Westek SLC9BC Programmable Light Control, White

Why I reached for this light control

I wanted a quick way to automate a few fixtures without swapping out switches or running new wire. The simplest path was a screw-in control, and this light control from Westek fit that brief: it threads into a standard socket, works with LED, incandescent, and CFL bulbs up to 100 watts, and offers dusk-to-dawn or timed shutoff modes. I installed several units on a front porch sconce (clear glass), a driveway lamppost, and a basement pull-chain fixture. Over a year of use, I’ve learned where this little adapter shines—and where it doesn’t.

Installation and setup

Installation is about as easy as it gets:

• Power off the circuit.
• Remove the bulb.
• Thread the control into the socket.
• Orient the light sensor toward ambient light.
• Screw the bulb into the control.
• Choose a mode on the selector.

A small spring-loaded side contact helps you “clock” the sensor to face outward even when the unit tightens before the sensor is aimed where you want it. It’s not as precise as a rotating collar, but it’s enough to get the sensor looking past the fixture and into the room or yard. Expect the adapter to add about two inches to the overall height of the bulb assembly. In tight sconces or globe-style shades, that extra length can be the difference between the shade fitting or not. Measure before you commit.

One more fit note: some deep or narrow sockets can be fussy with the unit’s base pin and exposed contact ring. In my basement porcelain lampholder, it went in smoothly; in a vintage lamppost with a deep threaded shell, I had to back it out a quarter turn to keep good contact and orientation.

Programming and modes

The control offers several simple options via a small selector:

• Dusk-to-dawn (on at dusk, off at dawn)
• Dusk plus timed shutoff (e.g., 2, 5, or 8 hours after dusk)

I ran the porch light on dusk-to-dawn and set the lamppost to switch off five hours after dusk—perfect for evening visibility without burning until morning. Switching modes is a matter of turning the selector with a fingernail; there’s no app or learning curve.

Performance and accuracy

With the sensor facing clean ambient light, the behavior is consistent. The porch and lamppost both wake at dusk within a few minutes of each other and either stay on through the night (dusk-to-dawn) or shut off reliably at the programmed interval. There’s no noticeable warm-up lag, and with quality 9–12W LED bulbs, I didn’t see the micro-flicker that cheaper controls sometimes induce.

Where it can struggle is in shaded or diffused fixtures. In a frosted-glass sconce, the light tended to come on early (it thinks it’s darker than it is) and hang on later in the morning. In an entirely opaque shade, the sensor couldn’t “see” ambient light at all; the control will either stay on or chase its own tail. That’s not a defect so much as the reality of photocell-based controls. If your fixture has opaque or heavily diffused glass, plan on swapping to clear glass or moving the control to a fixture with line-of-sight to daylight.

Reflections can also confuse any photocell. In one test with a mirrored backplate, the lamp’s own light bounced into the sensor and caused a brief on-off cycling. Re-orienting the sensor and slightly repositioning the bulb cured the feedback loop.

Bulb compatibility

The control is rated for LED, CFL, and incandescent up to 100W. I ran:

• 9W and 10.5W LED A19s (dimmable)
• A 65W incandescent in a ventilated outdoor lantern
• A 13W CFL in the basement

All operated without issue. LEDs are ideal here—low power, low heat, instant on. If you use higher-wattage incandescent bulbs, make sure the fixture is ventilated and observe spacing around the adapter. I’d avoid pairing this with a dimmer; in my testing, dimmers and photocell controls are a bad mix.

Build and design

Functionally, the build is solid enough for its price: a white plastic body, clear labeling on the selector, and a sensor window that’s easy to aim. Aesthetically, it looks like a small adapter stacked between socket and bulb. In open fixtures, that “adapter-on-adapter” look won’t be everyone’s favorite. In covered or clear-glass fixtures, it’s mostly out of sight; in bare-bulb locations, it looks utilitarian.

One gentle critique: there’s a fair amount of exposed metal on the bulb’s base when everything is assembled. That’s normal for screw-in adapters, but it reinforces the need to keep this inside a proper fixture outdoors.

Outdoor use and safety

Used in outdoor-rated, weather-protected fixtures, the control handled rain, heat, and winter without complaint. I wouldn’t mount it in a fully exposed, open-bulb lampholder; water and exposed contacts don’t mix. In an enclosed lantern with vents and several inches of clearance, heat didn’t pose a problem with a 65W incandescent, but I much prefer LEDs for the reduced thermal load.

As with any screw-in adapter, ensure:

• The fixture is rated for the total wattage (bulb + control, though the control’s draw is minimal).
• There’s adequate clearance above and around the bulb to avoid trapping heat.
• The sensor has a path to ambient light.

Long-term reliability

Over roughly a year, my porch and basement units remained consistent. Two lamppost units began showing occasional hiccups: a brief one-to-two-second blink once or twice a night and a faint electrical buzz that’s only audible at close range. Power-cycling reduced the behavior, but it didn’t eliminate it. The lights never failed to come on at dusk, but the intermittent blink is worth noting if you’re extremely sensitive to light changes at night.

Where it works best

• Clear-glass or open fixtures where the sensor can see ambient light
• Porch, lamppost, and garage lights needing dusk-to-dawn or timed evening illumination
• Utility spaces (basements, attics, laundry rooms) where you want a set-and-forget schedule

Where it’s less ideal:

• Opaque or heavily frosted fixtures that mask daylight from the sensor
• Very tight sconces or globes where the extra height prevents reassembly
• Exposed outdoor lampholders without weather protection

Practical tips

• Aim the sensor outward using the spring contact; a small adjustment can prevent self-triggered cycling.
• If your fixture has diffused glass, expect earlier-on and later-off behavior; clearer glass improves accuracy.
• Use quality LED bulbs for best performance and heat management.
• Test fit before reinstalling shades—plan for roughly two inches of added height.

Value

For the cost of a couple of bulbs, this control delivers automation without wiring changes, new fixtures, or smart-home complexity. It’s not the prettiest solution, and it has fit limitations, but for many fixtures it’s the most straightforward way to get dusk-to-dawn or timed lighting.

Recommendation

I recommend this light control for anyone who wants reliable dusk-to-dawn or timed lighting in fixtures with clear glass or open designs, especially outdoors in weather-protected housings. It’s easy to install, plays nicely with modern LED bulbs, and the multiple modes cover most use cases. Be mindful of fit (it adds height), give the sensor a clean line of sight to ambient light, and expect some long-term quirks like occasional brief blinking in a minority of installations. If your fixtures are opaque or extremely tight, consider a fixture-mounted photocell or a switch-based timer instead. For the many scenarios in between, this adapter is a practical, low-effort upgrade.