DeWalt Forced Air Electric Construction Heater (13/20 kW)

Why I reached for an electric jobsite heater

Some jobsites and shops just don’t suit combustion heat. Between ventilation hassles, fuel storage, and carbon monoxide risk, there are plenty of times when clean electric heat is the practical choice. That’s where this DeWalt electric jobsite heater fits for me: a portable, single-appliance solution that can quietly and reliably keep an enclosed space comfortable without tailpipes or fumes.

Setup and power: know your circuit

Before anything else, plan your power. At full output, this heater is a 20,000-watt load at 240 volts, which translates to roughly 50 amps. The unit also offers a lower 13 kW setting around 33 amps. The manufacturer guidance points to a 60A breaker for 20 kW and 40A for 13 kW. That tracks with the draw plus overhead, but there’s some documentation confusion out there around single-phase vs. three-phase and breaker pole count. In the field, I ran it on 240V single-phase, which is the likely scenario for most shops and temporary power panels. If you’re in a 208V environment (common in some commercial buildings), expect a noticeable reduction in heat output—electric heat is directly tied to voltage.

Actionable takeaway:
- Plan for a dedicated 240V circuit sized to the mode you’ll use most (60A for full-time high, 40A if you’ll stick to low).
- Confirm your site voltage; 208V will soften the heater’s punch.
- If you need a plug or hardwire whip, have an electrician set it up to code.

The heater itself is straightforward to move and position. At 48 pounds with a wheel kit and an oversized handle, it’s not featherweight, but it’s balanced and stable. The coil support design does seem to reduce transport rattle, which is a small but welcome quality-of-life detail when you’re rolling it in and out of a truck or across rough slab.

Heat output and real-world performance

Two-stage operation matters in practice. I found the 13 kW mode useful for maintaining temperature or working in smaller rooms without overshooting. Flip it to 20 kW when you need to raise the temp or fight heat loss through doors and drafts. The published outputs—about 44,000 and 68,000 BTU/hr—won’t compete with a big 150,000–200,000 BTU gas unit for recovery time, but they’re effective for steady, clean warmth in enclosed spaces with reasonable insulation.

In an insulated shop, I used high to pull the space up to working temperature and then settled into low for the rest of the day. The 600 CFM fan pushes a consistent, even stream that mixes the air well. Placed in a corner and angled slightly upward, it avoided creating hot spots near the unit while keeping the far end of the room comfortable. When bay doors open, expect a slower rebound than a high-output fuel-fired heater; this is a maintenance heat machine first, and a recovery sledgehammer second.

The thermostat is basic but practical, with a broad setpoint range from 25°F to 95°F. That low end makes this a solid fit for frost protection in mechanical rooms or during overnight protection of materials. Thermostat accuracy felt acceptable—not surgical, but predictable. Once I learned where I liked it for jacket-off comfort, it landed within a couple of degrees of that target and cycled sensibly.

Controls, usability, and the little things

The control layout is simple: a heat stage selector, the thermostat knob, and a fan-only option. Recessed controls are a smart touch; switches sit protected from scuffs and accidental bumps in a crowded workspace. The fan-only setting is surprisingly handy for shoulder seasons and for air movement when drying mud or paint without adding heat. I appreciate that I can leave it circulating air during breaks without burning watts on the coils.

One quibble: the fan selector has that familiar “click” feel of a commodity switch. It’s not a deal-breaker, but given the current this unit handles and the environments it lives in, I’d love to see a more substantial control in future revisions. The rest of the build is what I expect from a jobsite tool—sturdy shell, stable stance, and clean edges where you’re likely to grab it.

Noise-wise, it’s very jobsite appropriate. You’ll hear airflow, but it doesn’t drone or whine, and conversation at normal volume is fine a few feet away. The fan tone is steady and unobtrusive.

Safety and unattended use

One of the big advantages of electric heat is what’s missing: open flames and exhaust gases. This unit is certified for unattended jobsite heating, which I find genuinely useful for preheating a space before crews arrive or keeping a shop above freezing overnight. That said, unattended doesn’t mean unconsidered—respect clearances, keep combustibles back, and make sure the electrical work is right. The lack of CO and moisture byproducts is a real benefit for finish work and enclosed interiors.

Energy costs and practical economics

There’s no getting around the math: 20 kW is a big electrical load. At typical utility rates:
- At $0.12/kWh, 20 kW costs about $2.40 per hour; 13 kW is about $1.56 per hour.
- At $0.20/kWh, you’re looking at roughly $4.00/hr and $2.60/hr respectively.

Depending on your fuel prices and site logistics, electric can be more expensive than propane or natural gas for equivalent BTUs. But if you value clean air, quiet operation, and minimal setup (no tanks, venting, or fuel deliveries), the trade-off can make sense—especially for intermittent use or spaces where combustion heat is a non-starter.

What it does best

• Clean, safe heat for enclosed shops, interiors, and finish spaces
• Steady temperature maintenance with two-stage flexibility
• Simple, durable form factor that rolls where you need it
• Fan-only air circulation for shoulder seasons and drying tasks
• Set-and-forget operation with a wide thermostat range and unattended certification

Where it falls short

• Raw output won’t match high-BTU gas/diesel heaters for rapid recovery, especially after big door cycles
• Performance tapers on 208V circuits; verify your site voltage
• Electrical documentation around phase/breaker poles could be clearer, and installation expectations (plug vs. hardwire) might confuse first-time users
• The fan switch feels on the lighter side compared to the rest of the build

Wish list for the next version

• A beefier, industrial-grade selector switch and a digital thermostat with a clear temperature readout
• Clear, unified electrical guidance: single-phase 240V specs front and center, with explicit 208V output notes
• Optional pre-wired cord set or plug kit for common 240V configurations, where code allows

The bottom line

As a portable, clean heat source for enclosed jobsites and shops with available 240V power, the DeWalt electric jobsite heater earns a spot in my kit. It’s easy to live with, predictable in how it heats, and flexible enough with two stages and fan-only to handle more than just mid-winter days. You won’t use it to slam a frigid, leaky warehouse back to comfort in ten minutes, and you do need to respect the electrical requirements. But for steady, safe, unattended-friendly warmth without the headaches of combustion heat, it performs just as it should.

Recommendation: I recommend this heater to contractors and shop owners who have access to a 240V circuit and want reliable, fume-free heat with minimal oversight. It’s especially compelling for finish work, overnight freeze protection, and small-to-medium enclosed spaces. If your priority is fastest possible recovery in large, drafty areas—or your power situation can’t support a 40–60A 240V circuit—look to a higher-BTU fuel-fired heater instead.