UYODM 3 in 1 Light Socket Outlet Adapter, Support 3 Prong Light Bulb Socket, E26/E27 Light Socket to Plug Adapter with Extension Cord for Garage, Porch, Patio, CCTV Camera

What this adapter is and why I tried it

I’m often stuck needing a quick, safe way to power a small device right where there’s only a light socket—think garage ceiling, porch light box, attic lampholder, or a patio fixture. The UYODM light‑socket adapter promises a neat fix: screw it into a standard E26/E27 socket and you get a three‑prong AC outlet plus a pass‑through bulb socket, all on a short, flexible pigtail. That’s exactly the sort of “make it work now” tool I like to keep in a kit.

I used it to power a low‑wattage security camera on a front porch, a short run of string lights in the yard (under cover), and a compact battery charger in the garage, while still keeping a light bulb installed and controlled by the existing switch.

Setup and build quality

Installation is straightforward, but there are a few best practices that matter:

• Turn off the switch (or breaker) first. Treat it like any fixture work.
• Screw the adapter into the socket by holding the body—not the cable and not a bulb. The pigtail gives you leverage, but it’s also a point of stress if you twist against it.
• Once the adapter is seated, install the light bulb into the pass‑through socket. Hand‑tighten gently; there’s no need to torque it down.
• Plug your device into the three‑prong outlet and secure any slack so it doesn’t tug on the adapter.

The PVC housing is V0 flame‑retardant and rated to 105°C. That’s a plus for heat resistance, but the assembly overall is still a lightweight plastic body with metal threads. It’s fine for what it is: a temporary convenience adapter. The 7‑inch extension is genuinely useful; it lets the outlet rest at a more natural angle and reduces strain on cords. In a tight globe or recessed lampholder, though, the side‑exit cable can get in the way while you’re threading it in—worth knowing if your socket is deeply shrouded.

One note on fit: on a couple of enclosed fixtures with tall insulating skirts, the adapter’s threaded section felt a bit short. It still made contact, but it’s better suited to open or lightly shrouded sockets (porcelain keyless lampholders, porch lights with space, pendant housings, etc.).

Electrical performance and limitations

The adapter is rated for a combined maximum of 800 watts. At 120 volts, that’s roughly 6.5 amps total across the outlet and the bulb together. In practice, this is plenty for:

• LED bulbs (8–15 W)
• Security camera power supplies (typically 5–15 W)
• Wi‑Fi extenders, small chargers, or decorative string lights
• Light‑duty fans or small electronics

It is not for high‑draw appliances. Avoid heaters, shop‑vacs, compressors, big halogen work lights, or anything with a heavy motor or heating element. Also remember to count the bulb’s wattage in your total. I ran a 9 W LED bulb along with a 12 W camera PSU and had no issues.

The outlet accepts both polarized 2‑prong and 3‑prong plugs. Treat the setup as a convenience outlet, not a replacement for a properly grounded receptacle. Many light fixtures don’t provide a reliable equipment ground through the socket. If your load requires a safety ground, use a properly wired outlet on a grounded circuit. There’s also no GFCI or surge protection onboard; if you need either, use an appropriate adapter or choose a different solution.

In use: day‑to‑day practicality

The biggest win is control. Because the adapter rides on the light circuit, you can power your device from a switched source. For my camera, that meant I could toggle power from the same porch switch during setup. For string lights, I piggybacked off a switched lampholder so everything came on together.

The second win is space. In the garage, I don’t have a handy outlet near the ceiling bulb. With this, I plugged a compact charger above the bench and kept the ceiling light as‑is. The pigtail lowers the effective bulb position by an inch or two; in one fixture that actually improved spread and reduced a shadow on the wall.

Heat was a non‑issue with LED bulbs. I would avoid pairing the adapter with high‑wattage incandescents or enclosed fixtures that run hot; you’ll eat into the thermal margin quickly. The 105°C rating is reassuring, but good practice is to minimize heat whenever add‑on plastics are in a fixture.

Ergonomics and cable orientation

The side‑exit cable makes sense once installed, and it’s the reason the outlet is usable in more angles than rigid adapters. During installation, though, it can snag on trim or a globe if the fixture is tight. My workaround:

• Start threading by holding the adapter body close to the threads, not the cable.
• Once you feel the threads catch, support the cable so it doesn’t twist around the body.
• If the fixture is very shallow or recessed, consider removing the globe to give yourself a straight shot.

Once seated, the outlet faces outward instead of down, which makes it easier to plug in wall‑warts. The grip is firm and I didn’t have issues with devices sagging or loosening.

Safety notes

A few things I kept front and center:

• Load rating: stay under 800 W combined. Account for inrush on anything with a motor.
• Location: dry, indoor or covered‑outdoor areas only. This is not weatherproof or humidity‑rated.
• Grounding: do not assume the 3rd prong provides an equipment ground. Use only with devices that do not rely on a ground, unless you’ve verified your fixture’s grounding pathway.
• Heat: prefer LED bulbs; avoid enclosed, high‑heat fixtures.
• Duration: treat it as a temporary or semi‑permanent convenience. For permanent power, install a proper receptacle.

Follow those, and this adapter is a sensible, safe helper.

What I liked

• True 3‑in‑1 function: E26/E27 pass‑through bulb socket plus a 3‑prong outlet
• Short pigtail that improves plug clearance and reduces strain
• Simple, plug‑and‑play setup—no wiring, no tools
• V0 flame‑retardant housing and a sensible 800 W cap for light‑duty use
• Makes old “light‑only” locations more useful without an electrician

What could be better

• The threaded base could be longer for deep, skirted lampholders
• The side‑exit cable can interfere with installation in tight globes
• The plastic socket assembly doesn’t appreciate over‑tightening—hand‑tight only
• No weatherproofing or GFCI (expected at this price/format, but worth calling out)

Use cases where it shines

• Powering a porch or garage camera while keeping the light functional
• Adding switched power for holiday string lights or patio accents (in dry, covered areas)
• Plugging in a Wi‑Fi extender, smart bridge, or small charger near a ceiling light
• Temporary jobsite lighting where you need a light and a small accessory powered from the same point

The bottom line

The UYODM light‑socket adapter earns a spot in my kit for those quick wins: it safely turns a standard lampholder into a light‑plus‑outlet without tools, and the short extension makes it more usable than rigid adapters. It’s not a universal fix—you need to respect the 800 W limit, the likely lack of a true equipment ground, and the dry‑location constraint. You also need to handle it gently; over‑tightening either the adapter or the bulb can stress the socket.

If you’re looking to power small electronics where only a light socket exists, and you’re comfortable treating this as a temporary or semi‑permanent convenience, I recommend it. It’s a simple, effective way to add a low‑draw outlet while keeping your light, provided you use it within its limits and in appropriate environments. For anything heavy‑duty, wet, or requiring guaranteed grounding, skip the adapter and install a proper receptacle instead.