Hoolerry 4 Pack Pop up Floor Electrical Outlet Cover Box Kit with 4.8A USB Charger 20Amp Waterproof Weatherproof Floor Tamper Resistant Outlet Receptacle for Countertop Home

What it is and why I tried it

I’m always looking for clean ways to get power and charging onto surfaces without clutter. The Hoolerry pop-up outlet aims to do exactly that: sit nearly flush in a floor or countertop, then rise up with a press to offer a 20A tamper‑resistant duplex and a pair of USB charging ports in a compact, gasketed module. I installed a pair—one in a kitchen island and one in a living room hardwood floor—to see how it behaves in real homes, where spills, crumbs, and daily traffic put hardware to the test.

Build and design

The unit arrives as a two-part system: a stainless bottom box that’s set into the surface, and the pop-up module with an aluminum-alloy lid and face. The gold finish is understated and looks better in person than in photos—closer to a warm champagne than bright brass. The top flange measures about 12 x 12 cm and sits flat and tidy; the recessed body is roughly 10 x 10 x 5.5 cm. Closed, it reads as a square of metal with a subtle press mark. Open, it rises to about 2.17 inches, which clears bulky plugs and USB cables without feeling intrusive on a countertop.

There’s an IP44 gasket under the lid and around the assembly. That doesn’t make it submersible, but it does fend off splashes, mop water, and the occasional overturned glass long enough for you to react. The receptacle is tamper‑resistant, which is now table stakes for residential work but still worth calling out.

The mechanism is spring-assisted with a damper. In my units, the damper is more assertive than “soft-open”—a firm press releases the lid and it pops up decisively. It’s not violent, but it’s not the slow, hydraulic glide you might imagine from the phrase “slow elastic.” I got used to it quickly. The action feels consistent and the hinges show no slop after multiple cycles.

Installation experience

Plan on a careful install. The cutout needs to be clean and square, and you’ll want to dry-fit before committing. On the stone-topped island, I epoxied the stainless box into a routed recess and ran a bead of silicone under the flange at final assembly. On the hardwood floor, I created a tight mortise and used screws and construction adhesive.

A few specifics to be aware of:

• Box depth and fill: The cavity is only about 55 mm deep. Once the pop-up is closed, most of that space is consumed by the receptacle body and mechanism. If you’re pulling 12 AWG conductors on a 20A circuit, there isn’t much room to spare. Keep conductor lengths minimal (just enough to make proper terminations), keep splices upstream, and avoid stuffing extra slack into the box.
• Terminations: The device uses set-screw terminals rather than traditional side or back-wire clamps. The line/hot is marked “L,” neutral “N” (or indicated by a blue lead), and ground is clearly marked. The color coding is not the typical black/white/green you see on US devices, so read the markings, not the colors. The screws bite well if you use the correct driver and don’t over-torque.
• Cable entry and strain relief: The stainless box has knockouts, but you’ll need your own listed cable clamp/connector. None are included. For wood floors, pre-drill any mounting holes you plan to add; for stone, plan your epoxy and masking to keep the flange clean.
• Clearances: The manufacturer guidance to leave the box slightly proud of the substrate (a few millimeters) helps the gasket compress and keeps the lid flush after final finishes are applied.
• Protection: In kitchens, tie this into a GFCI/AFCI-protected circuit as required by local code. If your jurisdiction requires listed countertop pop-up assemblies, confirm the markings on the device and packaging before you commit to cutting stone.

The included screws and washers are fine, but the printed instructions are sparse. This is an installation you measure twice, dry-fit, and then move slowly through. If you’re new to electrical work, I’d suggest having a licensed electrician handle the wiring and box placement.

Everyday use and ergonomics

Once installed, the module blends in nicely. On my island, the gold finish complements brushed brass hardware without shouting for attention. The lid resists fingerprints better than I expected; a quick wipe restores it to clean. The tamper-resistant shutters are firm but not fussy—grounded appliance plugs insert without drama.

Push to open, push to close. The spring action is positive and consistent. Because the pop-up rises briskly, I got into the habit of keeping a few fingers on the lid as it releases, which makes the motion feel more controlled. When open, the 2.17-inch height gives plenty of room for chunky wall-warts and aftermarket USB cables. There’s no wobble when plugged in; the module feels secure.

The gasketing under the lid works well for crumbs and splashes. I ran a damp cloth around the edges during cleanup with no seepage inside. On the floor unit, normal mopping hasn’t presented an issue; I avoid dragging heavy furniture legs across the lid, as with any flush hardware.

Electrical and charging performance

The receptacle is rated 20A and behaves like any decent duplex. Contact tension is strong and consistent. The USB charging ports are the older USB‑A style and advertise 4.8A total. In practice, they deliver typical 2.4A-per-port charging for phones and small tablets when one port is in use, and they share output when both are active. There’s no USB-C PD or Quick Charge negotiation here, so you won’t fast-charge modern laptops or phones that expect USB-C PD. For topping up phones, headphones, and e-readers, they’re perfectly adequate.

I didn’t notice any coil whine or heat from the USB supply during extended use. If you frequently charge devices that expect USB-C, plan to use a plug-in USB-C charger in the receptacle rather than relying on the integrated USB ports.

Where it works best

• Kitchen islands and peninsulas where you need occasional, tidy access to power and phone charging without a power strip draped over the edge.
• Living rooms and offices with open floor plans, where you want a floor outlet to serve floating furniture or conference tables without running cords to walls.
• Wood, tile, stone, and laminate surfaces with enough thickness to hold the box and allow a clean cutout.

If you need outdoor, fully exposed installations, or shower-adjacent wet zones, look elsewhere. IP44 is splash-resistant, not rainproof over the long term, and certainly not rated for submersion.

Shortcomings and gotchas

• Space is tight. If you plan to daisy-chain multiple cables or make splices in the box, the pop-up will fight you. Keep it to line-in only and do your splices upstream in a junction box with proper fill.
• The open action is brisk. It’s reliable, but not “soft.” If you want a slow, damped rise, this won’t scratch that itch.
• Documentation is minimal. Expect to figure out a few details on your own, especially around cable clamps and mounting methods.
• USB is legacy. USB-A only, with no fast-charge protocols. Great for convenience, not for modern high-wattage charging needs.
• Code considerations. In some jurisdictions and applications (particularly countertops), inspectors want listed assemblies specifically rated for that use. Verify markings and approvals before you cut surfaces you can’t easily patch.

Value

As a four-pack, the cost per unit undercuts many name-brand floor and countertop pop-up solutions by a wide margin. The trade-offs are the learning curve during installation, the absence of USB-C, and the brisk opening. Once in, though, the hardware feels sturdy and looks more expensive than it is. If you’re equipping multiple locations—an island, a built-in banquette, a living room floor—this represents solid value.

Tips for a smoother install

• Dry-fit everything and test the pop-up motion before finalizing the box depth and flange position.
• Keep conductor lengths tight and straight; avoid big loops in the cavity.
• Use a low-profile clamp fitting and enter from the side that offers the most clearance from the mechanism.
• In stone, mask the flange area before adhesive to keep cleanup easy; in wood, pre-drill mounting holes to avoid distorting the box.
• Test GFCI/AFCI protection after wiring and again after final assembly.

Recommendation

I recommend the Hoolerry pop-up outlet for homeowners and pros who want a clean, low-profile power solution in floors and countertops and are comfortable with a more involved installation. It’s well-built, looks good, and works reliably once installed. You should go in with clear expectations: the opening action is quick rather than slow, the box is tight on space (especially with 12 AWG), and the USB ports are basic. If those caveats don’t bother you—and you verify local code requirements for your application—you’ll get a tidy, durable pop-up that helps keep surfaces uncluttered at a price that’s hard to beat.