Fix-A-Floor The Original Fix-A-Floor Squeezy All-in-One Repair Adhesive for Loose, Hollow and Creaky Tiles, Wood, LVT, LVP and Laminate Flooring. Just Drill & Fill! Easy Squeezy! Made in The USA!

Why I reached for Fix-A-Floor Squeezy

Loose, hollow-sounding tiles are the kind of problem you can ignore—until the grout starts breaking, the tile flexes underfoot, and the creak nags every time you walk by. I’ve tried the usual fixes: regrouting (which never addresses the void), lifting and resetting tiles (effective but disruptive), and various injection adhesives with mixed results. Fix-A-Floor’s squeezy-tube version promised a cleaner, more controlled “drill-and-fill” approach without dragging out extra tools. I put it to work on three real-world issues: hollow ceramic tiles in a kitchen, a soft spot in a floating LVP floor, and a vinyl stair tread that had lifted at the nosing.

What it is

Fix-A-Floor Squeezy is a low-viscosity, self-leveling adhesive designed to flow into voids beneath floors and bond the surface layer back to the substrate. It comes in a squeezable tube with a precision tip, and the formula is elastomeric, meaning it cures with a bit of flexibility—useful for floors that move slightly with seasonal changes or heat. It’s non-toxic and compatible with radiant heat systems. Cure time ranged from about 6 hours in warm, dry conditions to a full day in a cooler room for me.

This is not a gap-filler for large cracks or a miracle cure for structural subfloor problems. Think of it as an injectable bonding adhesive for hollow or loose areas, especially where the top layer is intact but detached from what’s underneath.

Setup and application

• Identify hollow spots: I used the classic “tap test” with a rubber mallet and painter’s tape to mark low-sounding areas.
• Choose access points: On tile, I prefer going through grout lines when possible; it avoids drilling the tile face. For LVP/laminate, seams or a small hole at the edge of a plank works.
• Drill with care: A small masonry bit for grout or a brad-point/wood bit for wood/laminate does the trick. On tile faces, go slow and use light pressure. If you have radiant heat, check layout drawings before drilling.
• Vacuum dust: Clean channels allow the adhesive to flow.
• Inject until refusal: Squeeze steadily and watch for the adhesive to disappear as it finds the voids; when it starts to push back or appear at adjacent holes, you’ve filled the cavity.
• Weight it: I used sandbags, water jugs, and exercise plates to press the surface flat while curing.
• Allow to cure: Fix-A-Floor suggests 5–24 hours. My kitchen tiles needed a full 24; the stairs were solid in 8.
• Finish: Plug or regrout holes, wipe residue, and reseal grout if applicable.

In use: three scenarios

1) Hollow ceramic tiles (kitchen)
I had two 12x12 ceramic tiles with a distinct drum note. The grout lines were narrow, so I drilled two small holes per tile (one on each side), vacuumed, and injected. The adhesive initially “disappeared” quickly—this is normal with a low-viscosity product finding its way through larger voids. After a minute, I added more until I saw a slight rise in the hole and a tiny return in an adjacent hole. Weighted overnight, the hollow sound vanished and the tiles felt locked down. I regrouted the holes the next day. Two weeks later, still solid and no new grout cracking.

2) Soft spot in floating LVP
A luxury vinyl plank in a hallway had a bit of bounce. The seams were tight, and the included tip was just a hair large for the micro-bevel. I drilled a 3/16-inch hole at the plank edge and injected there. The adhesive traveled under adjoining planks farther than I expected (a good sign for coverage), so I used moderate amounts across two holes and weighted the area. The bounce disappeared and did not return. If your seams are very tight, consider a smaller pilot hole or use a secondary syringe with a thinner needle to transfer the adhesive—control is more important than brute force.

3) Vinyl stair tread lifting
An SPC vinyl tread had lifted at the nose. I drilled a tiny hole along the underside return, injected, pressed the tread into place, and clamped with a caul and painters tape. Eight hours later it was flush and firm. This is exactly the kind of spot repair where a squeezy tube shines: minimal mess, targeted injection, no need to pull the tread.

What I liked

• Flow and penetration: The formula’s thinness is the point—it seeks voids effectively. In each case, it found the air pockets and bonded without me having to lift the surface layer.
• Elastomeric cure: Floors move; rigid fillers can shear. The cured feel of this adhesive is firm yet slightly forgiving, which helped with underfloor heating and seasonal expansion.
• Control with the squeezy tube: Compared to caulk-gun cartridges, the squeeze tube gave me finer control and less cleanup. For small areas, it’s the right format.
• Low odor and easy cleanup: No strong solvent smell. Wiping fresh residue with a damp rag was straightforward. On textured surfaces, I kept a toothbrush and a bucket handy.
• Versatility: Ceramic, stone, wood, laminate, LVT/LVP—this worked across all three materials I tested.

Limitations and gotchas

• Tip size vs. tight joints: The included tip is fine for drilled holes, but too big for tight grout joints or micro-beveled LVP seams. You can drill a small hole (3/16–1/4 inch), or transfer to a smaller syringe if you want to avoid larger holes. I ended up doing both depending on the situation.
• Not a cure-all for failed installations: If the subfloor is deflecting, the adhesive won’t fix structural bounce. Likewise, severely separated click-lock joints won’t magically realign with injection alone.
• Expect to use more than you think: If a void is large, the first dose can “disappear” into the cavity. That’s not the product vanishing—it’s filling space. Top up until refusal, and plan on an extra tube for extensive areas.
• White color: The adhesive is white. On porous stone or unsealed grout, wipe immediately to avoid staining. I masked with painter’s tape where I was nervous.
• Cure time is real time: You can often walk gently on it within hours, but full cure and best results came after a proper 24-hour weight in cooler rooms.

Practical tips for better results

• Map the voids with a mallet and mark them before you drill; it saves holes and adhesive.
• Use a shop vac and a blow attachment to clear debris from holes and voids before injecting.
• Drill at a shallow angle near a tile edge to keep holes small and hidden.
• Work from the lowest point of the hollow area and move toward the edges, so the adhesive pushes air out.
• Keep weights ready. I like dense, flat objects—tile boxes, water jugs, barbell plates—paired with a plywood caul for even pressure.
• Protect radiant heat loops: consult drawings, use shallow holes, and set a depth stop on your drill.

Coverage, cost, and value

Each tube is a single unit. Coverage is entirely dependent on the size and number of voids. A pair of hollow 12x12 tiles took a little over half a tube in my case. The LVP repair took less than a quarter tube. The stair tread used very little. If you’re tackling a larger hollow area (say a half-dozen tiles with obvious cavities), buy a couple of tubes to avoid stopping mid-job.

Compared with lifting tiles or replacing damaged planks, this is inexpensive and far less invasive. Time-wise, I had repairs done in minutes and then simply waited for the cure. For occasional spot fixes, the squeezy format offers excellent value. If you’re doing dozens of injections, the cartridge version might be faster to dispense, but I still prefer the control of the tube for precision work.

Who it’s for

• Homeowners and pros dealing with hollow-sounding tiles or localized flex in floating floors.
• Anyone who wants to stabilize without demolition.
• Installers needing a compatible adhesive around underfloor heating.
• Not for: structural subfloor repairs, large cracks that require rigid patching, or major layout failures in click-lock floors.

The bottom line

Fix-A-Floor Squeezy does what it claims when used for the right problems: it flows, fills voids, and re-bonds loose or hollow flooring with minimal mess. It’s easy to control, cures reliably within a day, and its elastomeric nature makes it well-suited to modern floors that see minor movement or heat.

Would I recommend it? Yes. I recommend Fix-A-Floor Squeezy for targeted repairs of hollow tiles, soft spots in LVT/LVP, and small areas of lifted wood or vinyl. It’s quick, effective, and far less disruptive than pulling material. Just go in with a plan: locate voids carefully, don’t be afraid to drill small access holes, have weights ready, and allow a full cure. If your issue is structural or a wholesale installation failure, look elsewhere. For everyday hollow spots and creaks, this tube earns a spot on the shelf.