DWALE Liquid-Tight Conduit and Connector Kit, Flexible Non-Metallic Electrical 3/4inch 25ft Conduit, with 5 Straight and 3 Angle Fittings Included, 3/4 in. Dia.

Why I reached for this kit

A few recent projects had me zig‑zagging around tight corners and equipment where rigid conduit would have been a hassle: a mini‑split condenser whip, a short outdoor run to a shed disconnect, and a pool equipment hookup. For all three, I used the DWALE 3/4‑inch liquid‑tight kit. It’s a non‑metallic, flexible conduit with eight connectors in the box (five straight, three 90s), and it aims to make small to medium electrical runs fast, clean, and weatherproof without having to assemble a cart full of separate fittings.

What you get

• 25 feet of flexible, non‑metallic, liquid‑tight conduit
• Nominal 3/4 in. trade size (about 1 in. OD with a stout wall)
• Five straight connectors and three 90‑degree connectors
• Integrated gaskets and dome sealing nuts
• Gray color, sunlight‑resistant PVC

That’s a genuinely useful kit configuration. On most outdoor appliance hookups, I end up needing more straight connectors than elbows, and eight total fittings covers a panel-to-disconnect-to-equipment setup with some spares left over.

Build quality and handling

The conduit itself strikes a good balance: pliable enough to snake behind equipment without fighting you, but stiff enough to hold a path and not collapse when you tighten straps. It’s about half the weight of metallic liquid‑tight, yet the wall feels confident—not flimsy. Underfoot, it resists flattening better than some bargain non‑metallic I’ve used, which matters when you’re attaching straps or pushing it into the ferrule.

The jacket is the typical smooth PVC used for LFNC‑B style products. It’s rated for oil, water, and sunlight exposure, and I’ve left a test offcut on a south‑facing wall long enough to decide I’m not worried about UV. For direct burial, it’s appropriate provided you observe local depth and backfill requirements; I usually bed it in sand and avoid sharp rock to keep the jacket happy over time.

Connectors and the “tool‑free” claim

The kit’s connectors use a ferrule with a dome sealing nut. In practice:

• Cut the conduit square.
• Push the conduit onto the ferrule until fully seated.
• Spin down the dome nut by hand.

And yes, you can get a watertight seal by hand. That said, I still do two extra things out of habit: I give the locknut a snug quarter‑turn with pliers inside the enclosure, and I ensure the dome nut is solidly hand‑tight with a final palm push. The included gaskets and O‑rings compress evenly, and I didn’t see any weeping during a hose test on a vertical run.

Threading the connectors into metal knockouts went as expected, though there’s one caveat: because the body is non‑metallic and the locknut is relatively thin, it’s easier than with metallic fittings to start a little crooked. If you feel resistance, back off and re‑start square. Once started cleanly, they draw up fine. On one enclosure with slightly rough paint inside the KO, I chased the edge with a deburring tool to make the locknut bite more cleanly.

Pulling conductors and fill

For 3/4‑inch flexible non‑metallic, typical residential pulls are straightforward. I ran three 10 AWG THHN conductors plus a 12 AWG control, and later a set of 12/2 conductors for lighting. Both pulls went smoothly with a light application of cable lube and a pull string. The corrugated interior introduces more friction than EMT, but the run lengths I tackled (under 25 feet with two bends) were easy.

A few tips that helped:

• Square cuts matter. A slanted end fights the ferrule and can compromise the seal.
• Deburr the cut to avoid shaving the jacket into the ferrule.
• If you’re pulling multiple conductors, stagger the tips with tape and taper the leading edge.
• Use the supplied 90s instead of forcing tight field bends; you’ll protect both jacket and conductors.

Weather resistance and durability

I pressure‑sprayed the outdoor terminations after installation and saw no sign of moisture ingress. The sealing hardware compresses predictably, and the conduit jacket shrugs off abrasion from siding and concrete edges. I wouldn’t choose non‑metallic liquid‑tight for environments with frequent direct impacts or heavy traffic (warehouse floor sweeps, forklift zones); metallic is better there. But for residential and light‑commercial equipment connections—condensers, pumps, control cabinets—the protection level is right on the mark.

Temperature handling is what you’d expect from PVC in this class: in cool weather the conduit gets a bit stiffer but remains workable; in summer, it becomes very compliant without going gummy. For outdoor surfaces that get hot, I still prefer to route in shade and add a standoff where possible, which is more about conductor temperature than the conduit itself.

Installation experience

Over three installs, the standout benefit has been speed. Being able to measure, cut with ratcheting PVC shears, push onto the ferrule, and move on saves time versus gluing PVC or threading flex with separate bushings and raintight fittings. The 90‑degree connectors give a clean entry into enclosures without a sloppy loop, and the straight connectors hold alignment without loosening over time.

Minor nitpicks:

• It’s easy to over‑confidently spin the dome nut at a slight angle. A quick visual check that the threads are fully engaged before final tightening saves headaches.
• The locknuts are low profile. In thin enclosures they’re perfect, but in thicker knockouts or on powder‑coated boxes, I sometimes wish for a slightly more aggressive bite or a captive tooth washer. It still works—just take a moment to square the connection.

Code and grounding considerations

Because this is non‑metallic, it is not an equipment grounding path. Pull a separate grounding conductor sized for your circuit. Observe fill limits and the maximum number of 360 degrees of bend between pull points. Outdoors and for direct burial, follow your local amendments for burial depth and physical protection at transitions—stub up with rigid where required. The kit doesn’t change any of those rules; it just makes the flexible sections faster.

Where it shines, and where it doesn’t

Shines:

• Appliance whips (condensers, pool pumps, well pumps, air compressors)
• Short to medium outdoor runs where a couple of bends are needed
• Direct burial jumps between structures when allowed
• Retrofits where lining up rigid conduit is impractical

Less ideal:

• Long straight runs where EMT or PVC will be cheaper and neater
• Areas requiring a metallic raceway for bonding
• Heavy‑impact zones or locations with frequent mechanical abuse

Value

Buying liquid‑tight conduit and raintight fittings à la carte adds up quickly, and it often leaves you missing the one elbow you need. The fact that this kit bundles eight connectors matters both for cost and convenience. For the typical project length—15 to 25 feet and three or four terminations—it’s an economical solution that avoids a second trip.

Pro tips for a clean install

• Use a heat gun briefly to relax stubborn coil memory on cold days, but don’t overheat.
• Support the run every 3 feet or so to keep it tidy and reduce strain on connectors.
• Keep the last foot straight into enclosures; let the elbow do the bending.
• Label both ends before pulling; identifying conductors later is never fun.
• Keep a small tube of pull lube in the kit; it makes multi‑wire pulls painless.

The bottom line

The DWALE kit does what a good liquid‑tight bundle should: it simplifies planning, speeds up installation, and holds up outdoors without fuss. The conduit is robust for its weight, the seals are dependable, and the included mix of straight and 90‑degree connectors covers most real‑world layouts. While the “tool‑free” connectors are accurate in spirit, I still recommend a gentle snug with pliers on the locknut and a moment’s care to start threads square—do that, and the system feels as solid as any non‑metallic setup I’ve used.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit for anyone tackling outdoor equipment hookups, short flexible runs, or direct‑burial segments where non‑metallic liquid‑tight is appropriate. It’s a strong value because you get enough quality connectors in the box, the conduit is easy to work with, and the weather sealing performs as advertised. If your application demands a metallic raceway or you’re in a high‑abuse environment, choose accordingly; otherwise, this kit is an efficient, reliable way to get from point A to point B without overcomplicating the job.