Grasscape 2 Pack 583719501 194231X460 Front Lawn Mower Wheels Compatible for Craftsman Lawn Mower Parts Husqvarna & HU Front Wheel Drive Self Propelled Lawn Mower

Why I Replaced My Front Wheels

After a few seasons, the front drive on my self-propelled Craftsman started slipping on the slightest slope. The culprit wasn’t the transmission—it was the front wheels. The rubber was bald, the internal gear teeth were rounded off, and the mower was basically pushing itself along on slick plastic. I swapped them out with a pair of Grasscape front wheels, and the difference was immediate: traction returned, the self-propel worked like it should, and the mower tracked straighter with less chatter.

If your mower uses 8-inch front drive wheels and you’ve noticed similar symptoms—skipping, poor pull, or wobble—these are a practical, no-drama fix.

Build and Design

These Grasscape front wheels stick closely to the common spec for many front-drive walk-behind mowers:

• Diameter: 8 inches
• Width: 1-3/4 inches
• Bore: 1/2 inch
• Hub length: 1-5/8 inches
• Internal gear ring: 53 teeth

The tire itself is a dense rubber bonded to a high-density plastic core. The rubber compound isn’t squishy (don’t expect pneumatic-like cushioning), but it’s grippy and firm enough to resist chunking when you turn on rough turf or gravel transitions. The plastic hub looks and feels comparable to OEM parts I’ve used from Craftsman and Husqvarna—no flashing or molding defects on my set, and both wheels were round and true out of the box.

The gear ring meshes cleanly with the front-drive pinion. That 53-tooth count is important; matching the tooth count and hub length to your mower ensures the transmission engages properly and the height adjuster geometry stays correct.

Installation Experience

Swapping these in took me about ten minutes, including a quick cleanup of the drive area. If you’re moderately handy, this is a simple DIY job. Here’s what worked for me:

1. Disconnect the spark plug for safety and tip the mower back slightly so the front wheels are easy to access.
2. Pop off any hub caps or dust covers.
3. Remove the axle bolt and washer (on mine, a 1/2-inch socket did it; some are metric).
4. Slide the old wheel off, keeping track of any spacers, dust shields, or washers.
5. Clean the pinion gear and surrounding area—grass and grit here will eat new wheels. I used a stiff brush and a rag.
6. Lightly grease the pinion gear and the wheel’s internal gear ring. A dab of general-purpose grease reduces wear and noise.
7. Slide the new wheel on, making sure the internal teeth align with the pinion gear.
8. Reinstall the washer and bolt, snug but not over-tight. Over-tightening can cause binding.
9. Spin the wheel by hand; it should turn smoothly with a slight ratcheting feel from the gear engagement.

Right away, the new wheels sat square with zero wobble, which eliminated the slightly uneven cut I’d been seeing on the front-left side.

Fit and Compatibility Notes

These wheels are designed to fit a long list of front-drive models from Craftsman, Husqvarna, Poulan/Poulan Pro, and related brands. The OEM replacement references include 583719501, 532402657, 194231X460, 532402567, 401274X460, 194231X427, and 532403111. If your old wheel matches any of those numbers—or your mower’s parts diagram calls for them—you should be in good shape.

A few practical checks before you order:

• Measure your old wheel’s diameter (8 inches) and hub length (1-5/8 inches).
• Confirm the bore is 1/2 inch.
• Verify you need a 53-tooth internal gear ring. You don’t need to count all the teeth if you’re using the OEM part number, but don’t mix a mismatched wheel—it won’t drive correctly.
• These are front-drive wheels. They won’t replace rear-drive or larger rear wheels.

On my Craftsman (917-series), the fit was exact and the height adjusters lined up perfectly at the same notches as before.

Performance on the Lawn

I tested the new wheels over two weeks on mixed turf: flat sections, a modest slope, and a few damp morning cuts. A few observations:

• Traction: The fresh rubber tread restored grip. The mower pulled up the slope without the stuttering I’d been living with.
• Self-propel response: Engagement felt immediate again. Previously, the worn internal gear would slip under load; with the new ring, drive feels consistent.
• Turning and maneuvering: The tread pattern doesn’t fight the turf during pivots, and the mower tracks straighter. I didn’t experience scuffing on healthy grass, though tight turns on wet turf will always mark slightly with FWD mowers.
• Noise: With fresh grease on the pinion, the drive is quieter than it’s been in a while. No squeaks or grinding from the hubs.

If you mow wet or on coarse terrain, the improvement is especially noticeable. Front-wheel drive has its limits on steep hills, but these wheels get you back to what the system is designed to do.

Durability and Early Wear

I’ve put several cuts on these across about half an acre, including along a gravel drive. So far, the rubber shows minimal scuffing and the gear teeth remain crisp. High-density plastic hubs can squeak if you run them dry, so keep a light layer of grease where the pinion and gear meet. It pays to clean out debris after mulching thick, wet grass; caked clippings accelerate wear.

Time will tell how the rubber compound holds up through a full season, but based on the construction and feel, I’d expect service life that’s comparable to OEM wheels. The manufacturer backs them with a one-year warranty, which is reassuring for a consumable part.

Small Quibbles

No replacement hardware is included. That’s typical for mower wheels, but if your axle bolts, washers, or dust covers are beat up, plan to reuse them or order spares. I also wouldn’t mind a slightly softer rubber for a touch more cushioning over bumps, though the firmer compound likely helps with longevity. Finally, like most front-drive wheels with integrated gears, these don’t have a left/right orientation—but make sure your tread direction matches visually if your originals were directional.

Maintenance Tips to Extend Life

• Clean the pinion gear and surrounding cavity every few mows, especially after wet cuts.
• Apply a small amount of grease to the pinion and internal gear; don’t overdo it—grease attracts grit.
• Check the drive cable tension. A poorly adjusted cable can mimic wheel issues and shorten the life of the gear teeth.
• Inspect wheel bolts for proper torque. Too loose causes wobble; too tight can bind the hub.

These small habits will get you more seasons out of any set of drive wheels.

Value and What You Get

The two-pack format is exactly what most DIYers need; you’ll want to replace both fronts at the same time for balanced height and even pull. Compared with buying OEM, these deliver the essentials—proper dimensions, a compatible gear count, durable tread—at a sensible price. There’s no fluff here, just parts that fit and work as intended.

Who They’re Best For

• Owners of front-wheel-drive Craftsman, Husqvarna, Poulan, and similar 8-inch-wheel mowers whose self-propel has lost traction or skips under load.
• DIYers who want a quick, low-cost refresh with basic tools.
• Anyone preparing an older mower for another season without investing in a transmission repair.

If your mower uses 9-inch or rear-drive wheels, or if your hub/bore specs differ, look elsewhere—the dimensions are not universal.

Recommendation

I recommend the Grasscape front wheels. They fit to spec, install easily, and restore traction and self-propel performance without drama. The combination of a durable plastic hub, firm rubber tread, correct 53-tooth gear ring, and standard dimensions makes them a straightforward replacement for common front-drive models. Add the two-pack value and a one-year warranty, and you have a practical fix that brings an aging mower back to working order with minimal time and cost.