Diylog PVC Pipe Reamer, PVC Fitting Saver, 9Pcs Pipe Reamer for SCH40, Includes 1/2 inch, 3/4 inch, 1 inch, 1-1/4inch, 1-1/2inch, 2inch, 2-1/2inch, 3inch, 4inch Head Aluminum with 2 Blades

Why I reached for this kit

A glued-in PVC stub trapped in a 1-1/2 inch union is the kind of small problem that can turn into a big, messy replacement if you don’t have the right tool. I put the Diylog reamer kit to work on a couple of those “do I replace this whole run or save the fitting?” decisions—across irrigation repairs, a pool equipment reroute, and a bathroom rough-in—and it’s proven to be a practical way to salvage fittings and valves without cutting out half the system.

What’s in the kit

• Nine aluminum cutter heads sized for common SCH40 fittings: 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1-1/4, 1-1/2, 2, 2-1/2, 3, and 4 inch
• A 3/8-inch hex spindle that fits standard 1/2-inch drill chucks
• Rotatable four-sided carbide inserts on each head
• Two spare carbide blades

The sizing coverage is the standout: having 2-1/2 and 3 inch in the same box matters if you work on older irrigation manifolds or pool pads where those sizes still pop up.

Build and design

The cutter heads are machined aluminum with a single square carbide insert each. The inserts are the right choice here: they shrug off solvent cement and hardened PVC crust that will quickly dull high-speed steel. Being four-sided, each insert can be rotated three times before you need to swap it, which extends their useful life.

The 3/8-inch hex spindle locks into the heads cleanly and runs true in a decent drill. I didn’t see any annoying wobble that would make centering difficult. The overall feel is professional enough without being fussy—nothing loose, nothing overbuilt.

A quick note on fit: the heads registered accurately in every Schedule 40 fitting I tested (PVC, ABS, and CPVC). They do not belong in Schedule 80; the wall thickness and material density change the cut dynamics and dramatically increase heat and grabbing risk.

Setup and technique

If you can drive a hole saw, you can run this tool, but it rewards patience and a few good habits:

• Use a drill with a low gear and a side handle. Big diameters (2 inches and up) put real torque on your wrist.
• Mark a depth line on the head with a Sharpie to match the socket depth of the fitting you’re salvaging. This helps you avoid cutting into the fitting itself.
• Keep the drill square to the fitting. Start in the center and let the cutter self-stabilize as it begins to bite.
• Run at low speed and use light pressure. Heat is the enemy—if you see the plastic smearing or smell it, back out and let it cool. A splash of water keeps chips moving and temperatures down.
• Vacuum as you go. Chips accumulate inside deep sockets and can bind the cutter; a quick pull with a shop vac clears the path.

The learning curve is short, but the smaller sizes (1/2 and 3/4 inch) are less forgiving of misalignment. The larger heads want more drill and more control—no surprises there.

Performance in the field

On SCH40 PVC, the kit makes short, clean work of solvent-welded stubs. My benchmark repair—a 1-1/2 inch union on an irrigation manifold—took under two minutes from engagement to a clean socket, including one cooling break. The reamer leaves a smooth, matte surface that accepts primer and cement as if it were new. I scuff with 180-grit as a matter of habit before re-gluing, but the finish was already good.

On ABS, cuts were even easier and cooler. CPVC (hot water lines) ran fine too, though it benefitted most from intermittent cooling since it softens faster under friction.

What I appreciated:

• Centering was predictable. Once the cutter started, it stayed on-axis without hunting.
• The heads were true to size. I never got an undersized result that risked a loose fit.
• Solvent cement and embedded chips didn’t blunt the edge quickly. After several fittings across three sizes, I didn’t need to rotate an insert.

What to watch:

• The 4-inch head is no joke. Use a high-torque drill with a secondary handle and clamp the work if you can.
• Don’t chase the last fraction of a millimeter. If you’ve hit your depth mark and the wall is thin, stop—over-reaming will nick the fitting.

Durability and maintenance

Carbide inserts are the durability story here. I ran multiple fittings per size without seeing meaningful dulling, and the ability to rotate edges extends the life significantly. Aluminum heads don’t corrode, clean easily, and aren’t heavy, which matters when you’re holding a drill at shoulder height.

Maintenance is straightforward:

• Brush and wipe chips from the head and insert pocket.
• If you’ve been using water for cooling, dry off the spindle and head to avoid trapped moisture.
• Rotate the insert when the cut feels burnished rather than shearing.
• Keep the spindle’s hex clean so it seats fully in your drill.

The two spare inserts are a thoughtful inclusion, though you’ll go a while before needing them if you rotate edges intelligently.

Where it shines

• Salvaging glued fittings in tight manifolds where cutting and replacing isn’t practical
• Reusing expensive valves and unions, especially on pool pads and spa equipment
• Remodels where you want to avoid opening walls or reworking structural penetrations
• Irrigation repairs where spacing errors leave no room for couplers

The nine-size coverage means I didn’t hit a “wish I had that head” moment. Being able to jump from 1 inch to 3 inches without a tool change mid-day is a quiet kind of efficiency.

Limitations and caveats

• Not for Schedule 80. The kit explicitly excludes it, and for good reason. The tool geometry and heat load don’t suit thick-wall fittings.
• Drill choice matters. Underpowered drills stall on the larger heads and encourage you to lean on the tool, which creates heat and chatter.
• Technique is key on the small sizes. A slight tilt can gouge the fitting socket, especially at 1/2 inch.
• It doesn’t fix sloppy original work. If the fitting is warped, cracked, or already over-reamed, this tool can’t restore it to spec.
• Chip management is part of the job. Plan for debris; protect pumps and equipment if you’re working in place.

Value and alternatives

There are long-established reamers in the plumbing trade that do the same job, sometimes at notably higher prices and sometimes with a narrower size range. The Diylog reamer kit hits a smart balance: full coverage from 1/2 to 4 inches, carbide inserts you can rotate, a standard hex spindle, and a couple of spare blades. If you only ever work in a single size, a single-head pro tool might be marginally faster to set up. For anyone who sees variety—residential remodelers, irrigation techs, pool pros—this kit’s versatility is the value.

Practical tips from use

• Tape a depth stop on the head to match socket depth; it’s a simple safeguard.
• Prime the cleaned socket lightly before reassembly; a quick scuff improves bonding.
• Keep a squeeze bottle of water handy for cooling, especially on CPVC and larger diameters.
• Clamp valves or unions when possible; it steadies the work and keeps your wrists intact.

Final recommendation

I recommend the Diylog reamer kit. It earned a spot in my plumbing and irrigation bin by doing exactly what it promises: it cleanly removes stubs and cement from SCH40 PVC, CPVC, and ABS fittings, preserves components that would otherwise be scrapped, and does so with predictable control. The nine-head spread means you’re covered for almost any residential or light commercial fitting you’ll encounter, and the carbide inserts hold up well with basic care. It’s not a magic wand—you need a low-speed, high-torque drill and a light touch—but once you respect the technique and keep it cool, it saves time, materials, and the headache of unnecessary tear-outs. If you regularly repair glued fittings and value reuse over replacement, this kit is a smart, cost-effective addition to your setup.