National Hardware N335-984 804 Door Security Guards in Nickel

A simple swing bar can change how secure a door feels. I installed the National Hardware door guard on two inswing doors—one exterior and one bedroom—to see how much practical security and convenience a small piece of hardware can add. After several weeks of daily use and a handful of stress tests, here’s how it fared.

Build and finish

This is a die-cast steel swing-bar style guard with a satin nickel finish. Out of the box it feels dense and well-machined, with a smooth, even coating that matches most satin nickel knobs and levers. The pivot action is crisp and rotates a full 180 degrees, and a small detent keeps the bar neatly parked when not in use so it doesn’t flop around. Edges are rounded and comfortable to handle—no sharp corners to snag clothing or hands.

The finish has held up nicely on both an interior door and an exterior door under a covered porch. No scratches, tarnish, or rubbing so far. It’s not stainless, so I wouldn’t expect it to love direct coastal exposure, but for typical interior/exterior use it looks built to last.

Installation experience

Installation is straightforward for anyone with a drill/driver and a tape measure. The kit includes screws and the hole spacing is forgiving as long as you take a minute to mock up the placement. My process:

• Close the door fully and hold the frame plate on flat, solid jamb material (not just on decorative casing). Mark holes.
• Pre-drill pilot holes sized to the screw core to avoid splitting and to make driving easier.
• Fasten the frame plate first, then swing the bar into place and position the door-side catch so the bar sits flat and centered. Mark, pilot, and fasten.

A few practical notes:
- Use a stud finder to confirm you’re anchoring into solid jamb or stud material. Long screws into the framing make a big difference in strength.
- If you have a steel door or metal jamb, swap to the appropriate drill bits and consider self-tapping or thread-cutting screws.
- This style of guard works best where the door face and the adjacent frame surface are roughly flush. If your casing projects significantly beyond the door face, you may need a spacer block, a shallow mortise, or a different style of secondary lock.

The included screws were better than most I see in small hardware packs—heads didn’t cam out when driven with a driver, and the longer frame screws bit securely. If you want to maximize resistance to a kick, upgrading the frame-side screws to 3-inch screws that reach the stud is a smart, inexpensive improvement.

Total install time per door was about ten minutes including measuring and piloting.

Day-to-day use

The bar swings easily with one hand and sits positively in the receiver. In the locked position, the door opens roughly an inch, which is enough to peek, speak through the crack, or accept a very slim envelope without fully opening. The detent at the pivot keeps the bar from drifting while you close the door—small detail, but it makes the action feel tidy.

Mounted high, it’s an effective way to keep curious kids from working a latch they can otherwise reach. Mounted at a conventional height, it’s a nice “night mode” for a bedroom or home office: quiet to engage, easy to disengage, and unobtrusive.

One byproduct you’ll either appreciate or find annoying: if someone tries the door while the bar is engaged, it makes a solid clack as the bar takes load against the receiver and strike. It’s loud enough to alert you from another room—useful as a deterrent and notification.

Security and what to expect

No secondary guard is a substitute for a good deadbolt seated in a reinforced strike plate. This guard’s job is to add friction, buy time, and limit the door opening. On those points, it performs very well for the category.

• Against casual twisting or a tentative push, the door barely budges and the guard holds firm.
• Against a committed shoulder check, the outcome depends on installation quality (screws into solid framing vs. just casing) and the condition of your jamb. Properly anchored, it resists force surprisingly well for its size and will slow entry.
• As with most swing-bar locks, the weakest link under heavy abuse is the die-cast components or the fasteners pulling out of soft material. Don’t expect it to defeat repeated full-power kicks.

Practically, I treat it as a deterrent and delay device. Layered with a quality deadbolt, reinforced strike, and long hinge screws, it rounds out the system nicely.

Compatibility and fit

A few fit considerations before you commit:

• Door swing: It’s for inswing doors. It won’t function on outswing doors because the bar can’t catch the opening edge.
• Trim geometry: Works best on flat jambs where the door face and frame surface are nearly flush. Thick, proud casings can interfere with alignment.
• Door/frame gaps: A typical residential reveal is fine. If your door is significantly misaligned or has a large gap at the latch side, plan your placement carefully to ensure the bar seats cleanly in the receiver.
• Materials: It’s billed for wood or metal doors/frames. For metal, use proper bits and thread-cutting screws. For older, soft wood jambs, pilot generously and consider longer screws.

Durability over time

After regular use—including a couple of intentional “hard tests” to simulate a forced push—the hardware shows no deformation, the pivot remains tight, and the finish looks new. As with most die-cast swing bars, you can shorten its service life by repeatedly slamming or forcing the door against the guard; it’s sturdy but not indestructible. If you anticipate frequent high-load events (e.g., a busy short-term rental with rambunctious guests), inspect the door-side receiver periodically for hairline cracks and keep the screws snug.

A tiny spritz of dry lubricant at the pivot once or twice a year keeps the swing action smooth and quiet.

Aesthetics and footprint

Satin nickel fits in with most contemporary and transitional hardware suites. The footprint is compact and doesn’t overwhelm the trim. On stained wood casings, it reads as a clean accent rather than an industrial bracket. Fingerprints don’t show easily, and the surface wipes clean with a damp cloth.

Tips to get the most from it

• Anchor deep: Replace at least two frame-side screws with 3-inch screws into the stud.
• Pilot smart: Drill pilots matched to the screw core diameter, especially in hardwood jambs, to reduce the chance of stripping.
• Test before you commit: Temporarily tape the parts in position and swing the bar to verify alignment before drilling.
• Mount with intention: High placement keeps it out of reach of kids; lower placement makes it easier for shorter users. Choose based on your household.
• Layer security: Pair with a quality deadbolt and reinforced strike. Consider upgrading hinge screws to long ones as well.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners and renters (with permission) who want a low-profile, inexpensive secondary barrier for an inswing door.
• Parents seeking an out-of-reach restraint to keep toddlers from wandering.
• Light commercial or office users who want a quick “occupied” barrier inside an office door.

Who should consider alternatives:
- Doors with outswing operation, or with very proud casings that prevent proper alignment.
- Situations where code requires single-motion egress and additional interior latches are prohibited. Always verify local code, especially on short-term rentals and multi-family exits.

The bottom line

The National Hardware door guard is a well-made, easy-to-install swing-bar that adds a meaningful layer of security for very little money or effort. The build quality, smooth action, and tidy finish make it pleasant to live with day to day, and when anchored into solid framing it resists a surprising amount of force for its size. It’s not a deadbolt replacement, and like every die-cast swing guard it has limits under repeated heavy abuse, but as a deterrent and delay device it does its job admirably.

Recommendation: I recommend it. If you want an unobtrusive, reliable secondary lock for an inswing door—and your trim geometry allows a clean install—this guard offers strong value. Install it with proper pilot holes and long frame screws, layer it with a good deadbolt and reinforced strike, and you’ll walk away with a noticeable upgrade in both security and peace of mind.