Adjust-A-Gate Steel Frame Gate Building Kit, Fits 36-60" Openings & Up to 7', Black - Heavy-Duty Outdoor Reinforcement & Accessories for Gates and Fences

Why I reached for this kit

I needed a gate that wouldn’t sag, could be sized on-site without cutting metal, and would let me skin the face to match an existing fence. The Adjust-A-Gate kit checked those boxes. It’s an all-steel, powder‑coated frame with telescoping rails and a truss cable that you tension to keep things square. It’s meant for openings from 36 to 60 inches and fences up to 7 feet tall—essentially a one‑box solution for most residential side yards and drive lanes when used as a pair.

Over the past year I installed one as a single pedestrian gate and later used a pair for a wider drive opening. Here’s how it went, what I liked, and where I think it could be improved.

What you get and how it’s built

The kit includes the vertical frame, telescoping spreader bars, frame and post hinges, a two‑way latch, truss cable hardware, and screws. The steel frame sections are straight and cleanly finished, and the powder coat has held up well for me through heat, storms, and a winter with freeze–thaw swings. There’s enough meat in the steel to feel sturdy without being awkward to handle solo.

The core idea is simple: build a rigid steel rectangle that carries the load, then apply your wood or composite facing to match the fence. The telescoping bars let you set the exact width on-site, which is the biggest advantage over a fixed-size pre-fab gate. No cutting required, just slide to size and lock it down.

Installation experience

I’d call this a confident DIY project. If you can hang a door and work a drill, you can put this together. Here are the steps and tips that made the difference:

• Layout first. I laid the components out on sawhorses and dry-fit the frame to my opening. This helped me decide where to land the rails relative to my fence rails and plan for latch height.
• Square the frame before skinning. Assemble the vertical and horizontal members, snug the fasteners, and use the truss cable to pull the frame into square. Measure diagonals and adjust the turnbuckle until they match.
• Pre-drill everything. The included wood screws will bite better and seat flush with a properly sized pilot hole. This also reduces any chance of splitting fence boards.
• Use better fasteners where it counts. The provided screws are adequate for the frame, but for the hinges I prefer exterior-grade structural screws or lag bolts into solid post stock. That’s cheap insurance against long-term sag.
• Hinge prep. The post hinges require drilling/recessing at the posts. A sharp 1/2-inch spade or Forstner bit and a depth stop make this cleaner and faster. I also grease the hinge pins before dropping the gate on—smooth swing from day one.

Working alone, the pedestrian gate took me an afternoon, much of that set up and careful measuring. The pair for the drive opening took a bit longer because I wanted the pickets to line up perfectly across both leaves.

Hinge and swing considerations

The hinges mount inside the posts and, by default, bias the gate to swing inward. You can configure for outward swing if needed, but plan your clearances and latch location ahead of time. On my kit, the supplied hinge brackets oriented one pin up and one down. That’s perfectly secure and works well in use, but it means you can’t simply lift the gate off both pins for removal without undoing hardware. If you prefer a lift-off configuration (both pins up), budget for alternate hinge hardware.

One more practical note: if you want your picket faces to be flush with the fence line, think through post size and hinge setback. On 6x6 posts, setting the hinges to preserve that flush line reduces how far the gate opens. For me, that tradeoff was worth it.

Performance and adjustability

The truss cable is the hero here. It’s easy to tension, lets you fine-tune the frame square, and—most importantly—keeps the gate from sagging as you start hanging face boards. I rechecked tension after a couple of weeks as the wood settled and again after a season change. Minor touch-ups were all it needed.

At the widest end of its range (approaching 60 inches), the telescoping bars naturally have less overlap. It still works, but if you can set your posts so each leaf lands a few inches shy of the maximum, the finished gate feels more solid. On my drive gate pair, I spaced posts to keep each leaf around 54 inches, which struck a nice balance of width and rigidity.

Swing is smooth and quiet once the pins are greased and set. The powder coat has not chipped or rusted in my installs, and the frame has stayed straight despite heavy use and weather.

Latch and hardware

The included two-way latch is serviceable and installs easily. On the pedestrian gate, it’s been fine. For the wider drive opening, I opted for a beefier latch system and a drop rod for the inactive leaf—more about gate mass and wind exposure than any shortcoming in the stock latch. If you anticipate a lot of push/pull abuse, a heavier latch is a smart upgrade.

As for the screws, I’m not precious about them. They’ll do the job if you predrill and use a fresh driver bit, but I prefer swapping to exterior-grade Robertson or Torx screws to avoid cam-out and to get higher shear strength on critical connections.

Skinning and fence compatibility

I faced one gate with vertical cedar pickets and the other with horizontal boards. The steel frame handles either approach well, but note the space between the hinge line and the inner edge of the steel frame: if you’re using vertical boards, the picket nearest the hinge can end up with limited bite on the cross members. A slightly wider first board—or ripping a custom width—solves this and yields cleaner sightlines.

Because the kit provides the structure, you can make the finished gate match almost any wood or composite style: privacy, board-on-board, horizontal slats, or good-neighbor designs. Just watch overall weight. The frame will carry a surprisingly heavy skin, but proper posts (I recommend 6x6 set deep, properly anchored) and high-quality hinge fasteners make all the difference.

Durability and maintenance

After months outside, both gates are still square and swinging smoothly. I’ve re-tensioned the truss cable once on each and checked hinge fasteners seasonally. Powder coat is intact; no bleaching or surface rust. As with any gate, ground heave and post movement are your real enemies. Build a stout foundation and this frame won’t be the weak link.

What I’d change

• Hinge hardware options. I’d like the ability to choose pin orientation out of the box for true lift-off removal.
• Fastener quality. Include structural-grade screws and Torx/Robertson heads, at least for hinges. Many users will replace them anyway.
• Instructions. They get you there, but a few clearer diagrams for hinge setbacks on different post sizes would help first-time installers.

None of these are deal breakers; they’re quality-of-life improvements for a kit that already does the fundamentals well.

Who it’s for

• DIYers who want a straight, non-sagging gate without welding or custom fabrication
• Pros who need an on-site adjustable solution that can be skinned to match diverse fence styles
• Anyone building a double gate—two kits make it straightforward—provided you plan post spacing and add a drop rod and sturdier latch if needed

If you’re at the absolute maximum width or hanging unusually heavy cladding, give yourself margin on post spacing and upgrade the hinge fasteners.

Recommendation

I recommend the Adjust-A-Gate kit. It’s a strong, adjustable steel frame that solves the two biggest gate problems—sag and sizing—without fuss. Installation is approachable for a solo builder, the truss cable keeps the panel square over time, and the powder-coat finish has held up to weather. Plan your hinge orientation, consider better fasteners for the posts, and leave a bit of width margin if you can. Do that, and you’ll end up with a gate that looks right, swings cleanly, and stays where you put it.