Farm Plastic Supply - Jute Erosion Control Cloth - 4' x 225' - Soil Saver Mesh Blanket, Erosion Control Jute Netting, Jute Netting, Erosion Control, Biodegradable, Erosion Control Blanket

Why I reached for this jute mat

Bare soil on a new slope is a recipe for muddy run‑off and frustration. I’ve tried straw mulch, plastic netting, and even improvised burlap, but on shallow grades and low‑flow swales I keep coming back to a simple, natural solution: jute. This 4' x 225' jute mat from Farm Plastic Supply is the type of roll you buy once and immediately understand—coarse, breathable, and heavy enough to stay put when you staple it correctly. I used it to stabilize a reshaped bank along a driveway and a septic mound after topsoil/seed, and I’ve since used the leftovers to stitch together a few bare patches that kept washing out in spring storms.

What it is and what it isn’t

The mat is an open‑weave netting made from natural jute fiber. It’s not a straw blanket with a stitched backing and it’s not a synthetic mesh that will linger in the soil. Think of it more like a sturdy, flexible scaffold that hugs the ground and gives seeds a chance to root before rain can carry the surface away. Because it’s 100% biodegradable, it will break down over time, leaving grass and other vegetation to take over the job of holding the soil.

This type of jute is meant for temporary erosion control on shallow slopes and low‑flow channels. If you’re dealing with a steep bank, a culvert with frequent surge flow, or a construction site with concentrated water, you’ll want a heavier coir blanket or an engineered product. But for residential contours, berms, septic mounds, light swales, and general seed protection, this jute mat hits the sweet spot between simplicity and effectiveness.

Installation experience

The roll is long and reasonably heavy. I could move it solo but preferred two people for unrolling on a slope to keep it straight and prevent bunching. The mesh wants full contact with the soil, so site prep matters:

• Grade and smooth the soil, removing clods and sticks.
• Broadcast your seed first and, if you use topdressing, keep it thin so the mesh still sits against mineral soil.
• Start at the top of the slope. I cut a shallow trench (a few inches deep) at the crest, laid the mat into it, and backfilled to anchor the upper edge.
• Unroll downslope, keeping the mesh taut and in contact. On overlaps, I used 6–12 inches and staggered seams where I could.
• Staples are non‑negotiable. I used 6" landscape staples every 1–2 feet along edges and seams, and 2–3 feet on center elsewhere. In windy spots or on curved slopes, I tightened that spacing.

The mesh is forgiving around curves and rocks, and it shapes well into shallow channels. It cuts cleanly with a utility knife. If you try to stretch it to save staples, it will ride up over time, so resist the urge; getting it flush with lots of contact points is what makes it work.

Performance on soil and seed

On the septic mound, the mat immediately stopped rilling that had been forming during rain. New seed germinated through the openings and stayed protected from washouts. I noticed two benefits in particular:

• Runoff slowed and spread, so water infiltrated rather than carving little channels.
• Seed stayed put. Even during a couple of heavier spring rains, I didn’t see the patchy pattern you often get when seed migrates downslope.

In the driveway bank scenario—a shallow grade—results were similar. The mat gave the soil texture and roughness, which reduced the velocity of sheet flow. Within a few weeks, the grass strands were poking through uniformly. Weed suppression was decent but not absolute; the mesh shaded the soil enough to keep fast germinators in check while the grass established. Once the lawn filled in, the mat all but disappeared visually.

In a small, low‑flow swale that carries occasional runoff, the mat held its own, but I wouldn’t trust it in a channel that sees regular high‑energy flow. If you’re unsure, plan for thicker overlaps and more staples, or step up to a heavier material.

Durability and breakdown

This is natural jute, so UV and moisture will eventually degrade it. In my climate, the mat held its integrity through the main establishment season and into the next, slowly softening as the vegetation took over. That’s ideal; you want it to last long enough to do the job and then get out of the way. I did see some fraying at cut edges, but once stapled, fray didn’t migrate or cause issues. If a section gets disturbed (pets, foot traffic), it’s easy to pull it back into place and restaple.

Because it’s biodegradable, I wasn’t worried about picking up plastic threads later when aerating or dethatching. That alone is a major plus.

Where it shines

• Shallow slopes that need quick vegetative cover after grading
• Septic mounds and berms where you want protection without trapping moisture excessively
• Lightly contoured swales and ditches with low, intermittent flow
• Broad areas where a breathable, seed‑friendly cover is more important than long‑term armoring

Where it struggles

• Steep slopes or areas with concentrated, high‑energy water
• Situations where you need multi‑year structural erosion control
• Very windy sites during installation (you’ll need extra hands and staples)

Practical tips from use

• Seed first, then lay the mat. The mesh holds seed in place and improves soil contact.
• Anchor the top edge in a trench; it’s the difference between set‑and‑forget and chasing a lifted edge after the first storm.
• Use more staples than you think you need. Edges, seams, and curves deserve closer spacing.
• Overlap generously where sheets meet. Water will find any seam you skimp on.
• If you need more moisture retention, you can add a light straw mulch on top of the mat, then tack it with extra staples. The mesh keeps straw from drifting.

Value and comparisons

Compared to straw/coconut blankets, jute matting is simpler and more breathable. It won’t smother seed or trap too much moisture in warm weather. It also avoids the synthetic netting that can linger for years. For shallow slopes and low‑risk channels, the performance‑to‑effort ratio is excellent. If you need longer service life or higher shear resistance, coir (coconut) blankets are the next step up, at a higher cost and with a denser feel that can slow germination a bit. For anything beyond low‑risk applications, engineered erosion control products are the right tool—but they’re overkill for many residential jobs.

The 4' width is practical for small properties and tight contours, but it does mean more seams on big areas. If you’re covering a broad slope, plan your layout to minimize seam lines down the fall line; overlap laterally and stagger joint locations.

Pros and cons

Pros
- Natural, 100% biodegradable material that supports healthy germination
- Effective at stabilizing soil on shallow slopes and low‑flow channels
- Open weave lets grass and native plants establish quickly
- Easy to cut and shape; conforms well to uneven ground
- No plastic residue left behind

Cons
- Heavy roll; best handled by two people during installation
- Requires lots of staples and careful anchoring for best results
- Not suitable for steep slopes or sustained high‑flow channels
- Frays at cut edges if left unsecured
- 4' width leads to more seams on large areas

The bottom line

If your goal is to protect fresh seed and keep topsoil from migrating on gentle grades or low‑flow swales, this jute mat is a dependable, low‑impact solution. It installs with basic tools, does exactly what it’s supposed to do—slow water, hold soil, and give roots time to knit—and then gracefully disappears as the vegetation matures. I recommend it for homeowners, landscapers, and anyone stabilizing shallow slopes, septic mounds, or light channels who prioritizes a natural, biodegradable approach. I wouldn’t choose it for steep banks or high‑energy water, but within its intended scope, it’s hard to fault.