Homax Rhodes American Paint Removal Steel Wool, Coarse Grade #3, 16 Pads

Why I reach for these pads

Old finishes, baked-on grime, and stubborn rust don’t respond well to wishful thinking. For curved profiles, tight corners, and awkward hardware, I reach for Homax #3 steel wool pads because they bite quickly and conform where paper and sanding blocks can’t. They’re coarse enough to strip and clean efficiently, yet flexible enough to wrap around moldings, pipes, and odd-shaped parts without cutting facets into the surface.

What the pads are—and aren’t

Grade #3 is a coarse, aggressive steel wool. It’s designed for removal, not for fine polishing. Out of the bag you get 16 dense pads made from uniform strands that tear cleanly and fold well. They’re at their best removing paint and varnish, knocking back rust and heavy oxidation, and scouring thick deposits of grease or mineral scale from durable surfaces like cast iron, rough steel, stove grates, and engine parts.

They are not the right choice for delicate finishes or high-polish metals. If you’re looking to burnish a waxed tabletop or polish chrome, reach for ultra‑fine (#0000) instead. Think of #3 as the demolition crew—fast, effective, and a bit messy.

Real-world use: stripping and surface prep

I started with a set of painted window sashes where sandpaper loads up quickly and flat blocks can’t chase profiles and corners. Dry, the pads cut fast but leave more swarf. Damped with a solvent (denatured alcohol for shellac; mineral spirits for oil finishes; water for water-borne latex), they grab softened finish and carry it away without clogging. The trick is to flood the pad lightly and wipe often with a rag. On the muntins and ogee edges, steel wool conformed perfectly and saved me from carving flats into the profile—a common hazard with aggressive sanding.

For larger, flat fields I wrapped a piece around a rubber sanding block. That simple move levels the cut and keeps the abrasive from scalloping the wood. It’s a much better approach than trying to palm a loose pad across a panel.

After stripping, I vacuumed thoroughly and followed with a tack cloth. With open‑grain woods (oak, ash), I’m extra cautious: fine steel fragments can lodge in the pores and later discolor under water‑based finishes. If I’m heading toward a water-borne topcoat, I’ll switch to a synthetic abrasive for the final passes.

Rust and heavy soils: where #3 shines

These pads earn their keep on ferrous metals. On a set of garden pruners and a rusty plane sole, a few minutes with light oil transformed orange scale into a dull, even surface ready for finer work. For stove grates and enameled cast iron, used wet with a degreaser, they cut through carbonized grease quickly. The key is to let chemistry do the heavy lifting: pre-soak, then scrub. You’ll go faster and the pads last longer.

For stainless cookware bottoms with brown heat tint, a small torn piece combined with a gentle cleaner restored shine without leaving visible scratches. I avoid using #3 inside polished pans or on decorative stainless fronts; for those, a finer grade or non-woven pad is safer. Always test on an inconspicuous spot—coarse steel wool can leave directional scratch patterns on softer metals.

Flexibility and control

Two things stand out in use: conformity and controllability. The strands flex into grooves and wrap around cylindrical parts with even pressure, and the pad density is high enough that you can fold to expose a fresh cutting face multiple times. I often tear each pad into thirds; a smaller bundle is easier to manipulate, and you end up with more “fresh edges” per pad.

I also like steel wool for “feathering” edges after scraping or spot repair. It blends transitions between bare wood and scuffed old finish more subtly than paper at the same aggression level, especially on molded profiles.

Durability, mess, and maintenance

Any steel wool is sacrificial; that’s the nature of the material. On broad, stubborn work (old alkyd trim or heavy rust), you’ll chew through pads. On detailed tasks, a single pad—folded and refolded—goes a long way. The 16‑pad pack feels fair for the amount of work you can get done.

Shedding and dust are part of the deal. These pads hold together well, but expect some loose filaments. A few habits make life easier:
- Wear gloves—the shards are small but sharp.
- Vacuum thoroughly after use, especially before finishing.
- Keep magnets handy; they pick up stray fibers brilliantly.
- Store pads dry and away from sparks or open flame; fine steel wool can ignite surprisingly easily.
- Don’t leave damp pads on bare steel or wood; they will rust and can stain surfaces.

If you need a permanent pest barrier for small gaps, I prefer stainless or copper mesh. Regular steel wool works in a pinch but will rust in damp environments.

Compared to alternatives

• Sandpaper: Better for flat, open areas and controlled scratch patterns. Steel wool wins on complex shapes and corners, and it’s less prone to cutting flats into profiles.
• Non-woven abrasive pads (Scotch-Brite): Cleaner and rust-proof, excellent between-coat prep with water-based finishes. They don’t cut as quickly as #3 steel wool on heavy buildup.
• Chemical strippers alone: Effective but messy. Pairing a mild stripper with these pads dramatically speeds removal and reduces clogging.

The best results often come from combining methods—scrape or strip to remove bulk, then use steel wool to chase residue out of crevices.

Fit and finish considerations

Because steel is reactive, tiny fragments can cause dark specks under water-borne finishes and corrosion on ferrous parts. After using steel wool on wood that will get a water-based topcoat, I switch to a synthetic abrasive for the final pass and vacuum thoroughly. On metals, a quick wipe with solvent and dry towel prevents flash rust.

On glass and mirror, I don’t use Grade #3 at all. If you need to address mineral deposits on glass, ultra‑fine (#0000) with a suitable cleaner is the safer route. Coarse wool may not visibly scratch some glass, but the risk isn’t worth it when finer options exist.

Value and packaging

Sixteen pads per bag is a sensible quantity for most shops. The strand quality is consistent, the pads tear predictably, and they arrive oil‑free, so you can pair them with the solvent of your choice. For high-volume stripping, you’ll still go through a bag quickly, but for mixed tasks—some paint removal, some rust work, some deep cleaning—one pack covers a surprising amount of ground.

Who will appreciate these

• Woodworkers and refinishers tackling profiles, moldings, and corner detail during strip-and-prep.
• Mechanics and DIYers cleaning engine parts, tools, and hardware with degreaser or light oil.
• Homeowners restoring stove grates, cast iron, and heavily soiled durable surfaces.

Who should look elsewhere:
- Finishers doing final rub-out or polishing—choose finer grades or non-woven pads.
- Anyone working exclusively with water-based finishes—synthetic abrasives simplify cleanup.
- Those needing scratch-safe polishing on soft metals or delicate surfaces.

Recommendation

I recommend the Homax #3 steel wool pads as a reliable, fast-cutting abrasive for removal and heavy cleaning where flexibility matters. They conform beautifully, cut aggressively when paired with the right solvent, and offer good control in spots where sandpaper struggles. As with any coarse wool, expect some mess and plan for careful cleanup; avoid using them on delicate finishes, polished metals, or glass. If you’re equipped with that understanding—and ideally a finer grade or synthetic pad for follow-up—this 16‑pad pack is a practical, capable addition to the shop that earns its space every time you need to strip, scour, or chase residue out of the details.