Fekuar 4Pcs 2" x 8' Truck Winch Tie Down Straps with RTJ Cluster Hook Heavy Duty Webbing Complete RTJ Strapes 3 Chain Link RTJ Cluster Hook Towing Truck Anchor Wrecker Tie Down

Why these straps earned a spot in my trailer kit

I keep a set of tie-downs dedicated to vehicle transport, and the Fekuar RTJ straps have become my go‑to for frame and factory tie‑point work. They’re a straightforward package: four 2-inch by 8-foot polyester straps with a three-hook RTJ cluster on one end. No ratchets included—these are strap assemblies meant to pair with your existing 2-inch ratchets or a trailer winch track. On paper they’re rated at a 3,333 lb working load limit (WLL) with 10,000 lb assembly break strength; the webbing itself is spec’d to 12,000 lb break strength and the zinc-plated cluster is stamped 4,700 lb WLL. That’s a sensible and common spec for this class, and it’s held up in use.

What the RTJ cluster gets right

The reason to choose RTJ is versatility. The three-hook cluster—R, T, and J—covers most factory tie-down holes on unibody cars as well as many frame cutouts on trucks and SUVs. In practice, this matters. On a low-slung sports car with limited clearance, the T-hook slips into the rectangular slots in the subframe without needing big movements under the car. On domestic sedans and crossovers, the R-hook often finds a home in the oval or keyhole-shaped cutouts. The J-hook is the catch-all when the other two don’t fit or when I’m reaching into wider openings. Only one hook is meant to be used at a time; the others hang free. I clip an unused hook to a nearby hole to keep it from rattling.

At 8 feet, the straps are long enough to reach from frame points to my E-track winches and 2-inch ratchets without leaving piles of excess webbing to manage. If your trailer anchors are a long way from the vehicle, you might prefer 10- or 12-foot lengths, but for most car haulers and rollback decks, eight feet is tidy and efficient.

Build and materials

The webbing feels properly dense for 2-inch HD polyester—stiff enough to feed into a ratchet, flexible enough to route around crossmembers without kinking. Stitching at the cluster end is consistent across my set, and the stitch pattern is generous for the load rating. The cluster hooks are zinc-plated steel; after a few wet hauls and a week in a damp shop, mine haven’t flashed rust. The plating also helps them slide cleanly into factory tie points without galling. The hardware is connected with three short chain links, which keeps the cluster compact and reduces the chance of the wrong hook trying to take load.

The tag is clear about the WLL (3,333 lb) and states webbing and assembly break strengths. As always, the working load limit is what matters in use, and the lowest-rated component in your system governs the whole chain.

On the trailer: setup and use

My use case spans two modes: feeding the strap into a standard 2-inch ratchet, and using it as a winch strap on a rub rail winch. The Fekuar straps handle both jobs. The webbing tracks straight into the ratchet, and the 8-foot length leaves enough tail for three to four wraps on the drum without excessive slack.

With the cluster hooked and the strap straight in line, they cinch down predictably without “walking” off the tie point. I avoid bending a strap over sharp edges; if I have to cross a flange or bracket, I add an edge guard or reroute. On cars with delicate underbodies, I value how the RTJ hooks let me use the engineered tie holes instead of improvising around suspension arms or sway bars.

Load checks mid-haul show minimal creep if I preload correctly. Polyester stretches less than nylon, which helps. I retension after the first few miles as a habit; these straps behave like any good 2-inch setup and settle slightly once the vehicle and suspension find their travel.

Safety and best practices

• Use the WLL math: a 3,333 lb strap means four straps give you comfortable capacity for most passenger vehicles when used in a proper four-point tie-down. Match or exceed the spec across your ratchet, anchor, and deck hardware.
• Use only one hook from the RTJ cluster. The others should hang clear; don’t let them take incidental load.
• Avoid sharp edges. Add sleeves or corner protectors where contact is unavoidable.
• Keep the strap line as straight as possible. Side loading a hook or dragging webbing across a bracket is a recipe for abrasion.
• Inspect before every trip. Retire a strap if you see cuts, melted fibers, deep frays, damaged stitching, or bent hardware.

Durability over time

After multiple vehicle hauls—mix of short local tows and one long interstate trip—the webbing on my set shows the usual light polish where it passes through the ratchet and around the cluster connection, but no broken fibers. Stitching remains intact, and the tags are still legible. The zinc on the hooks has taken minor scuffs without chipping. I store them dry and out of sunlight, and that helps; polyester handles UV better than nylon, but extended exposure will age any webbing.

I did notice one cosmetic scuff where a loose unused hook buzzed against the deck during transport. It didn’t affect function, but it’s a reminder to secure the unused hooks so they don’t mar painted surfaces or create noise.

Where these straps shine—and where they don’t

Strengths:
- Versatility at the hook: RTJ covers most OEM tie points without adapters.
- Manageable length: 8 feet reduces spaghetti on the deck and speeds setup.
- Honest ratings: clear WLL and assembly strength, with hardware that matches the spec.
- Corrosion resistance: zinc plating has held up in wet conditions.

Trade-offs:
- No ratchets included. If you’re just starting from scratch, you’ll need to buy 2-inch ratchets or rely on a winch track.
- Eight feet can be short on some flatbeds with widely spaced anchors; measure your rig before you commit.
- The cluster is inherently heavy and can mar finishes if you’re careless around bodywork. Wheel nets or soft loops are better for painted or sensitive areas.

Who they’re for

• Car haulers and wrecker operators who prefer tying to factory frame holes rather than suspensions or axles.
• DIY owners with trailers who occasionally transport cars and want a flexible hook set without guessing which specific hook they’ll need.
• Anyone already equipped with 2-inch ratchets or deck winches who wants a dedicated vehicle-transport strap set.

If your work centers on side-by-sides, motorcycles, or equipment with limited tie holes, consider axle straps, soft loops, or wheel nets instead. Those minimize contact with hard parts and bodywork and can be quicker in those contexts.

Tips for getting the most out of them

• Test-fit your hooks before loading. Knowing which of the RTJ options matches your vehicle saves time on the ramp.
• Keep a couple of axle straps in the same bin. They pair well when factory holes aren’t accessible or you want to isolate the strap from a sharp bracket.
• Mark the halfway point on each strap with a paint pen. It speeds equalization across left and right tie-downs.
• Rinse off road salts and grit. Abrasive grit in the weave accelerates wear.

Recommendation

I recommend the Fekuar RTJ straps for anyone who transports vehicles and wants a dependable, versatile frame/tie-point solution. They’ve handled real-world loads without drama, the ratings are appropriate and clearly labeled, the hooks fit the tie holes I encounter most often, and the 8-foot length keeps setups clean on typical car haulers. Just make sure you have compatible 2-inch ratchets or a winch track, measure your anchor spacing to confirm the length fits your trailer, and treat the webbing with the same care you’d give any load-bearing gear. With those considerations, these straps are a solid, workmanlike choice that earn their keep on the deck.