ADILSWIL 14 Gauge Speaker Wire (50FT), Electrical Wire,14 AWG Stranded PVC Extension Cord, 12V Low Voltage/Tinned Copper/Flexible Cable for Automotive Wiring, Lamp Cord, Marine Cable-CCA

Why I chose this wire

I picked up this 14-gauge CCA speaker wire for a living room refresh—new in-wall and in-ceiling speakers—and a small 12 V LED project tucked behind built-ins. I wanted something white that would disappear along baseboards, flexible enough to fish through tight cavities, and properly listed for in-wall use. The ADILSWIL 14-gauge wire checked the right boxes on paper: ETL-listed, CL2-rated, two-conductor red/black inside a clean white jacket, and a manageable 50-foot spool.

Design and build quality

This is a copper-clad aluminum (CCA) cable: lots of fine aluminum strands with a copper coating. That’s an important distinction from oxygen-free copper (OFC). CCA is lighter and cheaper, but higher in resistance. For low-voltage, low-to-moderate current work, that trade-off can be perfectly acceptable if you size and route runs appropriately.

The construction is straightforward and tidy:
- Two color-coded conductors (red/black) inside a single white PVC outer jacket.
- CL2 rating and ETL listing printed on the jacket.
- Footage markings along the sheath, which ended up being more useful than I expected when cutting multiple runs.
- Stranding is fine enough to be supple without feeling flimsy.

The PVC jacket is smooth, reasonably flexible, and strips cleanly. I didn’t find a ripcord under the jacket; it’s not necessary but can sometimes make long slits easier. The outer white jacket provides a second layer of insulation over the inner conductor jackets, which adds a bit of abrasion resistance when pulling through stud bays.

Installation experience

I ran about 40 feet split across two speaker drops, plus a short run for a 12 V LED strip behind a cabinet lip. Pulling through notched studs and a couple of tight holes was uneventful. The jacket didn’t kink, and the cable didn’t exhibit the memory coil springiness you sometimes get with cheaper spools. It feeds smoothly from the included plastic spool; the spool itself is compact and easy to stash.

Stripping was consistent with basic manual strippers—no tearing, no jacket smearing. The inner red/black jackets also peel nicely without nicking strands. Polarity is foolproof thanks to the colors, and the white outer sheath made the exposed sections along painted trim almost disappear. Note that the printed legends and length marks are visible against the white; they’re not garish, but if you plan to surface-mount long runs, you may want to orient the print facing the wall or use a small paintable raceway for a cleaner look.

For terminations, crimp sleeves and banana plugs took well. With CCA, I avoid heavy soldering heat on the conductor itself; if you do tin the ends, use a good flux and work quickly. Ferrules are a nice option for set-screw terminations to keep strands tidy.

Performance in real use

For speakers: With typical 8-ohm in-wall speakers on runs under 30 feet (round trip ~60 feet), I didn’t notice any audible difference compared with a similar-gauge copper run in the same room. That tracks with the numbers: even with the higher resistance of CCA, the series resistance over short, moderate-length runs stays low relative to the speaker load. If you’re driving 4-ohm speakers at high levels over longer distances, consider upsizing or going with OFC to keep losses and damping factor under control.

For 12/24 V accessories: The wire handled a small LED strip perfectly. Where you need to be more careful is anything pulling several amps at 12 V over longer distances. Voltage drop accumulates with both current and round-trip length. As a rough guide, 14 AWG CCA has notably more resistance than 14 AWG copper; keep high-current 12 V runs short, split loads across multiple runs, or step up to thicker wire (or OFC) if you’re over a few amps. I would not use this for high-draw car audio amplifiers, under-hood connections, or low-voltage power distribution where failure is costly. For doorbells, low-power sensors, small LED runs, and modest accessory loads, it’s perfectly adequate.

Noise and interference weren’t an issue in my setup. This is not shielded cable, so if you’re running parallel to AC mains for long distances, leave a few inches of separation or cross at right angles.

Safety, ratings, and suitability

The CL2 rating and ETL listing are the headline features that make this wire a practical choice for in-wall audio and other low-voltage Class 2 circuits. CL2 generally indicates a 150 V rating and flame-resistance appropriate for residential walls when installed per code. The jacket’s flame-retardant PVC and overall build gave me confidence during installation.

A few boundaries to respect:
- Indoor use: The jacket isn’t UV-rated, so avoid direct sun exposure and outdoor runs without proper conduit.
- Not burial-rated: If you need to go underground, use a cable specifically marked for direct burial.
- Heat: I would not route this near high heat sources (engine bays, furnace plenums).
- Not for mains: This is for low-voltage DC and speaker-level audio, not AC mains.

CCA versus copper: making the right call

If you value every last fraction of an ohm and want the most margin for long runs or 4-ohm speakers, oxygen-free copper remains the gold standard. If you’re working within a reasonable distance and budget matters, this 14-gauge CCA is a pragmatic compromise.

Here’s how I break it down:
- Choose this wire if you’re running short-to-moderate in-wall speaker lines, doorbells, low-current 12/24 V devices, or LED accent lighting and want a neat white jacket that blends in.
- Step up to thicker CCA (12 AWG) or switch to OFC if you’re driving lower-impedance speakers over longer runs, or you’re powering higher-current DC loads at 12 V and need to keep voltage drop tight.

Practical tips from my install

• Plan your routes: Footage markings make cut planning easy; measure twice and leave a service loop at each end.
• Minimize voltage drop: For 12 V loads above a couple of amps, keep runs short, or use thicker wire.
• Termination: Use ferrules or quality crimp connectors for clean terminations with stranded conductors.
• Wall entry: Use grommets or low-voltage brackets for clean in-wall transitions and strain relief.
• Label both ends: Even with red/black conductors, labeling saves time during final hookup.

What I liked

• Clean white jacket that blends well with trim and walls.
• ETL-listed, CL2-rated construction appropriate for in-wall low-voltage runs.
• Flexible, easy to strip and route, with consistent jacket quality.
• Polarity clarity with red/black inner conductors.
• Footage markings on the sheath for efficient measuring and cutting.
• Sensible 50 ft spool—enough for a small room without leaving a bulky leftover roll.

What could be better

• It’s CCA, so resistance is higher than copper; plan accordingly or choose OFC for demanding runs.
• Printed legends are visible on the outer jacket; not a dealbreaker, but noticeable if surface-mounted.
• Not UV-rated or outdoor/burial-rated; keep it indoors and protected.

Recommendation

I recommend this ADILSWIL 14-gauge wire for indoor, low-voltage projects where a clean look and compliant in-wall rating matter, and current demands are modest. It’s a friendly cable to work with—flexible, easy to strip, clearly marked—and the white jacket disappears nicely in finished spaces. Just keep the CCA trade-offs in mind: for long runs, low-impedance speakers, or higher-current 12 V loads, move up in gauge or pick copper. Used within its sweet spot—short-to-moderate speaker runs, LED accents, doorbells, and general low-voltage hookups—it offers solid value and a tidy installation.