National Hardware N102-145 30 Safety Hasps in Zinc, 2-1/2"

Why I reached for this small zinc hasp

I don’t always need a heavy-duty, high-security latch. Sometimes I just need a compact hardware solution that keeps an outdoor storage bin from being rifled through, or a shop cabinet from popping open. That’s the niche this 2-1/2-inch zinc hasp fits: light to medium-duty security in a compact footprint, with a few thoughtful touches that make it more tamper-resistant than the no-name hasps you’ll find in bargain bins.

Over the past few months, I installed this hasp on a small outdoor storage cabinet and on a battered utility box that lives in the bed of my truck. Both installs gave me a good look at how it’s built, how it handles alignment, and how it holds up outside.

Build and design

The hasp is made from hot-rolled steel with a zinc-plated finish, and it uses a ribbed profile to add stiffness without bulking up the overall size. In hand, it’s light but not toy-like. The ribbing matters: thin flat hasps of this size can flex or “oil can” under leverage, but the ribbed stamping noticeably reduces that.

The hardware includes a rigid, non-swivel staple—the loop the padlock passes through—which is the right choice for a compact hasp like this. A swivel staple can help with alignment on larger gates, but on small doors and lids it introduces slop that translates into rattling and uneven wear. With the fixed staple, closure feels consistent every time.

One of the best design features is the concealed fasteners. Once closed, the body covers the mounting screws, so there’s nothing obvious to back out with a driver. It’s not high-security by itself, but it increases the time and effort required for casual tampering and keeps the installation tidy.

Edges are reasonably smooth, the hinge is free of burrs, and the plating is even. Nothing about the part reads “premium,” but it’s clean and consistent.

Installation notes

At 2-1/2 inches, space is tight, so alignment matters. The hinge throw and staple depth leave a slim tolerance for misplacement. Here’s what worked for me:

• Dry fit: I taped the hasp leaf in place first, then swung the loop into position and marked the staple base.
• Pilot holes: I pre-drilled pilot holes sized for my fasteners (wood screws on the cabinet, machine screws with locknuts on the metal box). This reduces the chance of splitting, stripping, or skewing the plate during tightening.
• Substrate matters: On thin sheet metal, I prefer bolting through with washers rather than relying on self-tapping screws. The hasp hides the heads either way, but through-bolting resists prying better.
• Clearance check: Before tightening fully, I tested closure with the intended padlock to make sure the shackle could swing in cleanly without binding.

Because the staple doesn’t swivel, you can’t “fudge” the alignment at the end; you need the leaf and the staple to land square. Take the extra minute to mark carefully and you won’t have to elongate holes later.

Day-to-day use

On both installs, the action is smooth. The hinge has a touch of play—typical for stamped hasps—but not enough to rattle. Once closed, there’s minimal wiggle, helped by that ribbed profile keeping the leaf from flexing. The staple opening suits small to mid-size padlocks. If you like oversized shackles, you’ll want a larger hasp.

The concealed screws are genuinely useful in practice. Not only do they add a bit of tamper resistance, they keep the exterior face clean, which matters on small cabinetry where protruding screw heads can catch or scratch.

Security and limitations

Let’s set expectations. This is not a hasp for a perimeter gate or a high-value shed. The steel is relatively thin (as you’d expect at this size), and while the ribbing stiffens it, a determined attacker with tools will have options. That said, for deterring casual access—kids, opportunists, neighborhood curiosity—it does the job. The concealed screws slow down quick removal, and the fixed staple resists the kind of twisting that can pop a loose hasp.

If you need more security:
- Step up in size and thickness.
- Consider a hasp with a shrouded staple to protect the padlock shackle.
- Use through-bolting with backing plates on thin metal surfaces.

Weather resistance

Zinc plating is the workhorse finish for general outdoor use. It handles splash and humidity well, and it buys you a long time before red rust shows up. On my outdoor cabinet, the hasp has seen rain and indirect sun; after months, it shows only the faint dulling that zinc develops as it oxidizes, with no corrosion at the hinge. On the truck box—more exposure, more grit—I wipe it down occasionally and hit the hinge with a drop of light oil every few weeks. If you’re near salt spray or planning for long-term, no-maintenance outdoor use, stainless hardware or a heavier-coated hasp would be a better choice. For typical yard and shop environments, the zinc finish is adequate.

Fit and compatibility

Some practical notes from use:
- Padlock size: Standard small and medium padlocks fit fine. Oversized shackles or very short shackles can be awkward on such a compact staple, so test your lock before finalizing placement.
- Swing clearance: The short leaf means the hinge arc is tight. Make sure there’s a flat landing zone without trim, bead, or gasket interference right where the leaf closes.
- Surface flatness: Because the staple doesn’t float, slight misalignment or warped surfaces can telegraph into stiff closure. On rough or uneven wood, a thin shim under the staple can square things up.

Where it shines

I like this hasp for:
- Shop cabinets and utility closets
- Small outdoor storage bins and sheds with thin skins
- Truck or trailer boxes where space is limited
- Tool chests, trunks, and cases that need a low-profile closure

The 2-1/2-inch length keeps it unobtrusive. It doesn’t look out of place on small doors, and it won’t snag on passing sleeves or straps.

What could be better

• Gauge and stiffness: The ribbing helps, but the leaf can still flex under strong prying. For a “security” accessory, a thicker gauge option in the same footprint would be welcome.
• Non-swivel staple tolerance: The fixed loop is the right call for rigidity, but the margin for misalignment is small. A slightly longer leaf or a micro amount of float in the loop base would make installs more forgiving without introducing rattle.
• Corrosion options: A stainless version at this size would be great for marine or winter-road environments.

None of these are deal-breakers; they’re just the trade-offs inherent to a compact, budget-friendly hasp.

Tips for getting the most out of it

• Use the right fasteners for your material. Through-bolt metal when you can; use longer wood screws in solid lumber.
• Seal the pilot holes on exterior wood with a dab of exterior-grade sealant to reduce moisture ingress.
• Test with your padlock before tightening everything down. A dry run saves rework.
• A quick coat of clear lacquer or a wax-based protectant can stretch the zinc finish’s life in harsh settings.
• Lube the hinge pin lightly a couple of times a year if it lives outdoors.

Recommendation

I recommend this hasp for light to medium-duty applications where space is tight and you want a clean, tamper-resistant installation. It’s easy to mount if you plan your layout, the concealed screws add a meaningful layer of deterrence, and the zinc finish holds up well in typical outdoor and shop environments. It’s not a solution for serious security or high-abuse gates, and you’ll want to pair it with sensible fasteners and a properly sized padlock. For cabinets, small boxes, and everyday storage, it’s a simple, reliable piece of hardware that does exactly what it should without getting in the way.