MZCR-NNML 1Pack Toolbox Lock with Keys 5/8 Inch Cabinet Locks Keyed Alike Tubular Cam Lock Hook Cam with Zinc Alloy

Why I swapped my old latch for this cam lock

A broken toolbox latch is the kind of small nuisance that snowballs into lost time. My shop box had a sloppy wafer lock that would barely catch, and I wanted something simple, sturdy, and consistent. I went with this 5/8-inch tubular cam lock—compact, keyed alike (two identical keys included), and built around a zinc alloy body—and put it through its paces on a steel toolbox and a shop cabinet door. It’s an understated piece of hardware that does exactly what it’s supposed to do, but there are a few sizing and use nuances worth noting if you’re considering it for your own gear.

Build quality and what’s in the package

• Zinc alloy body with a black finish
• 5/8-inch (17 mm) cylinder length
• Requires a 3/4-inch (19 mm) mounting hole
• 90-degree turn to lock/unlock
• Key removable in both locked and unlocked positions
• Two tubular keys (keyed alike)
• Assorted mounting hardware (including bolts/screws)

The lock feels solid in the hand, with clean casting and a finish that’s even and free of burrs. The tubular keyway is precisely cut; the keys slide in cleanly and seat with a positive stop. The cam itself engages securely, and the included hardware gave me enough flexibility to mount it on two different door setups without a trip to the bin of mystery fasteners.

This is a single lock with two keys keyed alike—useful in practice because you can stash one key on your ring and one where you need quick access. If you plan to outfit multiple boxes or doors and want them all keyed alike, you’ll need to source additional locks from the same series or verify key codes with the seller.

Installation: straightforward, with two caveats

Installing the lock on my steel toolbox took under 10 minutes:

1. Remove the old lock and clean up the hole.
2. Confirm the hole is 3/4 inch (19 mm). If yours is smaller, a step bit makes short work of enlarging it—just go slow to avoid tearing thin steel.
3. Slide the new cylinder through the panel from the front.
4. Orient the cam so it catches your strike or frame properly.
5. Secure the backing nut and fasteners. Snug, not gorilla-tight—zinc threads don’t like over-torquing.
6. Test the 90-degree throw, then fine-tune cam orientation if needed.

On my plywood shop cabinet, I drilled a clean 3/4-inch hole and used a small steel strike plate on the frame. The 5/8-inch cylinder length worked well with both thin sheet metal and the cabinet door. If you’re working with extra-thick panels or recessed doors, measure carefully; 5/8 inch is a compact cylinder length and may run short if you need to clear a deep face or thick overlay. For most toolboxes, drawers, and RV compartments with standard sheet-metal doors, it’s a good match.

Two practical tips:
- Mind the orientation. The cam can be flipped to catch a lip above, below, or beside the cylinder depending on your door and strike.
- Check interference. Make sure the cam has room to swing its 90-degree arc without hitting internal shelves or edges.

Daily use: smooth action and predictable feel

The 90-degree throw is crisp, with just enough resistance to avoid accidental rotation. Operation is clockwise-to-lock on my setup, but you can mount the cam to suit your preferred direction. The key turns smoothly and pulls out cleanly in both the locked and unlocked positions.

Key removal in both positions is a blessing and a risk:
- Pro: You can leave the lock open while you’re actively working, pocket the key, and not fight spring-back.
- Con: It’s easier to walk away with the box unlocked and no visual cue from a dangling key.

My solution is a simple habit: lock it before you step away, and if you intend to keep it open, hang a tag on the handle. For shared spaces, this behavior is even more important.

Noise and feel are both reassuring. When the cam bites, you hear and feel the engagement rather than a tinny rattle. There’s very little play in the mechanism, and the tubular key’s round grip provides better leverage than flat keys, especially with gloved hands.

Security: good deterrence, not a safe lock

Tubular cam locks like this one are a step up from the cheapest wafer locks you’ll find on bargain cabinets. For a toolbox, drawer, mailbox, or RV hatch, it provides an honest deterrent against casual snooping and keeps doors positively latched in transit. That said:

• Zinc alloy is strong enough for its purpose but not “high security.”
• The cam is only as secure as the panel and strike you mount it to.
• If you’re protecting expensive electronics or firearms, consider a higher-security enclosure with reinforced hasps or a dedicated safe.

If your goal is to keep tools in place, prevent accidental opening in a vehicle, and discourage opportunistic tampering, this lock hits the mark.

Durability and maintenance

After weeks of daily use in a dusty shop, the finish still looks good, and the action hasn’t changed. Zinc alloy resists corrosion well in indoor and light outdoor environments; for constant exposure to rain and road spray (e.g., on an exposed trailer box), I’d add a light rubber gasket or periodically wipe the cylinder to keep grit out.

Maintenance is simple:
- Keep the keyway clean; blow out dust occasionally.
- If it ever feels gritty, use a dry lubricant like graphite or a PTFE lock spray. Avoid oil-based lubes that attract dust.

The hardware has stayed tight with normal use. If you install on thin sheet metal, a small backing plate inside the door can distribute load and keep the nut from loosening over time.

Fit and compatibility: key sizing notes

• Cylinder length: 5/8 inch (17 mm). Works best on thin to moderate door thicknesses common to toolboxes, cabinets, and RV compartments.
• Hole size: 3/4 inch (19 mm). If your existing hole is smaller, you’ll need to enlarge it.
• Clearance: Make sure the cam has room for a full 90-degree swing.

If you’re retrofitting a vintage toolbox, check hole size first. Some older boxes use smaller cutouts; a step bit solves that, but take your time to avoid oval holes. If your panel is unusually thick or recessed, you may need a longer cylinder length; in that case, look for 7/8-inch or 1-1/8-inch variants of similar locks.

Where it shines—and where it doesn’t

Strengths:
- Smooth, positive 90-degree action with a clear latch feel
- Compact size fits common toolbox and cabinet doors
- Two identical keys included; simple to use and easy to share with a partner
- Clean, durable finish; hardware included for straightforward installation

Limitations:
- 5/8-inch cylinder won’t suit extra-thick doors or deep overlays
- Requires a 3/4-inch hole—some retrofits need drilling
- Key can be removed when unlocked; great for workflow, risky for forgetful users

The bottom line

This cam lock is exactly what I want for everyday shop storage: quick to install, smooth to operate, and sturdy enough to keep doors closed and honest hands honest. It’s not trying to be a vault—and that’s fine. The zinc alloy construction, predictable 90-degree throw, and key-in/ key-out flexibility make it a practical upgrade for toolboxes, cabinets, mailboxes, and RV compartments that see regular use.

I recommend this lock for anyone who needs a reliable, compact cam lock for light- to medium-duty security and tidy door control. Measure your panel thickness and confirm the 3/4-inch hole requirement, and you’ll have a painless install and a lock that behaves the way a shop tool should: predictably, every day.