insertion depth on your first fitting; use that mark to quickly verify the rest are fully seated.
• If you need bonding continuity, use bonding hardware or choose a metallic fitting; these nonmetallic connectors won’t serve as a ground path.

Value and who it’s for

You’re getting six connectors with gaskets and locknuts, ready to cover a small job’s worth of boxes without another supply run. For routine indoor and outdoor terminations—HVAC disconnects, pumps, outdoor lighting, and shop equipment—these hit the right balance of speed and seal. If your work leans heavily on thick‑walled enclosures or high conductor counts, keep an eye on thread depth and consider whether 1‑inch hardware would serve you better.

Recommendation

I recommend the Moicstiy 3/4‑inch liquid‑tight connectors. They install quickly, seal reliably, and hold conduit securely without requiring tools. The included gaskets and locknuts are functional, not an afterthought, and the nonmetallic bodies resist corrosion in damp and marine‑adjacent environments. Be mindful of two things: thread length on unusually thick enclosures and conductor fill if you’re pushing 3/4‑inch to its limits. For most everyday electrical work with LFNC, these connectors are a straightforward, cost‑effective choice that save time without cutting corners.