CHEDA 4 PCS Composite Decking Boards End Cap 5.5" ONLY Compatible with TREX Dark Gray

Why I tried these end caps

I picked up the CHEDA end caps to clean up the exposed cut ends on a small Trex deck refacing job. The customer didn’t want a full picture-frame border, and screws-and-plugs weren’t going to hide the hollow-ish look on some trimmed ends. On paper, these seemed straightforward: a four-pack of dark gray ABS caps, sized for a standard 5.5-inch board, snap on with adhesive or fasteners, and you’re done. I ran them through a week of install and weather to see if they’re a viable, low-effort finish.

What you get and first impressions

• Four identical dark gray caps made of rigid ABS
• Molded inner ribs intended to grip the board end
• Slight exterior radius that matches the eased edges of composite boards
• Matte finish that reads as a neutral, slightly cool dark gray

The molding quality is decent for the price: no big warps or sink marks, though I did see some minor flash at the edges and varying thickness at the inner lips. The ABS is rigid, not rubbery. In cool weather, that rigidity matters for fit.

Installation experience

My process:
1. Squared, clean end cuts on the boards (track saw, 60T blade), then a quick pass with 120-grit to remove any fuzz.
2. Wiped ends with isopropyl alcohol to remove dust and oils.
3. Dry-fit the caps to test friction fit.
4. Bonded with exterior-grade adhesive.

On straight, factory-width Trex boards, dry-fit ranged from snug to too tight. On one board I could press the cap on by hand; on two, I needed a rubber mallet; on one, it simply wouldn’t seat without modifying the part. In cool morning temps, the ABS had almost no give. Warming the cap for a few minutes in the sun (or gently with a heat gun) made a noticeable difference. Where fit was excessively tight, easing the inside ribs with a sanding block and lightly breaking the board’s back corners with 220-grit did the trick.

I settled on a small bead of polyurethane construction adhesive around the interior perimeter and a couple pea-sized dots on the flat. Tape held each cap under light pressure while the adhesive cured. I would not rely on friction alone; thermal cycling in composite is real, and anything that’s press-fit can work loose.

For mitered or angle-cut ends, the inner bottom lip of the cap can interfere. Scribing and trimming that lip with a sharp chisel or utility knife allowed a flush fit. Plan on some fitting time for anything other than a square cut.

Fit and compatibility

The product is positioned as a 5.5-inch solution, which aligns with many Trex boards. Even so, composite tolerances, deck swelling, and slight manufacturer variations mean the cap’s “just right” dimension lands on a narrow target. Here’s what I saw:

• Straight, square, true-width ends: Acceptable fit with light persuasion; adhesive mandatory.
• Boards with minor swell or fuzzed edges: Too tight until I eased the inner ribs or knocked off the board’s back corners.
• Angle cuts: Requires trimming of the cap’s inner lip to avoid a gap at the long edge.
• Slightly undersized boards: Small visual reveal at one side if the board wasn’t perfectly centered.

If you’re expecting push-on perfection, this isn’t that. If you’re comfortable with minor fitting, you can get to a visually clean result.

Appearance and color match

The dark gray reads darker and cooler than many “charcoal-ish” deck tones. On a Trex Clam Shell board, the mismatch is noticeable in direct sun and less so in shade. On deeper grays, the blend is better but still not seamless. The finish is matte enough to be unobtrusive from a standing height; up close, you can tell it’s an add-on piece.

If color-perfect edges matter to you, plan to test a single pack before committing, or consider painting the caps with an exterior-grade plastic-bonding coating to dial the hue. Paint will add maintenance down the line, but it’s a way to get closer to your specific board color.

Durability and weathering

ABS is a reasonable choice for this use—impact-resistant and dimensionally stable. After a week of sun and two rain cycles:

• No chalking or obvious color shift.
• No warping or cupping.
• Adhesive bond remained solid where I used polyurethane. On one non-adhesive dry-fit test, the cap loosened slightly after a warm afternoon, reinforcing my “adhesive required” conclusion.

Long term, I don’t expect structural issues. UV stability will depend on the ABS formulation; the matte finish should mask minor fade. If you live in a region with extreme temperature swings, I’d be even more adamant about adhesive and possibly a discreet mechanical backup like a single stainless trim screw on the underside.

Protection and moisture considerations

These caps block splash and debris from directly hitting the cut end, which helps keep the look tidy and may reduce grime wicking. Composite ends aren’t as moisture-sensitive as wood, but keeping the cellular structure shielded is still preferable for aesthetics and hygiene. One caution: a completely sealed cap could, in theory, trap water. I left a hairline vent at the bottom edge on two boards, and the other two were fully bonded. No water retention was evident after rain, but if you’re in a high-moisture climate, consider a tiny weep gap on the underside.

Value and alternatives

As a quick visual fix for a few exposed ends, these make sense—especially if you don’t want to rip and install a full border. For larger projects or for clients who expect a factory-finished look, a picture-framed fascia remains the gold standard. Other alternatives include:

• Router a slight chamfer on ends and accept the exposed composite, which can look clean if cuts are perfect.
• Use color-matched fascia/edge trim to hide ends entirely.
• Seek brand-specific caps if available in your board’s exact line and color.

These caps live in the pragmatic middle ground: faster than a border, neater than raw ends, but not invisible.

Tips to get the best result

• Install in warm conditions or warm the caps for better pliability.
• Square, clean, and slightly ease the back edges of the board before fitting.
• Dry-fit every cap; expect to sand the inner ribs or shave the bottom lip on angled cuts.
• Use an exterior polyurethane or MS polymer adhesive; tape or brace until cured.
• Wipe squeeze-out immediately; masking the board edges beforehand makes cleanup easy.
• For high-movement decks, consider a single, countersunk stainless trim screw on the underside as a backup.

The bottom line

The CHEDA end caps do what they set out to do—cover raw composite ends and neaten up the look—provided you’re willing to put in some fitting time and accept a less-than-perfect color match. The ABS construction feels durable, and with proper adhesive they stay put. The catch is consistency. Between board variances and the cap’s tight tolerances, the install swings from easy to fussy. On straight cuts in warm weather with adhesive, I got a solid outcome. On angle cuts and cool mornings, I had to trim and coax parts into place, and the visual blend was only “good from five feet.”

Recommendation: Conditional. I’d recommend these for small runs of straight, square ends where you value speed over perfection and you’re prepared to bond them in place and do minor fitting. I wouldn’t recommend them if you need a dead-on color match, have lots of mitered or nonstandard cuts, or want a guaranteed push-on fit—opt for a picture-framed border or a brand-matched solution instead.