MAQIHAN 100PCS Paint Strainers Paper Cone Paint Mixing Cup Strainer Fine Mesh Filters Funnel Filter Disposable Spray Gun Sprayer Accessories Automotive Body Repair Paint Tools & Equipment

A clean spray pattern starts with clean finish. I’ve been using the MAQIHAN paint strainers across a mix of shop tasks—from filtering polyurethane for wood projects to prepping basecoat/clear for an automotive panel—and they’ve earned a permanent spot near my mixing cups. They’re not perfect, but they solve a common problem affordably and with minimal hassle.

What they are and why I reached for them

These are disposable paper cone strainers with a fine nylon mesh at the tip and a wide, roughly 6-inch opening. They’re meant for single use: pour your finish through, catch dust and dried flecks, and toss the cone. I grabbed them initially because I wanted a big pack I wouldn’t have to baby or wash, and I needed a fine screen to keep spray guns from clogging. On both counts, they deliver.

Build quality and fit

The cones are made of thin, lightweight paper bonded to a fine nylon mesh. The paper isn’t reinforced, and you can feel that immediately—this isn’t the heavy cardstock you’ll find on some shop-brand strainers. The upside is that they conform nicely to mixing cup rims and sit naturally in the hand. The downside is that you need to support them properly; if you set one on a cup and walk away while a heavy finish pools, the paper can slump.

The 6-inch opening fits well over quart mixing cups, smaller paint cans, and most disposable automotive mixing cups. I’ve also rested them in a funnel stand without issue. They’re best managed with one hand on the cone and the other on the can—pouring steadily rather than dumping makes a noticeable difference.

Performance across different finishes

• Polyurethane and varnish: This is where these strainers shine. Oil-based poly that’s been opened a few times inevitably gathers fine dust and “boogers” around the threads; the mesh stripped out those contaminants cleanly. Flow was reasonably quick, and the strainer didn’t deform under the weight.

• Waterborne finishes and acrylic craft paints: No trouble. Even slightly thickened water-based polys moved through the mesh at a practical pace. For brushing or HVLP work, the resulting finish laid down more consistently, with fewer tip sputters.

• Automotive basecoat and clear: For base and clear reduced to spec, the mesh was exactly the fineness I want for a 1.3–1.4 mm gun setup. The cones kept nibs out and cut down on tip cleaning during a door repair. I still strain at each mix stage; these made that painless.

• Lacquer and “hot” thinners: Here’s the caveat. With lacquer thinner-heavy mixes (especially aggressive reducers), the adhesive that bonds the nylon mesh to the paper can soften. On one pour I saw the mesh edge lift slightly, which risks bypass. It didn’t dump debris into the cup, but it was a warning. I adjusted by using a gentler reducer and pouring faster with more cone support. If you routinely shoot lacquer cut strong with hot thinner, I’d keep a more solvent-resistant strainer on hand for that specific use.

• House latex: It will strain, but sluggishly if the paint is thick or cool. For wall paints and primers, I prefer a coarser mesh or a basket-style reusable filter. These cones are tuned more for finishing products than gallons of interior latex.

Flow rate vs. filtration

The nylon mesh is genuinely fine. It captures dust, pigment clumps, and dried rim scrapes you didn’t realize were there. You’ll see the payoff in fewer fisheyes, less tip spitting, and reduced orange peel from contaminants. The tradeoff is flow rate—thicker materials need patience. Warming the can slightly (room-temp, not hot) and thinning to manufacturer specs both help. If I’m dealing with an old can or a reclaimed mix, I often do a quick pre-filter through a paint sock and then finish through this cone to keep the flow moving.

Tips that made them work better

• Support the cone: Either hold it or use a funnel stand. Don’t let a full cup sit under a soggy cone for minutes.
• Pour smoothly: A steady stream is better than a dump; it keeps the paper from flexing and the mesh from loading instantly.
• Don’t overfill: Stop and swap if the mesh clogs. They’re single-use; it’s faster to grab a second cone than to fight a slow trickle.
• Watch your solvents: With hotter reducers, pour efficiently and avoid soaking the seam. If you notice the mesh edge lifting, discard and use a more solvent-tolerant strainer for that job.
• Double-cone for dirty material: For reclaimed finishes or shop-mixed cocktails with debris, stacking two cones catches the bulk in the first and keeps the second flowing.
• Keep lint out: If a cone gets saturated and collapses, toss it rather than trying to rescue the pour. That’s when paper fibers are likeliest to enter the finish.

Durability and consistency

They’re designed to be disposable, and the paper thickness reflects that. In normal use with water-based finishes, oils, and properly reduced automotive materials, I didn’t have tearing or seam failures. If I sloshed solvent on the paper or let a thick pour sit and soak, the cone softened. Treat them as single-pass tools and they behave. Try to use one cone for multiple mixes or extended soaking and you’ll eventually run into deformation.

Consistency from cone to cone was good; the mesh alignment and glue line were uniform enough that I didn’t feel like I had to “pick a good one.”

Cleanup and shop workflow

The biggest perk is zero cleanup. I can keep the spray area cleaner by straining each mix and tossing the cone immediately. That alone reduces tip cleaning between coats and keeps me focused on gun setup and surface prep. If you’re used to washing reusable filters, you’ll appreciate how these keep color contamination down when you’re switching between products.

The flip side is waste. If sustainability is central to your workflow, pairing a reusable funnel with a stainless mesh might be a better baseline, reserving these cones for finicky topcoats or on-the-road work.

Value

Buying in bulk keeps the per-piece cost low, and frankly that’s a big part of the appeal. I don’t ration them, so I strain more often—and straining more often yields better finishes with fewer hiccups. Compared to shop-brand cones, these are cheaper and a bit flimsier; that tradeoff makes sense to me for everyday finishing where I’m attentive during the pour.

Where they fall short

• Solvent resistance: Hot lacquer thinners can soften the adhesive at the mesh seam.
• Paper stiffness: The thin paper demands good technique; unsupported or prolonged soaking can cause collapse.
• Heavy materials: Thick latex and high-build primers strain slowly; a coarser filter is a better match.

None of these are deal breakers if you pair them with the right materials and adjust your pour. But if your workflow is dominated by aggressive solvents or heavy-bodied paints, you’ll want different strainers for those tasks.

Who they’re best for

• Woodworkers straining poly, varnish, shellac cuts, and waterborne topcoats.
• Automotive hobbyists and pros straining properly reduced base/clear and single-stage.
• Airbrush users who need a fine screen to keep nozzles happy.
• DIYers doing craft paints and stains who prefer disposable convenience.

Recommendation

I recommend the MAQIHAN paint strainers for everyday finishing with water-based products, oil-based poly/varnish, stains, and properly reduced automotive coatings. They filter finely, fit common mixing cups, and the bulk pack encourages good habits—strain every mix, toss the cone, and keep moving. Use a light touch and steady pour, and you’ll get clean, consistent results without fighting clogged tips.

I wouldn’t lean on them for hot lacquer thinners or heavy latex. If your workflow centers on aggressive solvents, keep a more solvent-proof strainer on hand. Likewise, if you need to strain gallons of house paint, pick a coarser, more rigid filter.

Within their intended lane—fine filtration for finishing materials at a very approachable cost—they’re a practical, time-saving addition to the shop.